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Posted

Hey Camino,

Found that if you put your vin in at www.gmpartgiant.com they do give you the complete list of parts for the doors rear and the contacts are available.

050 **693450 CONTACT,DR LK HARN(4 PIN CONTACT)(R/D RH SI) CK1,2(06-16)(AU3,ZW9) 92-95 01
$18.28
$12.90
* 051 **693402 CONTACT,DR LK HARN(BODY RH SI)(5 PLUNGER SWITCH) CK1,2(06-16)(AU3,ZW9) 92-95 01
$54.40
$38.38
* 091 **693403 CONTACT,R/WDO DEFG HARN(USED ON BODY LH SIDE) CK1,2(06-16)(C49,ZW9) 92-95 01
$23.35
$17.34
* 090 **693451 CONTACT,R/WDO DEFG HARN(USED ON RR DR LH SIDE) CK1,2(06-16)(ZW9) 92-95 01
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Now mine being a 94 suburban has both sides with contacts, but as we know most parts from 93-99 fit on all the Full Size SUV's.

Good Luck.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have come to really enjoy clean calipers that are not rusty. Makes a car look that much better and people notice it as looking nice but can not always put their finger on it. The devil is in the Details as they say. Look forward to seeing pictures. :)

Posted

WOW, that is some amazing rust. Awesome start on the project and THANK YOU for pictures of all the work and parts. Really appreciate it and very cool to see.

Posted

Actually there is very little rust, the pics just make it stand out. Nothing more than surface rust anywhere, and there is still a good bit of factory paint left on the backing plate!

Not bad for 214,000 miles and nearly 20 years!

But the master cylinder and driver's side wheel cylinder are toast - so it's overhaul time Camino style.

Might even do the axle seals and change the gear oil in the rear.

Posted

Assuming you used a grease cleaner on all those new metal parts to make sure the paint job sticks on the parts, what did you use and what was your prep work?

Posted

I used Brakleen (spelling?).

 

That's it.

 

I skipped it on the booster and now have some flaws to fix. It looked so clean...

 

Had other things on the agenda today, back to this tomorrow.

Posted

Falling farther in with this project, I decided to service the rear diff and replace the axle seals while i'm so far into this - it would be a hassle to do afterward. So I drained the diff and pulled the cover, removed the center pin and pulled the driver's side axle. This allowed me to completely remove the backing plate on that side, it and the diff cover will be getting prepped, primed and painted.

 

Took some pics along the way, will post when I get the chance.

Posted (edited)

Making progress despite having to completely strip and refinsh the booster. Here are the (almost) up to the minute pics:

 

 

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Edited by Camino LS6
Posted

Awesome cool pictures, I agree every time I have had to work under the dash in my 94 Suburban, it was always a pain. There is truly no extra space.

 

Question, why not paint your rotors so they are clean and not rusty? This is one thing I wish GM would do which is have the rotors sealed with a good paint job so they are not rusty.

Posted

Just the time factor mostly.  I needed this job finished fairly quickly. That, and the fact that rotors are both disposable and cheap for the Tahoe. It is the same reason I skipped painting the rear drums. If I need to replace them with new ones, I might paint them then - removing rust takes too long.

 

That's exactly what I did on the wagon.

 

There will only be a handful of pics for the rest of this episode. Partly due to needing to get it done, and partly due to there being no good angles for shots of those parts.

 

They should be posted tomorrow with a bit more commentary.

Posted

No pics today, but this project may get extended a bit more than planned.

 

I was going to let the shop do the pitman arm since it is such a bear of a job, but I've decided to do it myself. Unfortunately, the steering box has to be removed to do the job.

 

So, I am letting my hands heal for a day or so.

 

Stay tuned.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Pitman arm is done. I also did the last two items on my inspection list: the EGR valve, and the marker lights. Now, I am chasing down a hesitaion/stumble off idle.

 

Once that is done, I should be able to get my new stickers and daily drive this one again.

 

Leading suspect at the moment is the TPS (throttle position sensor).

 

I have been checking various things along the way to a solution and found two suspect grounds which I fixed, as well as very crusty terminals in the nearly new distributor cap - so it, and the rotor got replaced. Made sure to get one with brass terminals this time (expensive).

Posted

I love the Bosch kit for Rotor and cap. They have lifetime warranty and seem to pay for them selves. Reasonable for the long haul.

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