Drew Dowdell

I don't think it ever was a thing. People don't go to SuperChargers to hang out. EV charging stations should be something you take your car to while you're doing something else. Plug in while you're shopping for groceries, or having dinner with friends, or hiking in a park. Building a glorified convenience store to be the destination for EV users is never going to take off in large numbers as a business model. Convenience stores just aren't that compelling. Ironically, Starbucks had the ideal business model for EV charging, yet they've actively been moving away from a model which would make sense. SBX use to be comfortable places to sit and be a 3rd space. These days, they play music loud, have uncomfortable seating, and usually poor parking. Their goal is throughput. They don't want you to hang around. They want you to buy their overpriced coffee and food and be on your way. They don't want you hanging around to work and eat while your car charges.

Sure, but that infrastructure doesn't get built overnight and people are buying EVs today. With the updates to the 2025 Mustang Mach-E including the addition of a heat pump, the Mach-E looks like it's back in the running for being a 300C replacement for us also. Albert doesn't like how big the Scout would be. It's Dodge Durango in length.

I think it's fine for people who may not have access to a home charger. I wouldn't opt for it myself. Being able to use the Tesla network and the other networks coming online would negate my need for it.

Ready to cancel the EValanche and R2 reservations for one each of these. These are suppose to have CarPlay. Just need to find out what the tow hitch rating will be. Edit: It looks like I'd be fine. I need a 600 lbs. tongue weight rating to put the motorcycle carrier on the back. So I'd just need one equipped for 6,000 lbs or more of towing.

Pretty much everything. It would be more unlikely that I don’t have at least the right model and version if not the exact year

I have a massive collection of sales brochures that I am gearing up to sell on Ebay very soon. The collection ends around 2004-ish and goes back into the 1930s for some brands. It is mostly US brands, but Asian and European brands are there too. Most of Acura and all of Suzuki were already given to friends, and Mustang was removed from the collection before I inherited it. If you have a specific year/make/model you want me to pull for you to set aside let me know. For long-time members here, I will share up to four for just the cost of packing and postage. The collection really encompasses everything and not just the halo cars. Even basic models like Neon, Stratus, Sunbird, and Taurus are included, so if you have an interest in one of these, definitely speak up.

side quest success! I got this top case from a guy in Philly for $200. Similar online run $399 plus shipping. The downside was that I had to drive out and get it. This one has a padded back rest for Albert to feel more comfortable. I recoded the lock core to match the other bags and the ignition, so now one key opens it all. I have new key blanks coming so I can have a spare, but I’m going to have to find an oldschool locksmith who can cut it because they are odd shaped keys. The local bmw dealer is way too new and won’t have key equipment for a 25 year old bike.

Updates spanning a few days. I got the left-side case lock fixed. The key provided couldn't unlock the case all the way. I ended up having to drill out about 10 riviets, cleaning the mechanism, and rebuilding the lock cylinder. It looks like someone attempted to re-code the lock but didn't get it quite right. I recoded it and it unlocks, but something still isn't quite right with it, so I'll probably buy a new lock cylinder. I can still use it for now. I've also found the top case for it and will be picking that up and re-keying it soon. Additionally, @smk4565 would be quite proud that I purchased the proper bolts that are vastly superior German engineering. $5 per bolt for a screw with one end hammered flat. That's $30 worth of screws in my hand, but they're the only thing that works properly to keep the front lower fairings in place. BMW did want another $4 per rubber washer, but I got the dimensions of them and bought a 30-pack from Lowe's from the plumbing repair shelf for $3.97. These dashboard switches have seen better days, beyond the obvious wear, their switching action didn't work well. I found the hazard light switch and the ABS disable switch on E-bay for $25 each. I still need to find the headed grip switch. Looks and works so much better. I'm also starting to do detail cleaning in small batches. I got a set of motor bolts for the engine breast plate and alternator cover. I swapped out the bolts, cleaned up the alternator cover, and hit it with the Meguires Back-to-Black. I'm not going for perfect, just better. To this.... Taking off the breast plate involves removing the exhaust, which I'm not going to do this season, but I would eventually want to repaint it. I'm still riding it several times a week, and I should have another update next week when I get the top case.

Happy Birthday to @ccap41 and @William Maley!

All seasons until you burn the first set off then a set of Michelin CrossClimates

It was more about how much 4WD was really needed in the crappy weather. i.e., do you both need AWD, or is just one vehicle with it sufficient? Would a decent set of snow tires be enough? Remember that EVs have a different weight distribution, so RWD isn't as much of a negative for them; any vehicle with a 50/50 weight balance is decent in the snow with good tires.

Do both you and your wife commute daily?

So, I've covered 100 miles on it so far. I have some fairing bolts on order from Germany ($4.75 per bolt for a screw with a squashed end!). It's running great, and I'm enjoying it, but it is also clear that I will need to do the clutch over the winter. Luckily, there is a 45 minute step by step video on Youtube for doing exactly that.

@ccap41Numbers 1 and 3 are the most important things. Unless you have an urgent need for a 3-row right now, just wait. Open a high-yield savings account and make your "car payment" to that each month, plus whatever you might have now as a down payment. AMEX is offering 4.25% Poppy Bank is offering 5.5% - $1000 minimum balance SmartyPig is offering 4.25% - this is SallieMae And if you get the Apple Credit Card you can get a savings account through that that pays 4.5% and 2% of all of your purchases gets deposited directly into it as cash back. What I personally like to do is set up the auto transfers in such a way that they go weekly or bi-weekly, that way it's not as big a shock to your checking account. Now, personally, I'd recommend leasing a Lightnining and not buying. But the process is the same and when you set up your lease auto-pay, just have it withdraw from the same account you've been saving in.

Well, my mom is on her second or third transmission, but it's a few years older and probably triple the miles. Although it's outside your current budget range, the prior-generation Explorer ST might be worth considering. A 17+ Durango RT (hemi-powered) too. You are a mechanic's wet dream. Only do that if you can get the CarMax full warranty. They are notorious for nickel and diming their owners. See? It was a good buy! It's really the best option right now. Plus, loan rates will probably drop again at least one more time this year. You still have the RR to haul things around in.

Sorry about your losses Cort. Glad you're doing better.

What does the trade-in on the MKC look like? If I recall, it is completely paid off. The problem I foresee with something like a Navigator or Tahoe is that they can really trap you financially, especially at mileage that high. You're into a vehicle with those kind of miles, with poor fuel economy, for close to $20k out the door. If repairs don't get you, the fuel mileage will. A Flex might only be rated for 23mpg highway, but it will actually hit it (and possibly beat it), the Navigator won't. Any out the door savings you might see getting that Navigator will get eaten up in the first 2 years at the gas pump even before you have to start putting money into repairs. Every 1,000 miles costs you $164 in fuel in a Pilot while costing $205 in the Navigator. I didn't say the Pilot was exciting, but of all the 3-row crossovers, it's the least boring and has probably the best engine. It will also start and run every day for the next 100 years or until the salt kills the body. I'm just suggesting it is the most sensible vehicle while being the least worst of the crossovers. Here's a Pilot for just a grand more than the Navigator with a leather interior (easier to wipe up spills), with approximately two average driving years fewer miles. Used 2016 Honda Pilot | Carvana. You'd start saving the extra money after the first ~10 months of ownership. I know it's not what you want to hear as a car enthusiast, but something like this is the most responsible option for a new dad of two, while the Honda V6 is probably the nicest you'll get in a crossover other than a Highlander.

Now that you're in Dad-of-Two mode, a Honda Pilot is probably the most fiscally responsible, if not the most exciting, choice.

Those all seem really overpriced. If it's not an urgent need, I'd continue to wait and look. Keep in mind that in 2020, I bought a 7-year-old Avalanche with 12k miles for $32k. A 2017 Tahoe today is the same age as my Avalanche was then. What about an XC90? Used 2017 Volvo XC90 | Carvana Or Ford Flex (people who have them, love them) Used 2018 Ford Flex | Carvana Or you can stick with the ugly duckling theme - Used 2019 Lincoln MKT | Carvana Even a Mercedes GL - https://www.carvana.com/vehicle/3244088 Finding a GL on CarMax and getting the Car Max warranty would be the nicest long term option.

Well, what's more important to you? Budget or Mileage?

She ain't purdy, but she'll do. Keep in mind that while these might be able to run on regular, you will feel the difference both in refinement and fuel economy if you do. They much prefer premium. Other than that, they are fairly solid. Some of them have run into VVT actuator issues that make them sound like they have a valve tap, but at this mileage, if it hasn't already happened, you're probably good. My issue with it is the price for the miles. I think you can do a better price for that mileage or lower milage for that price.

How it started: How it's going: Funny story - apparently those spark plug covers with the "4 Valve" silver lettering have been out of production for years and you can only get reproductions with no lettering or black lettering. I knew I needed a set way back when I first bought them and grabbed them on an e-bay auction randomly only because I thought they looked better than the plain ones. I didn't realize I was grabbing something made of unobtanium.

It has more to do with the fact that BMW chooses to make its saddles out of cement, so much so that an entire cottage industry has cropped up to address the issue with more comfortable foam. That said, I’m not willing at this time to spend $800 for a new saddle. Did a valve adjustment. I also replaced the valve covers, valve cover gaskets, and spark plug covers. It looks like I should probably do spark plug wires, but it’s not yet urgent. I think these plugs, like the battery was, are original. The bike is 25 years old and has 108k miles. Ready for a test ride, it got its first drink in who knows how many years. Ran perfect for the 6 mile trip. Once I get it home from Costco, I’ll let it cool 20 minutes and then change the oil, transmission oil, and rear drive oil. The oils in these is thick and needs to be warmed up to drain properly.

Ultimately, I think this is the way the industry will go. Rivian and Ford initially gave theirs for free, but now Ford charges for them. Also, remember that for Tesla access, those adapters won't be needed for future model years, and they'll need to produce adaptors going in the other direction.

Long time no see on this one. The fairing has been incredibly difficult to source, but about three weeks ago one turned up in the UK in great condition. I bought it and had it shipped over. On Saturday, I rode 2 1/4 hours out to State College, PA, area on my 2019 BMW R NineT Scrambler to test ride some Moto Guzzi bikes. After riding there for a few hours, I rode the 2 1/4 hours back. The seat on my NineT is horrible for long-distance riding and by the time I got home I was exhausted and everything hurt. Some of the Moto Guzzis were touring bikes and were really comfortable to ride, making me think that I might like having a touring bike instead. But wait.... I already HAVE a touring bike. So as soon as I got home, and before I even got my riding gear off, I went and pulled the R1100 RS out of storage, put the battery back in, and it fired up. By Sunday, I started cleaning the grime and grease and finished up like this. Yesterday I ran around getting some bulbs, small parts, and fluids for a fluid change, but you can't do a fluid change on these bikes until they've been ridden for at least 20 minutes and then cooled for 20 minutes.... so, my next step was clear. Put it back together. As of last night: I took it for a short shakedown cruise this morning and it ran great. It still needs the fluid changes, and I'm going to replace the valve covers (I already have them), and a few other odds and ends, but it's getting pretty close to being ready to ride.