What did you do to your ride today?

[daves87rs]

2 hours ago, David said:

Worked this morning, watered my garden and then spent the afternoon washing and detailing my 2008 Chevrolet SS.

so, shiney and mirror like!

#ibizeverythingwax 

That looks great! My cars are due for their monthly wash and spray wax! I’m usually a big Meg’s or Mother’s fan, but I am really liking the Duragloss Aquawax I bought. The shine is nice, and it lasts for quite a while for a spray wax!

That stuff does look tempting though.......

[G. David Felt]

10 hours ago, daves87rs said:

That looks great! My cars are due for their monthly wash and spray wax! I’m usually a big Meg’s or Mother’s fan, but I am really liking the Duragloss Aquawax I bought. The shine is nice, and it lasts for quite a while for a spray wax!

That stuff does look tempting though.......

I will say, I use it on everything including the windows and black trim. Just makes it so reflective and new looking even though it is 12 years old with 165,000 miles on it. Built like a rock!

[trinacriabob]

6 hours ago, David said:

I will say, I use it on everything including the windows and black trim. Just makes it so reflective and new looking even though it is 12 years old with 165,000 miles on it. Built like a rock!

I love to hear stories about auto longevity.  I try to run my cars "into the ground" time and mileage wise, but not condition wise.  I try to take care of them, both mechanically and in appearance.

When auto technology was changing, one wondered how long newer introductions would hold up.  When the trend was to switch from carburetors to fuel injection, the first report of longevity I got was from a college friend, circa 2004, that his 1988 Mustang 5.0 V8 had 188,000 miles on the original injectors and the fuel delivery system was still functioning very well.

Turns out that the ones on my car at that time lasted about another 100,000 miles beyond what he had on his Mustang. I'm guessing it's Bosch that is the prime supplier of injectors to the auto industry. 

As the saying goes:  take car of it, and it will take care of you.

[Robert Hall]

Given the complexity of vehicles today esp. w/ the electronics, I don't know if I want to go for longevity anymore....10 years or 100,000 miles seems like enough.   There are so many systems in a modern car and failure points, and planned obsolescence of certain components..

[daves87rs]

5 hours ago, Robert Hall said:

Given the complexity of vehicles today esp. w/ the electronics, I don't know if I want to go for longevity anymore....10 years or 100,000 miles seems like enough.   There are so many systems in a modern car and failure points, and planned obsolescence of certain components..

Usually rust eats the car away here before they have any big drivetrain problems here......

[trinacriabob]

Here's what I did for the car "lately" - within the last week or so, given it was around 100,000 miles:

Dealer - my usual dealer - lube, oil, and oil filter; cabin filter 

Dealer - NOT my usual one, and won't be - air conditioning service and charge

Costco - free tire rotation and balance (was told the Michelins are wearing very well)

Me - FRAM premium air filter with the red paper, Techron fuel system cleaner, and a full tank of Shell 93 octane to go along with that

[balthazar]

Wire-wheeled / hand sanded 3 rims down, got 2 of them etch-primed for paint. These are for my ‘64 - if the powertrain examination/testing goes well and it runs/moves, then she gets all new brakes /tires.

Edited July 27, 2020 by balthazar

[Drew Dowdell]

When I was in the Philly area last weekend and driving around at night, I was noticing my headlights were pretty dim. Since halogens can dim with age and these are most likely the originals, I decided to upgrade to LED.

One set in.

 

Both in

[ocnblu]

?

[Drew Dowdell]

Just came back from a night time test drive with them. So much better than oem so I’m going to order a set for the Encore also. But I definitely need to do the fogs as well. Don’t like the differing light color.

[ykX]

I put LEDs on my car as well, what a difference!  Now that there are good quality LED light bulbs it really worth doing it.

[balthazar]

My 2500HD has sizable fender flares (factory). One rear one was getting loose at the front edge- turns out a few fasteners are missing BECAUSE THE SHEET METAL THEY USED TO SECURE THE FLARE TO IS ALSO MISSING.
I have some generic plastic 'plugs' that -after I found some solid metal- I drilled and tapped in; flare tight again (for now).

Need to look at brakes this weekend- have to tow a piece of equipment Monday for work. Brakes have been... feeling lazy, and the E-brake cable snapped a good 4 years ago now.

[Robert Hall]

13 hours ago, balthazar said:

My 2500HD has sizable fender flares (factory). One rear one was getting loose at the front edge- turns out a few fasteners are missing BECAUSE THE SHEET METAL THEY USED TO SECURE THE FLARE TO IS ALSO MISSING. 

I parked beside a 2500HD of that vintage a while back, bright red w/ the flares...and the left front fender had holes as big as my fist in front of and above the flare...holes in the doors, ragged rockers,  holes in the rear fenders..yet the red paint was shiny and scratch free on the hood, roof and doors... 

Edited September 19, 2020 by Robert Hall

[balthazar]

I have seen others of my truck's generation where the rockers are full of gaping holes. Mine are starting to bubble, but no holes there YET (soon). Doors and underside of cab are great. But both bumpers need to get replaced (I have them). Everything else body-wise is good.

[trinacriabob]

Got the power steering fluid changed.  It had been about 4 years and 50,000 miles since I last did it.  Feels good to refresh the car like this every now and then.

[balthazar]

Did the brakes- fronts were fine, rears were getting close to min but were glazed. Changed out the rotors & pads. I think I need to go back in & make sure the pads slide more freely, tho- I think they may be dragging some.
Parking brake is toast- shoe linings fell out on one side, and the cable snapped about 4 years back. I really should get that stuff together.
Also need to reweld one upper shock mount.

I took the valve stem insert OUT of the spare tire- the rim has gotten so rusted : A. I'd never use it on the truck, B. It just occurred to me it's possible it might blow off the rim, and C. the spare lowering mechanism doesn't work anyway!  ? Going to cut the spare down- why carry the weight?
Got a list of things to do before winter gets here... but every day I manage to duck work is because it's raining.

[G. David Felt]

SS and Escalade need a wash and wax for the fall/winter season. Rain has come back into the daily weather.

[daves87rs]

Waxed the Equinox and the Trax....

Cobalt is next

[balthazar]

Took the spare down today- had to cut the retaining bracket. So rusty it's garbage. If the lowering mech. wasn’t out of order I would’ve dealt with it yeara ago. Now I got no spare.

Edited October 18, 2020 by balthazar

[ocnblu]

Those cable hoist spare tire mechanisms have been a problem since they started using them many yerrs ago.  Especially in salt climes.  Not sure if going through the motions of operating it at least once a year and greasing the hell out of the cable while down would help.  It wouldn't help the condition of the rim, surely.

[A Horse With No Name]

On 10/18/2020 at 6:19 AM, ocnblu said:

Those cable hoist spare tire mechanisms have been a problem since they started using them many yerrs ago.  Especially in salt climes.  Not sure if going through the motions of operating it at least once a year and greasing the hell out of the cable while down would help.  It wouldn't help the condition of the rim, surely.

Its why I have AAA. When I had a company van with a spare tire like this, someon else spent two hours getting it free when it was iced up in sub zero conditions. My wife brought a hot chocolate and a sandwich and I sat with her in our heated car and watched. 

On 10/16/2020 at 1:28 PM, David said:

SS and Escalade need a wash and wax for the fall/winter season. Rain has come back into the daily weather.

SS is probably my favorite ride of yours. 

On 10/15/2020 at 4:52 PM, trinacriabob said:

Got the power steering fluid changed.  It had been about 4 years and 50,000 miles since I last did it.  Feels good to refresh the car like this every now and then.

Got the timing belt changed on the aveo, it runs much better. replaced the serpentine belt as well. 

On 9/18/2020 at 11:31 PM, balthazar said:

I have seen others of my truck's generation where the rockers are full of gaping holes. Mine are starting to bubble, but no holes there YET (soon). Doors and underside of cab are great. But both bumpers need to get replaced (I have them). Everything else body-wise is good.

They do that religiously here in Ohio. thankfully I think I have a good decade or so on the Ranger before it starts. 

On 10/15/2020 at 8:00 PM, balthazar said:

Did the brakes- fronts were fine, rears were getting close to min but were glazed. Changed out the rotors & pads. I think I need to go back in & make sure the pads slide more freely, tho- I think they may be dragging some.
Parking brake is toast- shoe linings fell out on one side, and the cable snapped about 4 years back. I really should get that stuff together.
Also need to reweld one upper shock mount.

I took the valve stem insert OUT of the spare tire- the rim has gotten so rusted : A. I'd never use it on the truck, B. It just occurred to me it's possible it might blow off the rim, and C. the spare lowering mechanism doesn't work anyway!  ? Going to cut the spare down- why carry the weight?
Got a list of things to do before winter gets here... but every day I manage to duck work is because it's raining.

I don't even need ran to duck work, usually it's just a good book to read, and a warm cat in my lap. Work is done for the day. 

[G. David Felt]

Last night I washed all 3 auto's, SS, Escalade and Suburban. So they are all very clean, was a long but worthwhile 6hrs for a deep clean. This week is all sunshine in the greater PNW and into the mid 70's by this weekend.

This morning before I had to jump on back to back calls, I used my IBIZWAX waterless wash/wax to get the auto ready for a deeper waxing on the Suburban. So looking good, now I can put the IBIZWAX wax covering on it to have it protected for the rest of spring and summer. Then onto the SS and Escalade.

[ykX]

@David  Any reason you are using this company wax products?

I am going to do it sometime soon, but never did wax before.

[G. David Felt]

8 minutes ago, ykX said:

@David  Any reason you are using this company wax products?

I am going to do it sometime soon, but never did wax before.

IBIZWAX is sold in a box package at Costco which also had soap for washing, the waterless wash/wax spray that I use to do an initial cleaning of the auto, their Everything Wax, Sheen spray for the inside of the auto and then the Headlight and metal polish cleaning material. Inside Costco it is $49.99

As such, I found it convenient to buy and use and been happy with the results. I am sure the online product offer if you want it delivered to your home to be good too I am sure. See below for both instore details and online that Costco offers.

IBIZ World Class Detailing Products | Car Detailer Products| Wax Direct

 

Online from Costco, they have an alternative box'd package of auto detailing for $59.99

Meguiar's Gold Class Car Detailing Kit (costco.com)

[ykX]

Replaced front and rear rotors and pads on my daily.  Really was due as you can see from the picture.  Unfortunately, rockauto sent me wrong rear pads and I discovered that when I already disassembled the rear brakes.  Had to run to local auto store to pick up whatever they had.  What is really unfortunate is that I bought the parts more than 30 days ago (just couldn't find time to install) and now I can't get refund for the wrong parts.  I guess live and learn.

(For some reason pictures posted upside down)

Edited May 17, 2021 by ykX

[G. David Felt]

Washed n waxed the SS today. Love this product, makes the finish like a mirror.

[trinacriabob]

I took the car in for a transmission fluid and filter change at the dealership I like to use.  (This was the drop and drain variety, which enabled them to put in a new filter and gasket, as well as check the pan for possible shavings and unwelcome residues and sediment.)

This was the 4th time I've done this.  I do it at about 30,000 mile increments.

- - - - -

So, in addition to putting up this post, I'll try to make it "educational:"

1.)  When you do the service this way, it's different from a flush, because transmission fluid in the torque converter remains in there.  However, the majority of it is drained out.

2.) Doing it this "old school" way is said to be easier on the seals and other components within the transmission.  A B-O-P advisor approaching retirement in the 2000s (!) told me that, if starting out with a reliable transmission, doing a "drop and drain" with a filter every 30,000 miles, even if some old fluid is in the torque converter, will probably allow the transmission to last as long as a similarly reliable engine.  That's because the fluid will never get dirty "enough."  This is what I did with my last car, and the entire powertrain racked up over 270,000 original miles.

3.)  There are times when you can't do it this way because some units are sealed and CVTs can only be serviced via the flush (or fluid exchange).

4.)  There are times when you should do this and not the flush.  That's when you don't know the service history of the car, or the transmission hasn't been serviced, which may later cause the transmission to malfunction ... or fail.  You might be in a situation where the transmission fluid is dirty, dark, and full of contaminants and, all of a sudden, it has new fluid and cleansers assaulting it, the seals, and all that.  I was once at the Grease Monkey chain's store in Bothell, WA (yes, Bothell, WA) because they used Castrol oil and they were never pushy, and there was a lady there with a W-body Cutlass Supreme.  So, in talking about our cars, she told me how she went to one of those quick lube places, agreed to have them flush out the transmission that had never been serviced in over 150,000 miles, and the transmission failed shortly thereafter.  I didn't say a word.*

* it would be interesting, and depressing, to know the annual dollar value of needless and even harmful auto services that are sold to women, and even some men, who don't understand how cars work such that they can't "fight" back

Edited December 4, 2021 by trinacriabob

[balthazar]

30K miles trans filter replacement is bonkers-frequent, IMO. 
I've never ever heard anyone recommend (or perform) at such short intervals.

I do agree with your take on flush vs. drop & drain.

[G. David Felt]

Knowing that my full-size SUVs seem to go 300,000 miles plus following the OEM recommendation for Service makes spending money on a 30K mile service seem crazy IMHO also like @balthazar has stated. The place I have used for Transmission service does the Drop n Drain and breaks open the filter to see if any or what size metal bits are in the filter. Then while it is open, they flush the Torque converter using a flush machine. Pretty interesting to watch as you see every little bit of old trans fluid come out. Seems to be working for me and will stick with the schedule of service.

Discovered one interesting thing today as I have been looking at the $40 to $100 headlight restoration kits as the SS had the right-side light fogged and the left side was starting to get a little fogging.

Wife was getting together with her small bubble of girlfriends for a cookie making day. So I wanted to ensure she had good visibility as the rain has been crazy here lately, the last month and now they are calling for snow. So cleaned the windshield and rainX it as it keeps it so clear much longer than without.

So I had my RainX rag and decided to wipe the headlights. WOW was I surprised by the amount of crude it took off, so I used a bit more RainX and cleaned both headlights. No fogging and very clear now. Was very bright when she left.

[trinacriabob]

@balthazar Assuming I do this every 30,000 miles and it costs $ 169 each time, doing this 4 times will cost me a total of $ 676.  That would theoretically take me up to 149,999 miles before I'd do it again.

I have always had pale pink fluid on the transmission dipstick.  I know other intervals are possible.  However, I sleep a little better at night sticking to this routine.  Spending less than $ 700 over the span of 10+ years on your transmission's "health" seems better than, say, spending $ 200 on a flush at 100,000 and then having the unit quit at 150,000 miles, requiring over $ 2K to fix or R&R.  I'm of the school of thought that I do not want the valve covers off the engine nor the transmission pulled out of the car while I own it.  I like things how they were put together in the factory, and with all the sophisticated provisions to make sure the tolerances were right and tight.

@David  Yes, the service advisor and I discussed that that can be done.  It would be close to $ 400.  So far, I have done: drain and drop, drain and drop, fluid exchange, and drain and drop.  With over 100,000 miles and the vehicle's age, I will not be doing another fluid exchange.

At what interval are you having the above described work done?

[G. David Felt]

1 hour ago, trinacriabob said:

@balthazar Assuming I do this every 30,000 miles and it costs $ 169 each time, doing this 4 times will cost me a total of $ 676.  That would theoretically take me up to 149,999 miles before I'd do it again.

I have always had pale pink fluid on the transmission dipstick.  I know other intervals are possible.  However, I sleep a little better at night sticking to this routine.  Spending less than $ 700 over the span of 10+ years on your transmission's "health" seems better than, say, spending $ 200 on a flush at 100,000 and then having the unit quit at 150,000 miles, requiring over $ 2K to fix or R&R.  I'm of the school of thought that I do not want the valve covers off the engine nor the transmission pulled out of the car while I own it.  I like things how they were put together in the factory, and with all the sophisticated provisions to make sure the tolerances were right and tight.

@David  Yes, the service advisor and I discussed that that can be done.  It would be close to $ 400.  So far, I have done: drain and drop, drain and drop, fluid exchange, and drain and drop.  With over 100,000 miles and the vehicle's age, I will not be doing another fluid exchange.

At what interval are you having the above described work done?

Been keeping to a 75K miles and it seems to work for me.

[balthazar]

 

2 hours ago, trinacriabob said:

I like things how they were put together in the factory, and with all the sophisticated provisions to make sure the tolerances were right and tight.

Where does the factory trans service interval recommendations fit into the above? 

[trinacriabob]

1 hour ago, balthazar said:

Where does the factory trans service interval recommendations fit into the above? 

It doesn't!

They want you to service it every 100,000 miles, unless driven under more severe conditions.

Just like planned obsolescence, they want your car to break down, so you bring it in to dealers to give them business or buy a new car.

If I recall correctly, the oil and filter change interval for our family's '70s and '80s Cutlass Supremes, which I got as hand-me downs, was 7,500 miles.  And this was with conventional oil.  That was absurd.  I've seen conventional oil in rental cars at 5,000 miles and it's pitch black!  It was always 3,000 miles or less for us, with the break-in oil change at 1,000 to 1,500 miles to boot.

Edited December 4, 2021 by trinacriabob

[balthazar]

B-b-but if dealerships make the bulk of their income in the service department AND OEM's prefer to avoid mass warranty costs... wouldn't GM lean towards recommending -say- 50K mile filter changes??

Keep in mind one cannot compare engine oil & trans oil lifespans. A transmission is a closed hydraulic system, but an IC engine sees air & gasoline contaminates introduced into the oil, plus significantly higher temperatures on average. I'm with you on earlier-than-recommended oil changes, but with the trans it's a waste of time/money, technically. 

[trinacriabob]

They're trying to impart that their cars are low maintenance *while so many people are cursing the electronic gremlins of newer cars, for example, and the cost to repair them* when we know they're not.  They make a pretty penny from fixing that sort of stuff.  I now know an electrical shop in the area that has done some minor fixes for me at lower prices.

They told us unleaded fuel would make our plugs last longer.  It did.  But the question is how much longer.  They quantified it with the change to iridium plugs.  Do I want to push out the spark plug change that far, and over a decade?  If a major component, such as as an ICM or coils goes out before 100,000 miles, it's cheaper to have it done at the same time.

I just priced this transmission, out of curiosity, on this web site.  This amount does not include taxes, core, freight, and installation. 

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-trans-axle-17804441?c=Zz1hdXRvbWF0aWMtdHJhbnNtaXNzaW9uJnM9YXV0b21hdGljLXRyYW5zbWlzc2lvbiZsPTImbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT1idWljayZvPWxhY3Jvc3NlJnk9MjAwOCZ0PWN4JmU9My04bC12Ni1nYXM%3D

Since an OHV engine is easier to understand, I could get more relaxed about that.  Since an automatic transmission, based on the cut-away diagram, has all this minutia, I'd rather play it safe.  I already did the math earlier.  I don't know what I want to do with my car ... and when.

Edited December 5, 2021 by trinacriabob

[balthazar]

5 hours ago, trinacriabob said:

Just like planned obsolescence, they want your car to break down, so you bring it in to dealers to give them business or buy a new car.

Just on the transmission tho? Why not push oil changes up to 50K miles, in the same vein? Engine replacements are WAY more expensive than that of a transmission....

I'm not seeing this 'selective part death wish' theory holding much water, despite the assurances of the GM advisor you once spoke to. 

I never had a transmission go out on me. 

[G. David Felt]

Japan gives you no choice, every 50k miles you have to replace the engine in the auto due to emission requirements. No old engines allowed, and you can find many a good deal on those working engines exported for sale here.

[balthazar]

4 hours ago, David said:

every 50 miles you have to replace the engine

huh?

[G. David Felt]

1 hour ago, balthazar said:

huh?

LOL, meant 50,000 or 50K

Here is a company that resells these engines due to the laws in Japan and explain it well.

Reasons why JDM engines are low mileage. JDM Engines in California, Florida, Georgia, Colorado. (usedjapanmotors.com)

Shanken law ensures only newer vehicles on road. This makes it possible for vehicles older than three years with low miles to be sold as a used car for export or to be dismantled for auto parts. Shanken law is the main reason why engines imported from Japan have extremely low mileage.

[trinacriabob]

On 12/5/2021 at 12:00 AM, balthazar said:

I never had a transmission go out on me. 

I've had 2 go out.  It is a weird feeling.  Except for throwing rods or something else that jarring, engines seem to be better at warning their owners.

It happened on the first 2 cars.

The first failure was on the '76 Cutlass Supreme I got from my parents that lasted 16 years.  It went out at ~116,000 miles.  Sadly, it was a THM 350. Serviced at good (crazy, to some) intervals.  The culprit was heat.  This car ran hot.  And they couldn't figure out why.  We changed the fan clutch.  Finally, with taking the thermostat to 180 instead of 195, it seemed to do the trick, especially with a new transmission in there.  The car ran a little cool, but fired well and shifted well, and drove the big American triangle from L.A. to N.Y.C. to Miami and back without problems.

The second failure was on the '84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  I got it when it had 125,000 miles.  An individual in my family who seemingly wasn't on top of car maintenance probably didn't change the transmission fluid.  It was a pink brown color.  It had a THM 200 (you know, 5h!t).  It failed at 133,000 miles.  It happened almost instantly.  It wouldn't shift above 2nd gear.  I had this Portuguese guy who had a transmission shop swap it out for a THM 350 lock-up.  Only $ 125 or $ 150 more.  I couldn't own another THM 200 again.  

I got it back and it shifted too firmly.  I think he calibrated it that way.  I told him that if felt too firm.  It went up on the rack, it was down 10 minutes later, and it shifted like a dream.  I have no clue what the adjustment might have been.

The last 2 cars - 4T60 and 4T65-e transmissions - where I have been the first owner and serviced at good (crazy, to some) intervals have been great transmissions so far, with beautiful shift quality and consistent shift points.

Edited December 8, 2021 by trinacriabob

[Robert Hall]

The transmission on my old Jeep was starting to slip on upshifts back in early 2017, at over 16 years old and 170k I knew it was not long for this world and made no sense to spend further on it..that was when I decided to trade for my '14.   Other that that, I've never had transmission issues in 35 years of driving... 4 cars and 1 SUV w/ manuals, 4 cars w/ automatics and 2 SUVs w/ automatics.

Edited December 8, 2021 by Robert Hall

[balthazar]

On 12/5/2021 at 12:00 AM, balthazar said:

I never had a transmission go out on me. 

I take that back; I forgot ~
My '64 Catalina (Roto-Hydramatic 375 3-spd) dumped it's fluid in the inspection station line in '92. I bought it with 69K miles on it in '91, had the trans reconditioned, and drove it again for a total of 25K miles.

The Allison 1000 in my '04 was great -zero issues, when I sold it this year at 205K. My buddy bought it, he's driving it as his main truck. Put 1000 miles on it in roughly a week- knowing him that's going to be his regular mileage pace.

So

2 hours ago, trinacriabob said:

It went out at ~116,000 miles.

The better trans with (crazy to some) better maintenance gave out before the 5h!t trans with poor maintenance. Interesting, if anecdotal...

[trinacriabob]

12 hours ago, balthazar said:

So

The better trans with (crazy to some) better maintenance gave out before the 5h!t trans with poor maintenance. Interesting, if anecdotal...

Well, we're talking about a longevity difference of only 17,000 miles ... and not knowing the relative gravity of how overheating or not servicing these units would have affected their service life.  For an analysis like this, I think a bona fide rocket scientist might be needed.   Not only that, both of the vehicles in question were Oldsmobiles.

[G. David Felt]

9 hours ago, trinacriabob said:

Well, we're talking about a longevity difference of only 17,000 miles ... and not knowing the relative gravity of how overheating or not servicing these units would have affected their service life.  For an analysis like this, I think a bona fide rocket scientist might be needed.   Not only that, both of the vehicles in question were Oldsmobiles.

Would be interesting to have broken open the trans filter and looked inside to see what all was captured. I find the filters speak volumes about what caused the death of the trans.

Reminds me of the only Trans I had gone bad on me in my 1994 suburban, just before the warranty was over at 75K miles, the transmission blew. Had it towed to my local GMC where I bought it new, and I was shown by the mechanic the filter that had captured some rare metal casting waste and a piece that was in the actual gear area that clearly got missed in production and ended up causing it to self-destruct. Lucky for me GM no questions asked honored the warranty and replaced the trans. That trans is still in my Suburban with 225,000 miles on it and I just follow the OEM scheduled maintenance.

[trinacriabob]

I did this.

I used to pay the GM dealer about $ 40 to do this every few years.  This time around, I paid less than $ 25 for this Bosch filter and $ 0 for labor by doing it myself.*  It is accessed from the engine bay, even though it is indeed behind the glove box.  You get to look straight into the blower motor as you do this!

*proof that YouTube is your friend

[Robert Hall]

My '14 JGC Limited hit 65k yesterday.  Was at the dealer this morning getting the computer flashed so the the trailer wiring will work.  Apparently, FCA didn't enable trailer wiring w/ the factory towing package from the factory...not sure why, maybe because so few people actually *tow*? 

Another few days of trips to the mud farm, so probably another 1000 miles over the next week.   To celebrate the end of this drama, I plan to take it to my local detailer next week for a thorough cleaning, wax, and interior clean and detailing.  Also plan later this month to go get side steps installed (my 5' 2" sister hates how high it sits) and some sheepskin seat covers...leather in summer is no bueno...

Edited July 5, 2022 by Robert Hall

[G. David Felt]

6 hours ago, Robert Hall said:

My '14 JGC Limited hit 65k yesterday.  Was at the dealer this morning getting the computer flashed so the the trailer wiring will work.  Apparently, FCA didn't enable trailer wiring w/ the factory towing package from the factory...not sure why, maybe because so few people actually *tow*? 

Another few days of trips to the mud farm, so probably another 1000 miles over the next week.   To celebrate the end of this drama, I plan to take it to my local detailer next week for a thorough cleaning, wax, and interior clean and detailing.  Also plan later this month to go get side steps installed (my 5' 2" sister hates how high it sits) and some sheepskin seat covers...leather in summer is no bueno...

Very cool and weird that the trailer wiring would not work.

Very cool, look forward to a picture of your JGC once it is all detailed and looking pretty. Agree leather in hot weather sucks. OUCH

Would love to see a picture of you and your sister as she sounds very tiny next to you.

Have a Great week Robert.

[Robert Hall]

6 hours ago, David said:

 

Would love to see a picture of you and your sister as she sounds very tiny next to you.

Have a Great week Robert.

Thanks..looking forward to getting back to some sort of normalcy.    Here is a pic of Lucy and I about 3 years ago at the Cleveland Symphony.   We joke about being twins, though we are 13 years apart..very similar personalities and tastes, both in technology.    Our birthdays always fall on the same day of the week, 3 weeks apart. 

Edited July 6, 2022 by Robert Hall

[G. David Felt]

13 hours ago, Robert Hall said:

Thanks..looking forward to getting back to some sort of normalcy.    Here is a pic of Lucy and I about 3 years ago at the Cleveland Symphony.   We joke about being twins, though we are 13 years apart..very similar personalities and tastes, both in technology.    Our birthdays always fall on the same day of the week, 3 weeks apart. 

Awesome, thank you for sharing. Great picture of you both, so glad you have similar interests and can enjoy spending time together. I am like that with my oldest sister, we get along real well and have similar interest too.

[Robert Hall]

Been cleaning out my Jeep today, all the stuff in there from 5 months of mud farming...heavy tow rope, string trimmer, shop vac, all sorts of tools, 200 feet of extension cord, flash lights, lanterns, etc.   So grubby...taking it to the local fancy car wash for wash, wax and interior detailing this afternoon... 

Hope to get back to the normal 50-100 miles per week instead of almost 1000 per week...