Vehicle : 1940 Ford C.O.E.

[Suaviloquent]

Dude you gotta clean it up and maybe clear coat it. 

 

Resto-rat-C.O.E.

[balthazar]

I showed it to my mother yesterday. She walked thru the shop door and immediately said something like "Good gracious!!" when she saw it. 
My buddy's wife stopped over recently, and her comment upon seeing it was "You've got to be kidding!"

 

Gonna be all sorts of fun fielding commentary out in public with it!

 

 

After this is operable, it's time to start back on the B-59.
Any further major steps on the COE are only going to delay that car, and that car is every bit as intriguing as the COE (but for different reasons).  

[balthazar]

Leaky master cylinder is back out & apart. Dirty inside- not sure if some rubber bits were shedding or what. 
Piston seems to not be as snug as perhaps it should- so ordered a rebuild kit.

 

Tired tonight; tomm I will cross off 'chassis/suspension lubrication' from my list. Hope also to gat a look at the parking brake assembly & see if it holds.

[oldshurst442]

Tomorrow I might wax one of my cars...

Its been chilly lately so Im stalling...

 

I just felt like sharing this with you.

 

I feel shame sometimes that you actually get your hands dirty with car stuff while the most dirty my hands get doing car guy stuff is smelling like gasoline when I fill 'er up...

OH....I do check my oil from time to time and I do top off the windshield washer fluid.....so there is that.

 

Not exactly hard core stuff like you, but...if I do end up waxing a car, Ill probably feel less shame.

 

Im always tuning in here for the updates!

Great Job!

[balthazar]

Olds- you are talking about a DRIVER, which this truck has yet to reach the status of. Not remotely 'apples to apples' and thusly, no shame is involved.

 

To put it another way; I don't remember if I've waxed my daily driver any more than maybe twice in 10 years.
Of course, I'd rather wrench in rust & grease than wax a 20-foot truck.

 

Or; pick up a project car that needs more than cosmetics, and re-stamp your man card!

Edited April 28, 2016 by balthazar

[G. David Felt]

I approve all Man Cards here no matter what you do if you rebuild an engine or project auto like Balthazar or just keep your ride sparkling and shinny like Olds. We all love the industry and so that in itself keeps our Man Cards Stamped.

 

Trust me, washing and keeping a car looking show room new is just as hard as working on a truck like Balthazar keeping a lovely ride on the road.

 

Ya all Rock!

 

Love the updates on where your at Balthazar, look forward to seeing that baby on the road again. Let us know how the inspection goes once your ready to drive it again.

[balthazar]

Trust me, washing and keeping a car looking show room new is just as hard as working on a truck like Balthazar keeping a lovely ride on the road.

I can appreciate that sentiment, and I'll not argue it… but I'd occasionally trade 5 minutes of indecision in the wax aisle @ Pep Boys vs. hours of fabricating & welding a dual exhaust system from scratch.

[G. David Felt]

 

Trust me, washing and keeping a car looking show room new is just as hard as working on a truck like Balthazar keeping a lovely ride on the road.

I can appreciate that sentiment, and I'll not argue it… but I'd occasionally trade 5 minutes of indecision in the wax aisle @ Pep Boys vs. hours of fabricating & welding a dual exhaust system from scratch.

 

LOL, So very true, something very worthwhile about creating with ones hands. I love to weld also, there is satisfaction in saying look, not pretty but damn, I built that.!

[oldshurst442]

The only thing that I ended up doing is washing my wife's car.

No waxing...

 

Yeah, thanx Balthy...and MR DFELT....there is no shame in any kind of car crazy endeavor.

I could say: "I wish I could be more like you, Balthy, and do some manual work on cars as a hobby"

 

But that would be a misleading statement, as nothing is stopping me from doing what you are doing....

 

Space. Space and weather. Those would be my restraints.

I dont have the garage and the weather does not collaborate with this hobby. There are more colder months than there are warm ones for me to justify the insanity you indulge yourself in. 

Maybe one day, when I amass enough cash to make a break from this nice, but cold home I call  Quebec, Canada.

[balthazar]

I hear you and I don't have half the Cold Hell you endure. Still, my shop is uninsulated. I do have one of these but I don't use it. However my buddy did when working on the truck this winter. I want to make one of those double flower pot hand warmers tho.

[balthazar]

I've had this toolbox for about a year now. It was left behind when the buyer of my friend's 1916 Case steam traction engine bought it. I was assuming it was a factory piece, but when posted on a tool-related site, someone said not original to Case, but probably from the 1920s. Cool either way. Has a wooden rack on the inside back wall with slots & holes for hand tools, tho the only thing tool-related in it were 2 giant open-ended wrenches that now hang on my shop wall (one is 20" long) :

 

You can just make out the (upside-down) eagle perched on the Earth logo- J L Case's emblem.

 

 

Cleaned out, at least it's some storage when out on the road (for things like tetnus shots, bandages & road flares).

Anyway, it happens to fit just about perfectly behind the cab of the '40. I haven't fabricated any mounting hardware yet, but should be pretty straight forward.

 

I like it!

Edited May 16, 2016 by balthazar

[balthazar]

Master cylinder kit came in the mail 2day. Cleaned out & rebuilt the MC with the new components, installed it & carefully tightened all fittings. Put some fluid in & after an hour- no drips. Will wait & see tomm if the story's the same. Reattached the clutch linkage- had disconnected to remove the pedal assembly.

 

Left to do :

• distributor

• bleed brakes

• radiator

• start

 

UPDATE :: NO dripping from the MC overnight. 

 

UPDATE II :: Installed MC pushrod and clutch & brake pedal pads. Added more fluid & gave it 4 full pumps, going to let it sit overnight again for observation. Starting greasing the chassis, have had to replace a few zerks but otherwise it's taking grease nicely.

 

Talked about various approaches to starting it, including forgoing any distributor disassembly, running it without a radiator (only way to access the distributor is to pull the radiator) but in the end we decided to replace the points/ rotor/ caps, install the radiator and start it. Soon.  

Edited May 6, 2016 by balthazar

[G. David Felt]

Cool, so close to seeing it run!

[balthazar]

Outside, briefly, for the first time under the sun since 2004 :

 

 

 

Looked a lot smaller, somehow, outside in the daylight. It's perfect.

 

Pulled it out with a chain & my 2500HD (in the background), ratcheted it back inside with come-along. Rolled fine, steered fine. 

[G. David Felt]

Very cool looking. Thanks,

[oldshurst442]

That stop light in the back there wouldnt be legal in Québec...

 

It have to be in French.

 

I dont know really...Im just having fun..

But you never know in Québec with their crazy language laws!

[G. David Felt]

Yea the stupid french always want to buck the trend, but then who am I to really say when the stupid americans still want to hold onto the standard system when Metric is so superior and everything for the most part has already changed over.

 

Just image how much easier it would be for everyone if everyone did metric and they taught metric worldwide. This just makes so much more sense.

[balthazar]

I'd never change over. At this point I can look at a bolt and tell the wrench size, or look at a span of distance and tell (fairly close) if it was -say- 100 feet. 
I don't engage in commerce with people across the ocean, so they could measure things in Navy beans for all I care. It's no 'easier' for me, but very tough to convert.

 

Maybe someday things will settle into the same scenario as modern tires; a combination of metric & English : 315/60-16.

[balthazar]

Tackled the distributor today. No issues, some galling, some minor corrosion/stiff movement of pieces. Replaced the condenser & dual points (originals were somewhat deteriorated). Got it all buttoned back up, tho cutting the spark plug wires to length & crimping their terminal ends on will have to happen another day.

 

Here's the 'dome' (often referred to as the 'diver's helmet') distributor, last used in 1941 :

 

[balthazar]

• Distributor reassembled & reinstalled.

• New plug wires cut to length, terminal'd & installed.

• Spark plugs pulled, gapped to spec & reinstalled.

• Squirted 2 squirts of Marvel Mystery Oil into each cylinder & rotated engine by hand about 6 revolutions.

• Flushed radiator all out, reinstalled with new hoses & pipes ::

 

• rerouted fuel line away from radiator pipe.

Edited May 27, 2016 by balthazar

[G. David Felt]

Very cool update, you are getting so close to firing her up.

[balthazar]

Setback #1 on the Get Away With Murder truck.

 

• Filling the radiator- at one point water starts to dribble under the engine; the temp sender in the pass cylinder head isn't sealing. Used a fat O-ring and it sealed- not sure how long that'll last in the heat tho. Kept filling until water started dribbling out again- one of the 2 water pumps is cracked and leaking freely. Motor has dual pumps, and they also double as motor mounts. Might as well change both, I guess. No big deal- there are quality, upgraded repro pumps for $90/ea. 

 

• Called DMV- should be no problem RE registering a cab/chassis truck (a few friend were telling me otherwise) and no problem with the GVW… as NJ vehicle code states trucks with a registered GVW over 6000 lbs are required to have mud flaps. I don't want any… so I want to register my 4570 lb 2-seater at 6000 lbs. 

 

• Also learned the historic plate cars only need to show one plate in the rear, not 2. Another cool factor.

[G. David Felt]

Setback #1 on the Get Away With Murder truck.

 

• Filling the radiator- at one point water starts to dribble under the engine; the temp sender in the pass cylinder head isn't sealing. Used a fat O-ring and it sealed- not sure how long that'll last in the heat tho. Kept filling until water started dribbling out again- one of the 2 water pumps is cracked and leaking freely. Motor has dual pumps, and they also double as motor mounts. Might as well change both, I guess. No big deal- there are quality, upgraded repro pumps for $90/ea. 

 

• Called DMV- should be no problem RE registering a cab/chassis truck (a few friend were telling me otherwise) and no problem with the GVW… as NJ vehicle code states trucks with a registered GVW over 6000 lbs are required to have mud flaps. I don't want any… so I want to register my 4570 lb 2-seater at 6000 lbs. 

 

• Also learned the historic plate cars only need to show one plate in the rear, not 2. Another cool factor.

OK, Call me confused but you DO NOT want mud flaps and trucks over 6000 are required you say so why register it at the heavier class?

[balthazar]

Don't have or want mud flaps. Trucks registered at a GVW of 6000 or under aren't required to have mud flaps.

I just have to make sure the DMV doesn't slap my truck in a 7000 or whathaveyou GVW class.

I still think most cops might not know about the 'under 6000 = no flaps' code.

 

Ah; I get the confusion…. code states "over 6000", so 6001 lbs & up requires flaps.

[G. David Felt]

Don't have or want mud flaps. Trucks registered at a GVW of 6000 or under aren't required to have mud flaps.

I just have to make sure the DMV doesn't slap my truck in a 7000 or whathaveyou GVW class.

I still think most cops might not know about the 'under 6000 = no flaps' code.

 

Ah; I get the confusion…. code states "over 6000", so 6001 lbs & up requires flaps.

Got it, Much appreciated for the clarity Balthazar, so at this point, have your truck registered for the weight class up to 6000lbs and not 1lb more so you do not have to deal with mud flaps.

[balthazar]

• Ran about 12 gallons of water thru both cooling systems, flushing rust & sediment out plus using a long stiff bristled cone brush. Water finally ran out consistently clear. 

 

• Sent water pumps to dedicated flathead rebuilder, he rebuilds your pumps. Since mine has the uncommon dual pulleys, I think I'd rather go that route that chance repros are exactly the same. Pumps should be there tomm, turnaround is supposed to be 1 week.

[balthazar]

UPDATE :

• Got the water pumps back. He pressure tested them multiple times to 10 PSI- no cracks. New stainless steel shafts, ceramic bearings (?), new impellers. Repeat testimonials say this guy's rebuilds lower engine temps by 30 degrees, so that's good. Reinstalled the pumps with new gaskets, have super slight water beads… but if this truck doesn't leak SOMETHING, I did something wrong.

 

• Radiator back in & refilled cooling system to the brim.

 

• All defective zerks replaced and truck is fully lubed. 

 

• Need to gas it, and the brake bleeding is still waiting.

 

Have Sunday July 3rd penciled in for the restart, lining up witnesses, videographers and possibly an off-duty fireman.

[balthazar]

HAPPY 4TH!….. but not for the COE.

 

Did a pre-flight check; shortened the throttle return spring, connected the fuel pump wire, connected the battery…. crossed fingers and threw the ignition toggle.

The electric 6-volt fuel pump hummed, the clear plastic fuel filter filled with fuel, then the carb got misty inside… so the fuel system is operational. After retightening a clamp on the in line fuel filter; no fuel system leaks.

 

Cranked the motor… but all it wanted to do is crank. Pulled a plug to ground it to the motor- no spark. 

 

Power goes from battery, thru ignition switch, thru a ceramic ignition resister (continuity checked fine) and into the coil. Suspecting the coil may be the issue. It's a 'Ford' script coil, I didn't replace it, of course you can't open them, and I don't have any sort of coil testing equipment (if there are such things)… so hopefully that's the culprit. Off to do internet research….

[GMTruckGuy74]

I've been absent from C&G the past couple of months but took the time to read up from the last post I stopped at.  You've made great strides with the Ford. Can't wait for the next entry in the story to unfold. 

[G. David Felt]

I've been absent from C&G the past couple of months but took the time to read up from the last post I stopped at.  You've made great strides with the Ford. Can't wait for the next entry in the story to unfold. 

Welcome back GMTruckGuy74, we missed you around here.

 

Yes I totally agree that this has been a great following. Looking forward to the next chance after a replacement coil to hear if it fires up.

[balthazar]

Engine cranks really slow (by design). I couldn't find a cranking speed spec, but I can tell you the 239 idles at 400 RPM.

[oldshurst442]

400 RPM?

 

How does that sound like?

Does it sound like the engine is about to stall?

Does it sputter?

 

Does it kinda lope like a big block? Choppy kinda?

 

I dont think Ive ever heard anything like that before.

[balthazar]

Here's a stock flathead idling :

 

[GMTruckGuy74]

 

I've been absent from C&G the past couple of months but took the time to read up from the last post I stopped at.  You've made great strides with the Ford. Can't wait for the next entry in the story to unfold. 

Welcome back GMTruckGuy74, we missed you around here.

 

Yes I totally agree that this has been a great following. Looking forward to the next chance after a replacement coil to hear if it fires up.

 

Thanks, dfelt!  I've been keeping tabs through Facebook and quick stops here and there... just not enought time to post.  I'm trying to change that

[balthazar]

Distributor, coil & condenser are in Florida, at the Doctor's, getting checked out.
Thinking the coil is bad. When we tested it last, still no spark.

Heat finally broke here- had a 2 week stint in the mid-upper 90s, now in the mid 80s. Want to get back on it.

- - - - - 
UPDATE : Distributor & coil are back from rebuilder (08.26.16). Distributor was cleaned, lubed, dwell set & approved. 2 condensers sent both checked out OK. Coil was rebuilt: Ford coil secondary output is supposed to be between 3500 & 5000 V, but mine was outputting 6850.

Hope to button it back up & try again in the next few days.

Last time I cranked it, gas did leak somewhere around the carb; will be watching that carefully.

Edited August 27, 2016 by balthazar

[balthazar]

With the rebuilt ignition system back on, we hooked up the battery & threw the toggle. Electric fuel pump sounded sickly & fuel filter (inline clear plastic) would not fill up. Pondered & talked over possibilities, then decided to fill the carb manually & press the button.

Truck started & ran 2 times, running amazingly quietly & smoothly… until the carb ran empty. It did crank a bit beforehand, but once it caught it hummed nicely at it's circa 400 RPM idle speed.

Opened the fuel pump and the plunger seems to have gotten stuck. Fiddleputzed and it worked better, but still not 100%. GOing to research it. I DID get a new filter for it 10 years ago, so I am hopeful.

So, SUCCESS… even if tempered by another minor issue to attend to.

Truck still has it's mechanical fuel pump in place, just not connected. Opened it up, it's very straightforward and could be rebuilt if we abandon the electric.

 

[Drew Dowdell]

Getting very close to running it sounds

[A Horse With No Name]

10 hours ago, Drew Dowdell said:

Getting very close to running it sounds

And I for one cannot wait, enjoying this little project!

[balthazar]

UPDATE :

• Changed out the gaskets behind the dual water pumps- they were weeping a bit last time the cooling system was full. Used some gasket sealer this time.

• Got new universal electric 6-volt fuel pump. Hooked it up & turned the toggle on and it pumped fine, but it seemed to overpower the carb rather than shut off when full. Not supposed to need a regulator when it's to spec like this one is (2-4 PSI), but many people run these in series with the mechanical pump, and mine was bypassed decades ago- don't know why. Need to research.

• Began addressing the brake bleeding- had to file / bend a  small wrench in order to be able to work the bleeders. 

[Drew Dowdell]

Why does it have dual water pumps?

[balthazar]

Particular to the Ford flathead; independent per-side cooling systems. Probably largely (or completely) due to the fact the valves are north of the cylinder in the block; no room. Water pumps also function as front motor mounts.

 

[Drew Dowdell]

Cool to know.

[A Horse With No Name]

Neat to see progress here.

[G. David Felt]

Awesome to learn stuff about old auto's, Thank you Mr. B  

[balthazar]

Got used adjustable fuel pressure regulator from owner of the local old-time speed shop for $5 & installed. Set @ 2 PSI. Tried cranking the engine but battery was sounding sluggish. Plunked a charger on it for a while, cranked it again. It cranks for a while, 10 seconds or more while I fiddle with the throttle/choke, then she started and ran smooth tho rather fast. Regulator seems to be doing it's job; did not puke fuel out vent tube. Cautious throttle might've been stuck somehow, shut it down. Fiddled some more and tried again- started and ran, idled a little slower (but still faster than previously). Ran it for about 30 secs, ran strong & smooth, began hazing the shop with exhaust (window behind and garage door in front were open). 

Radiator is still out, cylinder heads were slightly warm, maybe 80 degrees when the air temp was about 65- so that was long enough of an interval with no coolant. Pretty happy here, tho of course there is still fine tuning to do.

Put radiator & lower hoses on and was about 2 minutes from re-filling the radiator when I realized I was still on 'August think' : it's going to be in the upper 20s a few days next week (at night) : I have no anti-freeze on hand. Re-fill halted.

Hope to get another afternoon in next week - almost there...

[G. David Felt]

Very cool, excited to hear when you have the coolant in and it is running long term. Way to go Mr. B  

[A Horse With No Name]

On 11/18/2016 at 11:21 PM, dfelt said:

Very cool, excited to hear when you have the coolant in and it is running long term. Way to go Mr. B  

Agreed!

[balthazar]

Fiddle-putzed today.

Changed out the throttle return spring for a stronger one. Believe the carb was not returning to idle speed. Also adjusted idle speed setting. Shortened some fuel hoses, adjusted & secured fuel pressure regulator by tying it off to the fuel pump. Started & ran truck twice again, is starting quicker, down to about 3 secs vs. the prior 8-10. Idle speed is back to spec, still running very smooth. Less exhaust smoke. Going to get anti-freeze so we can reconnect & fill the coolant system, and run the truck longer. 

To recap; 2 owners ago bought this truck in 1977. It was wearing a 1963 NJ municipal license plate, so my assumption is that owner never put it on the road, as that old steel plate was nearly rusted on and not replaced with another. To me that means it's likely this truck hasn't run at length since then, maybe earlier. 1977 is now 39 years ago. I continue to be amazed at the longevity this truck, to date, has displayed as far as it's mechanical willingness to get back on the road.

• will pick up anti-freeze tomm.

• going to mount a battery cut-off switch so it's easier to disconnect (battery is under passenger seat).

• more talk about brake bleeding, just about ready to go.

• have access to a dealer plate for temporary road testing.

11.26.16.MOV

[G. David Felt]

Very cool Movie. Awesome to see you guys working on the truck and hear it running.  

[balthazar]

With the holidays & a bout of frigid weather, the truck has sat, snoozing. Got a little done recently tho :

• mounted the battery cut-off switch, have 2 holes to drill to re-route battery cables to it.
• finally re-installed the radiator hoses, filled the block, then the rest of the radiator.

> brake bleeding still hanging out. Other than the aforementioned batt cables, it should be done.