Item: 1999 BMW R1100RS

[Drew Dowdell]

Name: 1999 BMW R1100RS
Category: Vehicles
Date Added: 2024-09-18
Submitter: Drew Dowdell

 

1999 BMW R1100RS

 

[Drew Dowdell]

Since it's been so cold I haven't done much work on it.  But last month I took the wheels off and dropped them off to have new tires fitted. Put the wheels back on today and repaired a positive battery cable that I had broken in the fall.  Today it moved under it's own power for the first time in probably years.  I took it for a very short spin up the block and back.

[ccap41]

15 hours ago, Drew Dowdell said:

Since it's been so cold I haven't done much work on it.  But last month I took the wheels off and dropped them off to have new tires fitted. Put the wheels back on today and repaired a positive battery cable that I had broken in the fall.  Today it moved under it's own power for the first time in probably years.  I took it for a very short spin up the block and back.

Yesterday and today would be perfect "winter testing" days with highs touching 60-62 degrees F. Obviously too chilly for a real ride but warm enough to test out winter modifications/repairs. 

What all is needed to make it up and running, at this point? I know you got it running and rode it a bit but anything else needed to feel safe on it? 

[Drew Dowdell]

51 minutes ago, ccap41 said:

Yesterday and today would be perfect "winter testing" days with highs touching 60-62 degrees F. Obviously too chilly for a real ride but warm enough to test out winter modifications/repairs. 

What all is needed to make it up and running, at this point? I know you got it running and rode it a bit but anything else needed to feel safe on it? 

I need to go through and complete a bunch of deferred maintenance. Oil and brake fluid changes.  Adjust the valve clearances (a BMW boxer sensitive area). The headlight assembly needs to be replaced. The right turn signal doesn't work.  Plus a bunch of cosmetic stuff.

I also need to synchronize the throttle bodies. I put it on the sync measurement tool back in the late summer so I already know it is way off, but I didn't adjust it back then.  It struggles with idling until it is pretty well warmed up and getting those in sync will fix that.

As weather allows, it will probably be:

1. Valve clearance adjustment
2. Alternator belt change
3. Throttle body sync
4. General debris cleanup
5. Oil change, brake fluid change
6. Headlight assembly and turn signals (switch to LED where possible)

I still will need to acquire a new front faring and possibly a windscreen. There is some fogginess in the windscreen that looks bad and I can't seem to get it clean.

From there, I'll ride and reassess.

Yesterday I found that the bike has the same accessory plug as my Scrambler, so I am able to have them share the battery tender easily.

I ride as cold as 50 degrees if I have thermals on with my Scrambler. I'll have more wind protection with this, so I might be able to go lower.

Done so far:

1. New tires mounted
2. cylinder sync test (failed)
3. Brake pad and rotors checked for spec (passed, but not surprising because the lone receipt I have for maintenance is for new pads in 2018)
4. Tank drained
5. Battery replaced
6. Positive battery cable terminal replaced
7. Air filter replaced (had been mouse munched)

[Drew Dowdell]

Long time no see on this one.  The fairing has been incredibly difficult to source, but about three weeks ago one turned up in the UK in great condition.  I bought it and had it shipped over. 

On Saturday, I rode 2 1/4 hours out to State College, PA, area on my 2019 BMW R NineT Scrambler to test ride some Moto Guzzi bikes. After riding there for a few hours, I rode the 2 1/4 hours back.  The seat on my NineT is horrible for long-distance riding and by the time I got home I was exhausted and everything hurt. Some of the Moto Guzzis were touring bikes and were really comfortable to ride, making me think that I might like having a touring bike instead.

But wait.... I already HAVE a touring bike.  So as soon as I got home, and before I even got my riding gear off, I went and pulled the R1100 RS out of storage, put the battery back in, and it fired up.

By Sunday, I started cleaning the grime and grease and finished up like this.

 

Yesterday I ran around getting some bulbs, small parts, and fluids for a fluid change, but you can't do a fluid change on these bikes until they've been ridden for at least 20 minutes and then cooled for 20 minutes.... so, my next step was clear.  Put it back together. 

As of last night:

I took it for a short shakedown cruise this morning and it ran great.  It still needs the fluid changes, and I'm going to replace the valve covers (I already have them), and a few other odds and ends, but it's getting pretty close to being ready to ride.

[A Horse With No Name]

That looks fantastic!

[G. David Felt]

Awesome Job Drew, looking good. Suck getting older that we cannot ride long on the sport bikes, but touring does make it comfy.

[Drew Dowdell]

22 hours ago, G. David Felt said:

Awesome Job Drew, looking good. Suck getting older that we cannot ride long on the sport bikes, but touring does make it comfy.

It has more to do with the fact that BMW chooses to make its saddles out of cement, so much so that an entire cottage industry has cropped up to address the issue with more comfortable foam. That said, I’m not willing at this time to spend $800 for a new saddle.

 

Did a valve adjustment. I also replaced the valve covers, valve cover gaskets, and spark plug covers. It looks like I should probably do spark plug wires, but it’s not yet urgent.

 

I think these plugs, like the battery was, are original. The bike is 25 years old and has 108k miles.

 

Ready for a test ride, it got its first drink in who knows how many years. Ran perfect for the 6 mile trip.

Once I get it home from Costco, I’ll let it cool 20 minutes and then change the oil, transmission oil, and rear drive oil. The oils in these is thick and needs to be warmed up to drain properly.

[Drew Dowdell]

5 hours ago, Drew Dowdell said:

I also replaced the valve covers, valve cover gaskets, and spark plug covers.

How it started:

How it's going:

Funny story - apparently those spark plug covers with the "4 Valve" silver lettering have been out of production for years and you can only get reproductions with no lettering or black lettering.  I knew I needed a set way back when I first bought them and grabbed them on an e-bay auction randomly only because I thought they looked better than the plain ones. I didn't realize I was grabbing something made of unobtanium. 

[Drew Dowdell]

So, I've covered 100 miles on it so far.  I have some fairing bolts on order from Germany ($4.75 per bolt for a screw with a squashed end!).  It's running great, and I'm enjoying it, but it is also clear that I will need to do the clutch over the winter.  Luckily, there is a 45 minute step by step video on Youtube for doing exactly that.

[Drew Dowdell]

Updates spanning a few days.

I got the left-side case lock fixed. The key provided couldn't unlock the case all the way.  I ended up having to drill out about 10 riviets, cleaning the mechanism, and rebuilding the lock cylinder.  It looks like someone attempted to re-code the lock but didn't get it quite right.  I recoded it and it unlocks, but something still isn't quite right with it, so I'll probably buy a new lock cylinder.  I can still use it for now.  I've also found the top case for it and will be picking that up and re-keying it soon.

Additionally, @smk4565 would be quite proud that I purchased the proper bolts that are vastly superior German engineering.

$5 per bolt for a screw with one end hammered flat. That's $30 worth of screws in my hand, but they're the only thing that works properly to keep the front lower fairings in place.  BMW did want another $4 per rubber washer, but I got the dimensions of them and bought a 30-pack from Lowe's from the plumbing repair shelf for $3.97.

These dashboard switches have seen better days, beyond the obvious wear, their switching action didn't work well.  I found the hazard light switch and the ABS disable switch on E-bay for $25 each. I still need to find the headed grip switch.

Looks and works so much better.

I'm also starting to do detail cleaning in small batches.  I got a set of motor bolts for the engine breast plate and alternator cover.  I swapped out the bolts, cleaned up the alternator cover, and hit it with the Meguires Back-to-Black. I'm not going for perfect, just better.

 

To this....

Taking off the breast plate involves removing the exhaust, which I'm not going to do this season, but I would eventually want to repaint it.

I'm still riding it several times a week, and I should have another update next week when I get the top case. 

 

[G. David Felt]

Awesome job Drew, looking so good!

[Drew Dowdell]

side quest success! I got this top case from a guy in Philly for $200. Similar online run $399 plus shipping. The downside was that I had to drive out and get it.
 

This one has a padded back rest for Albert to feel more comfortable. I recoded the lock core to match the other bags and the ignition, so now one key opens it all.

I have new key blanks coming so I can have a spare, but I’m going to have to find an oldschool locksmith who can cut it because they are odd shaped keys. The local bmw dealer is way too new and won’t have key equipment for a 25 year old bike.