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Connect and Cruise Crate Powertrain System Rebates


G. David Felt

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G. David Felt
Alternative Fuels & Propulsion writer
www.CheersandGears.com

 

Connect & Cruise CRATE POWERTRAIN SYSTEMS

 

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GM has launched their complete solution packages for older auto's. Including both RWD and 4WD solutions, GM wanted to get these launched with a mail-in rebate for an end of the year present to all motor-heads.

 

GM is offering 12 different combinations including emissions certified E-ROD packages. These packages include a factory tuned engine and transmission with all the electronic control modules, wiring harness and other key components so you can truly strip out the old powertrain and go modern.

 

Engine choices come as follows:

 

LC9 (5.3L) - 315HP available in 2WD, 4WD, and E-ROD

LS3 (6.2L) - 430HP available in 2WD and E-ROD

LS376 / 480 available in 2WD and 4WD

LS376 / 525 available in 2WD

LSA (6.2L) - 556HP available 2WD and E-ROD

LS7 (7.0L) - 505HP available 2WD

 

Rebates are $500 or $750 depending on package.

 

Connect & Cruise Crate Powertrain Systems

 

Crate Engine Depot pricing Some of the best I have seen around.

 

Make your old dream car, truck or SUV come to life.

 

1970 Chevelle with a Connect and Cruise package.

 

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As aways, I am up for wacky conversions, but I want to know what GM's going to do to help me get my LSA RWD Sunfire through NJ inspection.

I was a bit disappointed by the prices... I'm with Balthy... can do better for less and can keep my BOP car running a proper BOP engine.

Or, if I absolutely need to have a modern fuel injected, computerized powerplant, I can put one together using lightly used parts a LOT cheaper.
 

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If I had a -say- '59 Impala, I'd be far more tempted… tho there the price difference would probably be 50% cheaper, or better. 

And I say that fully aware that an LS engine is NOT a "Chevy" engine.  

 

These are appealing pieces, but at these prices they are primarily for the 'cost it little object', 'checkbook builder'.

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I have to disagree with Balthy a bit on this, yes if we really spent a ton of time we could build a complete solution cheaper, but to have an Engine, Trans, wireing harness, electronic control modules, etc so that you can take a 90's or older auto and update it to run with little pain these are great solutions. Sadly Washington and Oregon Copied California laws about emissions and changing out powertrains so for older auto's if your wanting a more reliable modern powertrain to drive you would need an Emissions certified system from the OEM. This gives you that option legally to still pass inspection. The E-ROD package is a great way to go. Especially for wanting a fuel injection system that can go bi-fuel so it can also do CNG.

 

Looking around I found a few more sites that clearly seem to be into selling these packages cheaper and cheaper so it will just be time before more places sell them at a lower price.

 

Amazing but I found these listings and the prices do vary by up to a couple thousand dollars.

 

http://www.gmperformancemotor.com/category/CC.html

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/engine-and-transmission-combos

 

http://paceperformance.com/c-158613-performance-engine-drivetrain-crate-engine.html

 

http://www.karlperformanceparts.com/c/Connect-Cruise/17 

 

I like Karl Performance as they list the MSRP price and how much off they are selling them for. Not bad having $2000 off the LS7 kit.

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can you get a modern "built" B-O-P engine with fuel injection and all that stuff?

FI, sure. Not sure what other 'stuff' you are referring to. With FI, costs are likely to go much higher, of course.

FI is not really necessary; quality aftermarket components can handily erase FI/computer/stuff advantages.

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Smog standards, at least in NJ, follow the year of the vehicle, not the power train. Can't say I can recall someone putting a considerably older engine in a model year X vehicle- the common practice is almost always newer, in which case you are improving your emissions. High performance builds generally are, naturally, much more efficient WRT emissions, anyway.

 

Now, if one wants contemporary emissions in a greenie sort of way, that may be another matter.

 

As far as MPG, gearing plays a huge part there. I don't see that as a primary concern to someone buying a 556 HP 6.2L.

Still, no reason not to put the next generation -say- THM400 behind a vintage motor; a 4L80E. They can be installed sans computer connections, yet still give a nice OD.

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I'd just like to have a reasonable amount of power by modern standards, in the range of 250 - 350 hp and a mpg suitible for long distance travel, yet in one of the old E or K bodies I like. I'm not particular about cylinder counts, i.e. I think even the 2.0t from the ATS coupe would be fine performance wise.

Basically a fairly modern daily driver in an older body.

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^ Gotcha.
ATS 2.0T is rated at 23 combined MPG in a car about 3400 lbs with a 6-spd. Your Toro curb weight is 3700 (with the V6), I'll bet its more like 4100 with the 5.0 & options (but that's a guess). 

 

I assume you have the 5.0 / 3-spd / 2.41 gears, yes? That was rated then at 17/23 with a combined of 19.

You desperately need an OD trans in there, if so. With that, you could get a bit better gear in the transaxle than the pathetic 2.41. Then, a mildly built 350 would put out easy 300 HP and you should edge into the low 20s combined.

 

I just don't see it as cost-effective to plug a modern power train in there, what with the retro-fitting / re-engineering. The hours involved to figure things out to an acceptable level of reliability would be considerable.

 

When did the E-cars get a 4-spd?

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'82 or '83

Right on all counts on my car. It wouldn't be for this car in particular. I'd start with a car that already had an overdrive.

My 85 Continental with the fuel injected 5.0 and overdrive was capable of 25mpg highway as long as I kept it at 65 mph. That would be fairly acceptable for me. Neither of my E cars could come close to that.... And my first one had an overdrive.

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E-cars are so underpowered, I imagine they struggle to achieve 'normal' acceleration.

Even merely upping HP by 50% should give better MPG right there.

Gearing and torque. The 307 powered ones at least are fine up until about 45 mph and then they run out of breath.

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