Need some info please...

[Ravenfreak13]

Anyone have the standard features on a 66 Buick electra coupe?

[Ravenfreak13]

o one have ANY info for me??? Cuz my godfather is giving me his 66 Buick Electra 225 Convertable with 15,000 miles...it needs a paintjob and a battery.

Edited April 20, 2006 by Ravenfreak13

[Camino LS6]

o one have ANY info for me??? Cuz my godfather is giving me his 66 Buick Electra 225 Convertable with 15,000 miles...it needs a paintjob and a battery.

Very,very cool. I'm sure that the info can be found here. Balthazar? You see this?

Give this car what it needs - you won't be sorry.

[Ravenfreak13]

Im very excited about it...im planning to spend $5-600 on paint and the battery is cheap. When you get a paintjob, do they sand all the paint off? Because I want to paint it a different color.

[capriceman]

for 250 MACCO i think just scuffs and paints. primer and clear coat are options. they mask the windows and stuff and trim but thatts it. every ding will stick out even worse. If you want them to do a nice job it will cost around 1700 to get it done right and they will fill in dings and stuff.

The best way is to rent some air compressors get some cheap OD sanders and feed your freinds some beer and get the car to metal get some primer and spray it neatly on use bondo or the newer fiberglass stuff thats out and fill in dents smooth it out with hand blocks. put about 2 coats of primer on then take it up there and choose your paint color and quality if you want another coat of there primer and if you want clearcoat layer. then if you want under the hood door jams and under the trunk painted the same color thats extra too. In your case tho if the car is different color the door jams will have to be painted.

If this helps you any. any questions ask. the car i would look at some car site or some guy selling that car to see what it has in it.

[Camino LS6]

Bump for OCN and Balthazar to see.

[balthazar]

I see it, I see it!

Lessee... style # 48467, Electra 225 Custom convertible. The convertible was not offered in the Electra 225 48200 Series; this is officially an Electra 225 Custom.

7,175 built. Original base price: $4,378. Shipping weight (no options, no fuel): 4298. 325 HP 401 "nailhead" V-8.

Standard equipment: front & rear Custom seat belts with front seat retractors, Step-On parking brake w/ warning lamp, door-operated courtesy lamps, electric clock, dual horns, lower door carpeting, 2-speed wipers/washers, back-up lamps, glovebox & map lamps, Custom-padded seat cushions, Glare-Proof mirror, power steering, power brakes, Super Turbine automatic.

Power windows, power seats, AM-FM, tilt wheel, A/C, 4-note horn, Electro-Cruise, automatic trunk release, cornering lights are the major available options.

Big questions are: does it have buckets? Does it have the 425 V-8?

You are extremely lucky to receive such a fine gift. Let's see pics!!

EDIT: waitamdamnminnit: Post #1 you say "coupe" and post #2 you say "convertible". Which is it?

Edited April 21, 2006 by balthazar

[Ravenfreak13]

Covertable

[Ravenfreak13]

I see it, I see it!

Lessee... style # 48467, Electra 225 Custom convertible. The convertible was not offered in the Electra 225 48200 Series; this is officially an Electra 225 Custom.

7,175 built. Original base price: $4,378. Shipping weight (no options, no fuel): 4298. 325 HP 401 "nailhead" V-8.

Standard equipment: front & rear Custom seat belts with front seat retractors, Step-On parking brake w/ warning lamp, door-operated courtesy lamps, electric clock, dual horns, lower door carpeting, 2-speed wipers/washers, back-up lamps, glovebox & map lamps, Custom-padded seat cushions, Glare-Proof mirror, power steering, power brakes, Super Turbine automatic.

Power windows, power seats, AM-FM, tilt wheel, A/C, 4-note horn, Electro-Cruise, automatic trunk release, cornering lights are the major available options.

Big questions are: does it have buckets? Does it have the 425 V-8?

You are extremely lucky to receive such a fine gift. Let's see pics!!

EDIT: waitamdamnminnit: Post #1 you say "coupe" and post #2 you say "convertible". Which is it?

I actually havent got a good look at it yet...b4 i knew that i was getting it...it just looked at it and took a peak through the window...all i know is that it has a radioand A/C...i hope it has power windows and seats. I'll chaeck and take pics next time I go there

[Camino LS6]

Keep us posted, this car is a hell of a find. Oh, you may want to reconsider the color change thing. But, I'll let OCN tell you why.

[Ravenfreak13]

Keep us posted, this car is a hell of a find. Oh, you may want to reconsider the color change thing. But, I'll let OCN tell you why.

well...i'll see because the car is white...

[funkypunnk]

Im very excited about it...im planning to spend $5-600 on paint and the battery is cheap. When you get a paintjob, do they sand all the paint off? Because I want to paint it a different color.

You need to be a bit more realistic. This could be a very nice car but it will cost you some money to get there. The paint job will set you back 2000.00+ if you want it to look good.

Things you want to change:

Brakes-You have 4 wheel drum brakes with a single master cylinder which means when you lose one bake, you lose all of them. You need to put on a dual master cylinder so you have a backup system. It is easy to do and not that expensive. Next you need to rebuild all of your wheel cylinders unless that has been done recently. They only last about 7 years on a rebuild and they tend to go out all of a sudden. Again, not alot of money but some hard work.

Electronics-Alternator, get a one wire with a built-in electronic regulator for around 100.00. Drop in replacement and you'll never worry about that old mechanical voltage regulator, plus it'll put out 65-125 amps!!!!

Electronics-Distributor, drop in an HEI unit from the early to mid 70s out of a buick big block and you'll get 15-20,000 more volts for a better spark and more dependability. Just remember to use the spark plugs and gaps for the HEI!!!!

Hydraulic fluid for the convertible top mechanism, this stuff gets nasty over time and can clog up your motor/pump. If it does, you have to buy a new motor/pump assy.

How do I know all this? My 66 Pontiac Catalina Convt which is based on the same chassis as the Electra. Good Luck and when it's done you can drive it forever without much worry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Ravenfreak13]

You need to be a bit more realistic. This could be a very nice car but it will cost you some money to get there. The paint job will set you back 2000.00+ if you want it to look good.

Things you want to change:

Brakes-You have 4 wheel drum brakes with a single master cylinder which means when you lose one bake, you lose all of them. You need to put on a dual master cylinder so you have a backup system. It is easy to do and not that expensive. Next you need to rebuild all of your wheel cylinders unless that has been done recently. They only last about 7 years on a rebuild and they tend to go out all of a sudden. Again, not alot of money but some hard work.

Electronics-Alternator, get a one wire with a built-in electronic regulator for around 100.00. Drop in replacement and you'll never worry about that old mechanical voltage regulator, plus it'll put out 65-125 amps!!!!

Electronics-Distributor, drop in an HEI unit from the early to mid 70s out of a buick big block and you'll get 15-20,000 more volts for a better spark and more dependability. Just remember to use the spark plugs and gaps for the HEI!!!!

Hydraulic fluid for the convertible top mechanism, this stuff gets nasty over time and can clog up your motor/pump. If it does, you have to buy a new motor/pump assy.

How do I know all this? My 66 Pontiac Catalina Convt which is based on the same chassis as the Electra. Good Luck and when it's done you can drive it forever without much worry!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The body isnt in bad shape..so paint isnt a huge issue and this car has under 20k miles on it..and my godfather runs it occassionally so nothing just sits there and rots

[balthazar]

funkypunnk= >>"...you need to rebuild all of your wheel cylinders unless that has been done recently. They only last about 7 years on a rebuild and they tend to go out all of a sudden."<<

Wheel cylinders (rebuilt or original) do not common last only 7 years! Commonplace longevity is measured in decades, not years, especially if seeing even infrequent use.

>>"My 66 Pontiac Catalina Convt which is based on the same chassis as the Electra."<<

Dear God in Heaven, they're not even close.

[Ravenfreak13]

funkypunnk= >>"...you need to rebuild all of your wheel cylinders unless that has been done recently. They only last about 7 years on a rebuild and they tend to go out all of a sudden."<<

Wheel cylinders (rebuilt  or original) do not common last only 7 years! Commonplace longevity is measured in decades, not years, especially if seeing even infrequent use.

>>"My 66 Pontiac Catalina Convt which is based on the same chassis as the Electra."<<

Dear God in Heaven, they're not even close.

Thank You.

It's not like the car is on its last leg....it runs but needs a battery....and theres a litte rust which I can sand out my self and I can easily replace the chrome stipping myself....panit job is not gonna cast more than $600

[Ravenfreak13]

Can someone tell me what the gas milage is?

[capriceman]

betwwen sucky and horrible.

10-20 on estimate

[balthazar]

Hoo boy- do you really want to know?

I tracked every tankful over a 2-year period when I was driving my '64 Catalina. I have a very heavy right foot and treat every traffic light like a Christmas Tree. It averaged 14 MPG with a well-tuned low-compression (regular fuel) 389 2bbl. The Electra 225 Custom has a high-comp 401 4bbl. It should return around 12 provided you do not heavily engage in lighting up the rear tires (which would push it down to more like 8-10). There was no regular fuel option as far as I know: you will need to feed it 94 over even 93 octane unless you retard the timing to avoid detonation.

My advice?- to hell with fuel costs: you're profiling! Look at your buy-in price and figure out how long you'd have to drive a worthless POS 2-yr old sentra or corolla to break-even and enjoy yourself.

Or get a knowledgable appraisal and throw the beast on eBay. It's worth some good bucks being what it is. Bucket seats or bench?

Where are my damned pics??

[Ravenfreak13]

I really love this car,...and I havent gone to seen it yet....it doesnt take gas either??? Where do I get gas???

[Ravenfreak13]

Hoo boy- do you really want to know?

I tracked every tankful over a 2-year period when I was driving my '64 Catalina. I have a very heavy right foot and treat every traffic light like a Christmas Tree. It averaged 14 MPG with a well-tuned low-compression (regular fuel) 389 2bbl. The Electra 225 Custom has a high-comp 401 4bbl. It should return around 12 provided you do not heavily engage in lighting up the rear tires (which would push it down to more like 8-10). There was no regular fuel option as far as I know: you will need to feed it 94 over even 93 octane unless you retard the timing to avoid detonation.

My advice?- to hell with fuel costs: you're profiling! Look at your buy-in price and figure out how long you'd have to drive a worthless POS 2-yr old sentra or corolla to break-even and enjoy yourself.

Or get a knowledgable appraisal and throw the beast on eBay. It's worth some good bucks being what it is. Bucket seats or bench?

Where are my damned pics??

Ah...So I would need premium gas..because it has an octain rating of 93..I guess that it wouldnt be extremely costly...hopefully!

[Ravenfreak13]

Another question....You said that your Catalina achieved around 14...wouldn't mpg have increased over 2 years therefore increasing mpg on a 66 by 1 or 2 ?

[capriceman]

they didnt care about gas in the 60's

[balthazar]

'60s Hi-CR motors require better gas than has been available in years.

A 10.5:1 motor requires 98 octane (Research or RON). Modern fuels are rated as motor + research / 2 = octane rating. If the modern 94-octane is less than 98 on the research scale, the Electra may still ping under load.

>>"...wouldn't mpg have increased over 2 years..."<<

No-ooooo; if MPG increased by 1/yr from 14 in '64, a big Buick would be getting 56 MPG by now, no?

[Ravenfreak13]

Where do I get feul!!?!??

[capriceman]

at a gas station? just run premium.

[balthazar]

right and like I said- you should run 94 octane, 93 if you're not heavy on the pedal. I wouldn't settle for 92, tho.

[Ravenfreak13]

I wouldnt dare be heavy on the pedal...I wouldnt want t destroy the car.

[capriceman]

hey balt somthing to ponder will it require a lead addictive?

[balthazar]

Lead additives every once in a while (2 or 3 times a year) are fine. But, I never hear of people using them once the car has over 20-25K- hobbyist experience has shown the initial hubbub back when lead was banned from gas has turned out to be for nothing. It seems cars drank enough lead over that mileage to lube the exh valves for the rest of it's days. If lead additives were a real neccessity- there would be a good 6-10 products on the market and there aren't. Know that when lead was banned, it was only at about 10% of what it was before the long slow reduction process started years earlier- practically nothing.

I never used a lead additive in my '64 over the 25K I drove it, but it had 69K when I started. I haven't pulled the heads but valve recession doesn't seem to be a problem anywhere except in very rare instances.

However, this 225 has some real low miles: I would research and find what any other vintage owners are using for a lead additive product (there are a few legal, good quality additives available) and toss in a bottle every 10K miles until it reaches 50K (or whatever the product recommends).

>>"I wouldnt dare be heavy on the pedal...I wouldnt want t destroy the car. "<<

LOL- that Buick is far more over-engineered than modern cars: flooring it daily is something it's literally built for. Unless you have giant sticky tires out back getting real traction, you'll just spin and relieve drivetrain stresses out as rubber smoke.

The only concern for hammering on it is the gas quality/detonation issue because of it's high compression- not component engineering. Of course- the car is 40 years old; things can still break. You should use octane booster before you worry about lead additive.

Check it:

http://www.buickstreet.com/my66electra.html

[Ravenfreak13]

Where do I get octane booster?

[balthazar]

Try the chain auto part stores (Pep Boys, etc). 104+ is one brand, there are others.

[Ravenfreak13]

Cool. Thanks! We have and Autozone and a smaller car place within 50 feet of eachother..if one doesnt carry it, I just walk over to the other one.

[Ravenfreak13]

I might be going to my god fathers house on Sunday. I'm gonna take lots-o-pictures.

[balthazar]

All right then- git 'em up!

Find out if it's a 401 or 425- air cleaner may say either 'Wildcat 445' (the 401) or 'Wildcat 465'. Check on bench/buckets/console too, among general inspection.

[Sixty8panther]

Oh man... we need pics of this car soon.

Here's a preview:

[CaddyXLR-V]

$600 will definately not get you a good paint job. $1500 minimun for a decent quality paint job, even on a car in great shape. Changing the color will just push the price up higher, because you will need to get the door jams and engine compartment painted to match.

[Ravenfreak13]

All right then- git 'em up!

Find out if it's a 401 or 425- air cleaner may say either 'Wildcat 445' (the 401) or 'Wildcat 465'. Check on bench/buckets/console too, among general inspection.

will do!