Intrepidation

The amount of driving doesn't matter, it's how the oil protects and lubricates your engine's components that does.

There is really no excuse for not using full synthetic. It's not expensive. There's no need to "leave it to higher priced cars." Also synthetic does not equal longer service intervals as far as periods between oil changes. It's the same as conventional oil. It works better, it doesn't last longer. It protects engine components better, and blends don't do the job like full synthetic does.

If you're using synthetic blend you may as well just use regular. If you're going to use special oil go full synthetic, and go with a well known and respected brand like Mobil 1. "Dexosi" reminds me of Dexcool, which conjures up images of failing headgaskets.

It's a personal thing...a pet peeve of mine when a desktop wallpaper doesn't fill the entire screen and leaves dead space, that and images that are smaller than the screen resolution and get stretched to fit, and get pixelated and distorted.

That doesn't even fill up the screen you n00b.

Thanks!

I know I'm not a body shop guy so many ocn can explain it, but how would 8k not cover repairing that? I've seen much worse damage be repaired on an older 300M recently.

Hmm, well the classic car gurus might enjoy this one, it's a `57 300C whose photo I restored for use on my desktop. Original here: http://www.netcarshow.com/chrysler/1957-300c/800x600/wallpaper_03.htm

MA requires inspection places be licensed and certified to perform it. It's $29 for the inspection, once a year. If you fail for emissions you have 60 days to get it fixed and reinspected, if you fail for safety it must be fixed right away. They have different fail stickers for each. First reinspection is free. Things a car here can fail for is...bald/rotted/unsafe tires, structural rust, lights that don't work or are not aimed correctly, suspension problems (ball joints, cv joints, broken springs), steering problems (badly worn tie rods, etc).

I don't see what the big deal is. If your car is safe you pass, if it isn't you fail. Neither of our cars have ever failed inspection, for safety or emissions. I really like the inspection place in Athol. I used to have to wait 45 minutes, now it takes about 10.

Wow.

I just realized it took out a lot of those big horizontal scratches.

Day 3: Tackled the hood and front fascia today. The difference to the hood is not as noticeable, since I've worked on it before a few years ago, but still noticeable. Couple shots of the finished areas. If the weather isn't too bad tomorrow I'll tackle one of the sides, otherwise I'll wait until it cools down again on Friday or Saturday to finish it. If anyone's interested (Olds is) I'll write a more in depth how-to once this is done.

Oh, here's what the pad I used for the rubbing compound looked like after using it on just the roof yesterday. Day 2: The trunk. The trunk and rear fascia were pretty rough. The rear bumper could only do so much with since it has a lot of deep gouges, that's something that would need a repaint. The trunk had lots of scratches and swirls on it, with not a whole lot of reflectivity or luster...until now. You can really see the difference. Next up is the hood. This really makes me want to work on getting the rear quarter finished...I may just tackle it myself soon. Since I was running out of the No.7 compound I switched to Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound today. Seemed to do a good job too.

I saw a Lancer Sportback...I forgot they existed.

Beer is indeed banned, that's one of those Starbucks energy drinks, as for food in general...that's only banned from the Intrepid.

Random orbital buffer. I'd be afraid to use a rotary buffer. and steps 2 and 3 (polish and sealer wax) of from the Meguiar's 3 step deep crystal system. Used the orbital buffer I got from CAP several years ago (not a really nice one like a Porter Cable, but it works) and micro fiber pads/towels

This is also why I like doing my work myself. I'm not very trusting of having other people work on my car for this very reason.

So as I'm sure many of you know, the Prizm's had a pretty hard life. Kansas heat, Massachusetts winters, being totaled by a moving truck, being hit by a stolen car, and now with over 200,000 miles on it. With all this added to the fact that the car is 16 years old, the paint has seen better days. The roof in particular has become very faded and oxidized. The trunk and rear bumper are as bad, but those are also from another car. Since the spare driver's door for my Intrepid cleaned ups o well with the rubbing compound and waxes I had lying around, I decided to see how they'd work on the Prizm, and hopefully bring some life back into its paint. Because the paint is in rough shape this is a project that will take several days to complete. Today I started with the roof. More to come!

The False about Cars slams something related to GM? What a surprise!

The sort of thing that gives dealers a bad image in most people's eyes.

Concordes actually didn't come loaded. Te could be had with a 2.7, clith seats and hubcaps. They could be loaded up, although the LHS was the range topper until the LHS nameplate was discontinued and it become the Concorde Limited. Although very rare, second gen Intrepids and Concordes could be had with leather bench seats.

Depends what it is, my wheels are aftermarket but I love the way they look, and so does most everyone who sees them...they think they look factory. Since I have a base Intrepid, there's lots of mods I can do within the LH family, VS if I had a 300M Special, which in most ways is the cream of the crop...although even then there's mods you can do that are factory if you want.

It's a nice easy brake from doing things like exhaust valve spring replacement. Turns out I need to upgrade the rest of the stereo system to really be able to enjoy it. I'll need to upgrade the amplifier to the 240W Infinity unit I have, then get 2ohm speakers for the doors and rear shelf. Stereos are complicated. I can't use the upgrade sail speakers themselves without one of the Infinity amps (which I have), but then if I replace the amp I'll need to replace the other 4 speakers, or the one ones I have could damage the amp. I'd like to do this though, because by doings o I'll have 3 speakers added to my system and better sound quality (its already the best any car my family owns has, but I want more, and I can keep it 100% OEM). I want to see if I can get my hands on the very best (and rather rare) amplifier that came in an LH, a 360W amp, 4760 688AC, exclusive to the LHS and Concorde Limited. There was a whole bunch of different amps over the years, but this is apparently the best one by far.