76ChevyTrucker

I agree, we regularly see that vintage coming through my dealerships lube rack with a good bit more mileage and still running well. Biggest thing I've seen is pinion seal leaks on them.

I guess as long as it's not projectile pea soup vomit of the previous meals contents, it'll be ok.

Hey guys, long time no see. Circumstances have kept me away for longer than I'd every like to admit. Its been one heckuva wild ride here....first I moved, then I had to remodel the home I bought (no big deal, but very time-consuming), then I lost my job, then found one, and now the wife has got a bun in the oven, and WHEW!!!!! We just got our internet sevice back at the house, so yeah......I'm back!!!! How are y'all?!

I'd say that's about fair to middle of the road on the pad life being left. Admittedly I'm a little harder on the brakes than some people are, which will equate out to the pads wearing a little quicker for me than say for someone else.

One word of caution, don't buy a tire from Wally world. The main reason is that the Goodyear Viva you're talking about will only be available at a Wal Mart because its a special tire made only for Wal Marts and Sams Clubs, if anything at least get a tire that you'll be able to find pretty well anywhere else. (Also Goodyears are overrated and overpriced for what they are, go with BF Goodrich, Michelin, or Bridgestone/Firestone and you'll probably be a good bit happier.) I myself prefer a UniRoyal tire simply because its made in the same factories and owned by Michelin, so you get Michelin quality in a less expensive package.

eh, I've had a full set of Duralast Gold pads front and rear on my Impala for over a year and a half now and they're still probably about 45% pad life left front and rear

puppies, babies, all about the same when they're young and curious.

I know that a lot of vehicles do that, we all the time find connectors with no matches on the stuff we get in, so its very well possible that the connections are already there, but its always best to do your homework before nosediving off into it.

It could possibly be, I know that most of our DCX rides that come in at my job have KYB's on them from the getgo (I work at a DCX dealership in the service department and I used to work at CarQuest), and I know that GM uses them as an OE part on some vehicles, which ones I can't say for sure, but I know that they use 'em. As far as brake pad manufacturers, Raybestos makes brakes for a number of people, even Napa, I believe, or they're pads are made by Wagner (another majority OE brake supplier), either of which are a good choice.

Yeah, my keys go on top of the piano at the house, out of Heather's reach, so far, since she hasn't learned to climb the piano stool yet (thank god)

going off the tank comment, I'd rather keep my Abrams that's powered by a gas turbine engine (nothing in the world like a JET power tank). As far as this merger, since I now work for a DCX dealership, we've been kept in the dark about the whole idea of a merger. I see both sides of the coin involving the merger, and I say let it play out and see what happens, GM and DCX have already worked together on things in the past, ie the transmissions for the Tahoe and Durango hybrids, so I say let the hand play out and see what happens.

I'd still say that Mobil 1 is the way to go if you're looking to go synthetic for a daily driver.

More likely than not you've probably got a higher-end radio on the vehicle with steering wheel mounted audio controls. But if not, you could already have the pigtails for the audio control hook-ups already in the column secured off, but ready and able to be used. First thing I'd do would be to get a wiring diagram for your ride and see what wires could possibly be there, then I'd crack the column shield apart and see what's actually in there. If you don't have the necessary hookups, I'd then go about trying to find what you need in order to install them (since you'll have to have them in order for the wheel to more or less operate properly). At least that's what I'd do, now you could always just buy the wheel and hope for the best.

First question I ask, what is the code, have you checked it? Second question is do you get a rotten egg smell from the exhaust when the vehicle is idling? If you do then I'd have to agree with almost everyone else about a clogged catalytic converter. As far as the idling issue, it could be and idle air control valve not keeping the thottle open enough until the engine reaches operating temperature or a throttle position sensor not telling the PCM where the throttle is at idle, which throws the injector pulse width off and all in all, makes the engine run crappy. Could be an O2 sensor problem, but I'd say that it would be more noticable once the engine is warmed up and in "closed loop" (taking actual values from the sensors to control fuel/air ratio and timing) instead of at initial crank up. You could also have a problem with the timing because the engine does in fact have at timing chain. The issue with cam wear occurs at the thrust washer made into the end of the timing cover, which allows the camshaft to have a lot of run-out (in and out play) causing problems with the camshaft position sensor (which would screw up the fuel injector pulse length and timing) and could possibly cause the engine to run rough, however; this problem would more than likely get worse as you increased engine rpm. Another thing is that it is unlikely that there is a problem with the fuel pump since the enigne seems to run just fine off-idle instead of getting worse (fuel pressure is supposed to increase as you get into the throttle more, thereby making the fuel pump work harder), so I'd feel somewhat safe saying that the fuel pump is making proper pressure and volume. An EGR valve stuck in the open position could allow the engine to run like you're saying since the EGR valve recirculates exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber, diluting the fuel/air mixture (also cooling down combustion temps), easy fix with it would be to pull the EGR valve off the engine, get a can of carb cleaner and spray the valve and its passageways out really well to try to clean any carbon build-up out of there. Also if the vehicle has a vacuum operated valve (which I think that your '93 has an electronic valve), I'd check your vacuum supply lines. Other than these things that I've named, you could always have problem with a ground wire somewhere making it run funky. By all means, if you've got any more questions, please feel free to ask me, I'll be glad to help out where I can.... Also sorry about the long post, it just all came to me at once.

That's always a good idea too. But like I said about mine in particular, I'm just going to let her ride like it is for the moment. I'll get around to fixing it.