Intrepidation

I second the Mustang.

"code reads tranny, it has low miles so it may need a filter, not sure." LOL a filter... I guess they pulled the generic P0700 code (called it), but didn't get it read by an OBD II or DRB III tool to find out the underlying codes. Could be as simple as the input/output sensors, but can't know without the underlying codes.

Chrysler 300M...judging by the tail lights I'd say at least an `01. Not much info but they claim to have all the paperwork http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1944133500.html 1999 Chrysler 300M: 115,000 miles $2,800 http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1929884004.html 2000 Chrysler 300M: 139,000 miles $2,500 says minor damage to front fender http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1947526732.html

It's one of those things where you remember exactly where you were and what you were doing when it happened. Never forget, but at the same time I can't dwell on it. Jessica's birthday is today after all. Gotta find the good.

I've seen a few people paint the lower cladding to match the body. Looks good, although I like the stock look myself. I'm not big on Vent-Shades either...functional but not stylish. I'd put them on the Prizm if I could find them though. It's got my favorite interior color scheme though, and besides the minor paint blemish on the passenger side fascia is a fine example of the breed. Most powerful version of the 3.5, performance brakes, suspension, only LH with dual exhaust, only LH with HID headlights, only LH with turn signal mirrors IIRC, Only 4,500 were made between 2002 and 2004 I believe. I'd love to own a Special.

Here's a few: 1999 Chrysler 300M: $990 with "reasonable" trade, $2,500 without http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/1946911620.html 1999 Chrysler 300M: $3,2000 with 78,000 miles: http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1946816073.html 2003 Chrysler 300M Special: $5,500 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1946725684.html 2004 Chrysler Concorde Limited: $3,629 with 137,389 miles http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1943398084.html 2001 Intrepid R/T: $2,750 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1942260977.html 2000 Chevrolet Impala LS: $3,695 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1944507530.html 2004 Chevrolet Impala: $4673 with 149,711 miles http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1934302712.html Don't forget about the Panther cars. They're a dime a dozen and those 4.6s are bulletproof. Easy to work on too. 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis LS: $3200 with 141,000 miles http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1944631798.html 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis GS: $3,499 with 78,305 miles http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/ctd/1946514351.html Also don't let mileage scare you. A car with higher miles can very well be a better vehicle than a car with lower miles. It's all about how the car was cared for.

This is what should happen:

Did you check for a code? It was almost certainly P0700, although you'd need an OBD II scan tool to get the underlying codes. On 1998-2001 cars it's usually the input and output sensors on the transmission that go bad, causing it to go into limp mode. I believe they are $20 each. On 2002-2004 it's usually the valve body. Either way though, a clueless seller does not inspire confidence.

It is possible to restore your headlights to new or close to new condition, but the trick is keeping them that way. What you are doing is removing the layer of oxidation, which is the UV protection layer. You must reseal the headlight with a new layer of UV protective coating, either a kit that comes with it or clear coat after you've restored the headlight or it will quickly cloud back up. Another good idea to do is once you've restored and recoated the headlights, it to use 3M protective film on the headlight. I have it on one of my headlights, and you can clearly see that the headlight without the film is more clouded. That headlight is destined to either be replaced or restored, so I haven't done it yet.

What delicious irony it is that my transmission, at 202,000 miles, works perfectly, yet as I recall, your Aztek's was slipping at 105k.

If you want to know what the CEL is on for, do the keydance. Turn the key to accessory, turn it off, repeat 2 more times and on the third time leave it on acc. The odometer screen will display trouble codes. The last code is probably going to be P1684 followed by "done". Also, for that price the timing belt and water pump better have been replaced, if not I would haggle theme down on it, because the car is due. If it hasn't been done it should be soon because these are interference engines, and the waterpump should be replaced with it. Other than that, it seems like a nice one. Shoot me a message if you want more info, I'm all too glad to help. Edit: KBB suggests the retail value is $4,785, so I guess if you factor in the timing belt/waterpump replacement you'd end up about there. Still, I'd make sure to find out if it has been done before, and maybe you can shave a couple hundred off of the price if it hasn't. The Factory Service Manual states that the timing belt should be replaced every 105,000 miles or 84 months, whichever comes first. Also, if the a/c is hissing r doesn't work, you're looking at an evaporator core replacement, which ain't cheap. Something else to haggle with if it's an issue. If it's in good working order, than I am jealous.

You will notice a big performance jump in day to day tasks with that processor compared to what you have no and the Apple you listed, especially when it comes to multitasking. If you ever run more than one program at once, you will appreciate the multiple cores tremendously.

_ 2012 Chevrolet Aveo Previewed GM has released a couple of photos of the new 2012 Aveo 5-door ahead of its Paris debut. Follow the jump to see the other photo and details. http://www.cheersand...t-aveo-preview/

an SVT Raptor in blue...looked badass. a black and a red Grand Cherokee on my journey today

Needs more photos! Too bad about the Millenia. Had I known you were selling it for so little I might have made the rip down to get it...it would have made a good winter beater.

_ GM unveils Chevrolet Cruze hatchback for Europe GM has unveiled the first images of the upcoming Cruze hatch ahead of its debut at the Paris Motor Show. Follow the jump for details.

I actually like how the lower body has been painted black...however I do wish that the owner had bothered to paint in between the bed gap, as well as the front fascia so it all matched. Definitely looks better without the stripes.

I like the body color fascia, it looks much less tacky and better integrated than with the big chrome strip in the middle.

_ 2011 Dodge Durango Unveiled After much teasing and many spy shots, the 2011 Dodge Durango, the second all new vehicle to debut after Chrysler bankruptcy, has been unveiled. The Durango also marks the debut Dodge's new logo. Follow the jump for full details and photos.

Congrats!

I don't know how he did it, but there's special 3M adhesive you can use to glue down leather or vinyl to the surface. It requires prep wok to make sure the surface is clean and ready for the adhesive, so it forms a strong bond. It's something I may end up doing to my door panels to get the two tone look I want.

One of those weird classic car conversions of a 90's Thunderbird.

Glad you're ok! Welcome back and don't be a stranger. Get some new photos up of that Neon before you sell it!

Well if its made of Iron or Steel or Stainless Steel you wouldn't need to worry about how long Simple Green stays on the surface. Meg's Quik Detailer works well too, like I said. I used it to get the oil stain off of the Prizm's valve cover.

There's a few methods to doing it. One is to spray degreaser on it while the engine is cold, let it sit for 5 minutes, scrub areas that are very dirty with a brush. Turn the engine on and rinse carefully, followed by letting the engine warm up to dry itself. You have to be careful to protect things like the ECU and Power Distribution Center though. I prefer to do it by hand. Simple Green works great, just make sure not to leave it on bare aluminum for more than 5 or 10 minutes, as it can be corrosive...or get the aluminum safe stuff. I actually used Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and some rags to clean the Prizm's engine bay. Works great and its safe for paint, plastic, rubber, and such. Depending on what parts you're cleaning you can either spray on the part or, if you're rear the plugs on the valve cover, spray on the rag and wipe. If you want to get a nice shine on black plastic areas, a neat little trick is to apply some tire shine to them. Works nice and gives them a nice shine, for a little while anyway.