Your Project Plans for this Year

[Intrepidation]

Well with Spring kinda sorta here its time to get down to business. Lots to do for both cars. This thread will serve as a reference for part numbers and information as I get them.

For the Prizm:

Change the t-stat and do a coolant flush, check hoses:

• Stant Superstat, Part No. 45758
  
• Felpro Thermostat Gasket, Part No. 35592
  
• Felpro Thermostat Seal, Part No. 35292
  
• Antifreeze
  

New brakes all around:

I have no idea when the brakes were done last, but I do know not withing the last 6 years. Front rotors are warped and parking brake shoes barely hold the car in place on an incline.

• Wagner ThermoQuiet Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set Part No. QC562
  
• Wagner Brake Shoe Set Part No. PAB551
  
• Wagner Disc Brake Rotors Part No. BD125326
  

or

• Raybestos PG Plus Professional Grade Disc Brake Rotors Part No. 96354
  
• Wagner Brake Drum Part No. BD125327
  
• USA Brake Front Hardware Kit Part No. 15648A
  
• USA Brake Rear Hardware Kit Part No. 17149
  

New struts/springs:

Haven't done and suspension components before, but it doesn't look too hard. Might do the fronts at the same time or wait on them, but the rears definitely need to be done. Car sags a little in back. Gonna go with Monroe Quick Struts. Good value and no assembly required! They use Sensa-Trac struts which are good quality struts, so I hear.

• Monroe Quick-Strut Part No. 171954
  
• Monroe Quick-Strut Part No. 171953
  

Amazon has them for $129.99 and $125.31 respectively, vs $206.99 at Advance. Pretty sweet deal.

New Exhaust manifold:

• Dorman Exhaust Manifold Part No. 674164
  

Body Work:

I'd like to get the rear quarter taken care of finally, and fix that minor rocker rust before it can get worse.

Intrepid

First and foremost is a much more basic problem: new battery. Old one finally died. RIP.

• AutoCraft Gold Battery, Group Size 34, 700 CCA Part No. 34-2
  

Next up is a PCM, out of a 2000 Intrepid R/T without the Sentry Key Immobilizer Module. Just have to find one in a yard.

The comes the fun stuff...

A/C Revamp:

This is going to a big a major project and one that I will do in steps.

Up first is the Evaporator Core

• Factory Air Evaporator Core Part No. 54571
  

This will be the first and most labor intensive (but cheapest) part of the project. Requires removal of the dash, front seats, and center console. While I'm there I'd like to upgrade the dash harness to the ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) harness, and modify the center speaker housing to accept a larger Kicker speaker. I'm there, I might as well do it. While I'm at it I want to install a first gen lighted key ring. Easy mod.

Next up will be a new or remanufactured a/c compressor. Probably new.

• Factory Air New Compressor with Clutch Part No. 78357
  

or

• Denso New Compressor with Clutch (Actual OE Part) Part No. 4710265
  

• Tough One Engine A/C Accumulator Part No. T83104
  

Perhaps the lines, will have to inspect them.

I may also replace the heater core and blower motor while I'm there, and if so, since it means draining the coolant, I'll probably install new lower intake manifold gaskets.

• Factory Air Blower Motor Part No. 75741
  
• Ready-Aire Heater Core Part No. 398312
  
• Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket Set Part No. MS92165
  

If I can locate a good Agate or Dark Slate 300M carpet while the seats and dash are out I plan to replace my carpet.

On the subject of interiors, if I can get a hold of the remaining two door panels I need I can do my color swap too.

I have two other big projects though I'm not sure I'll get around to them this year or not.

The smaller of the two is body work. I want to get new retaining clips for the front and rear bumpers, and have a good shop repair the dents and paint on the driver's side and part of the roof. However, I may go the cheaper route if I can find matching driver's side doors and fender in good shape and for a good price. I also want to eliminate the small areas of minor surface rust underneath.

I also want to do:

• Transmission service: filter and fluid change
  
• Differential Fluid Change
  
• Power Steering Fluid Change
  

The big one: Complete suspension overhaul

I suspect this one will be a project for next year, but I'm starting my research and gathering info now. In this case I'm not going to go with quick struts because there appears to be issues with aftermarket strut mounts. OE mounts are different and have two different part numbers whereas all aftermarket mounts are one part number for both sides. Plus they only make struts and springs for regular suspension setups.

What I do plan to do is get OEM springs and struts.

What I'm thinking is:

• OEM PHP (Performance Handling Pack) struts
  
• OEM PHP Springs
  
• OEM Strut Mounts
  
• Moog Spring Seat/Bearing Assemblies
  
• Polyurethane Coil Spring Isolators from http://www.polybushings.com/
  
• Moog Strut Bellows Part
  
• Moog Strut Bushings
  

As well as

• Moog Outer Tie Rods
  
• Moog Control Arms with ball joints
  
• 300M Special Front and Rear Sway Bars
  
• Polyurethane Sway Bar Bushings from http://www.polybushings.com/
  
• Moog Sway Bar Links
  

Its a big project to be sure, but when all is set and done it will ride and handle better than it was new. It will immediately be followed by new tires, and four wheel alignment. I'll probably refinish the wheels before new tires go on.

Finally, True Dual Exhaust

• Flowmaster 40s
  
• Flowmaster X-Pipe
  

It's a big list to be sure! We'll see how much gets done this. It will all get done eventually.

So what about you guys?

[FAPTurbo]

I was considering putting a new exhaust on the bike. But that costs money, so I'll just punch holes in the stock muffler instead.

[vonVeezelsnider]

I've got to probably put a new serpentine belt my Impala, and I think I'm going to redo the clips on the Regal's center console... some were loose when we bought the car and I have to take it apart anyway to fix/replace the stupid spring-loaded cupholder my brother broke this winter.

[ocnblu]

Ford Accessories All-Weather floor mats and cargo liner. Maybe window tinting.

Have fun putting a battery in your Intrepid, DF, Good Lord.

[Intrepidation]

The battery isn't as bad as it seems. Remove the air box (one screw), remove the headlight (two 7mm bolts), then remove the twp bolts holding down the battery. Sliding it up the cavity where the airbox was is a bit tricky, but I've had worse issues withe some GM batteries being tightly wedged into the fender under a brace with so little clearance to get it out it can take a while to get the angle just right.

[Satty]

I'm probably going to wash my car at some point. Maybe the wifes car too.

[Drew Dowdell]

Continuing with this list

but there might be another car entering the household....

[FAPTurbo]

I'm thinking a bit of a 'Bobber' style for my Blast, like this guy's: http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showpost.php?p=374656&postcount=1

Perhaps with a V&H or Kerker exhaust, and a bigger air intake. Both are supposed to really wake the bike up.

[Robert Hall]

I want to vacuum and detail the interior of my Jeep this year. And continue to get the usual regular maintenance..at about 127k miles now. My work commute has gone from ~50 miles a day to about 16 miles a day. So far this year, I've had the serpentine belt replaced, shocks replaced, along w/ the usual oil change and filter. New tires 6 months ago. Nothing major coming up besides routine service...probably need the A/C checked before summer, didn't seem to be super cold last summer. Need to replace the rear glass struts. Need to replace a blown speaker eventually also..

Edited April 4, 2011 by Cubical-aka-Moltar

[Camino LS6]

Gah!

Way too many things to do on way too many projects!

First up will be getting the Vette running and evaluating its future.

By the end of the year I want to have the Mothertruck back on the road so I can dump the ROPOS.

Anything beyond those two items will be a bonus.

[Justin Bimmer]

Hopefully my project will be haggling with a Chevrolet dealer . . .

[G. David Felt]

Projects are the GMC Suburban, my 94 baby needs a little attention. Was working in NJ hell for all of last year living out of a hotel and I come home and recharge the battery and start up the baby and notice I have an exhuast leak. Also a musty smell, found that water got into the far back, so need to pull the carpet and figure out where the leak is coming from. Over all it runs great for a 1994 bad ass baby. Gonna just give it a little love.

[§carlet §wordfish]

If I earn some spare cash I'm going to invest in some ABS and Lexan and fabricate some aerodynamic mods for the Sunfire.

[Nick]

I'm thinking a bit of a 'Bobber' style for my Blast, like this guy's: http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showpost.php?p=374656&postcount=1

Perhaps with a V&H or Kerker exhaust, and a bigger air intake. Both are supposed to really wake the bike up.

I will never understand this trend.

[Intrepidation]

Looks like I've got another project. Upper ball joint for the Grand Marquis.

[bobo]

The IS300 has a dead battery and needs a jump. I haven't driven it in a couple of months. Other than that, just oil changes for all the vehicles.

[GMTruckGuy74]

2008 Pontiac G6 V6 Sedan:

- Basic maintenance (L-O-F is due, buy a new air filter, new tires were just installed), plus some additional service needs (getting up there in mileage = 43k)

- Full interior & exterior detail, as soon as the weather warms up

- Need to get the brakes checked out. I've had no luck with any of my previous Epsilon's ('04 Malibu LT, '07 AURA XE - all with the 3.5L V6) lasting past 36-38k with the original factory brake pads & warping rotor issues... G6 is starting to feel like the rotors may be warped, and I'm sure the pads will need replacing regardless.

2006 GMC Envoy SLT 4WD:

Here's where it gets tricky... I don't know what's been done, outside of normal maintenance, before my ownership last March. The truck has around 49k on it now and just passed 5 years old (manufactured in March, 2006). So any advice here would be great (I don't want to ask the dealer or local shop, as they'll see $$$ in their eyes). Here's what I'm figuring will need to be done, so please feel free to give your input:

- Tune-up: GM says 5 years or 100k mileage... so I'm at the 5 year mark, and figure new spark plugs would do it wonders!

- Coolant Flush: the Dexcool lasts 5 years, right? Well I'm at that mark and don't know if it was ever changed...

- 4WD Service: Again, don't know what was done to the transfercase ever, nothing on my end the past year

- Brakes: had new tires installed recently, so I may as well find out the condition of the brakes pads and rotors

- L-O-F Service and new air filter

- Fuel Injector Service: is this recommended? If yes, what's the best way to have this done?

- Battery: how do you tell how old a battery is? I'm not sure if it needs replacing, but if it's the original, a new one would be a good thing at some point this year

Am I missing anything?

Edited April 5, 2011 by GMTruckGuy74

[Drew Dowdell]

Is it running poorly? It came with platinum plugs, they're good for 100k miles regardless. If you do get new plugs, get the new Iridium plugs.

If you do get brakes done, spend the extra on ceramic pads, they last a lot longer than normal pads sometimes twice as long.

You can probably to a coolant flush and fill in your driveway, don't pay someone else to do it. look for coupons for coolant in the Sunday paper.

[SAmadei]

If you do get brakes done, spend the extra on ceramic pads, they last a lot longer than normal pads sometimes twice as long.

They certainly do last longer, but at the expense of shorter rotor life. Luckily, that's not a big deal, as the stock rotors are dirt cheap... but you need to keep an eye on them. A Better reason to switch to ceramic... less brake dust on your wheels.

You can probably to a coolant flush and fill in your driveway, don't pay someone else to do it. look for coupons for coolant in the Sunday paper.

Hardest part is catching all the coolant and finding a place to recycle.

[GMTruckGuy74]

Thanks Oldsmoboi, SAmadei, and wildmanjoe for your replies.

The Envoy is running good, so there is no *need* for the tune-up (I was mistaken then about the 5 years/100k mileage). The truck did have a slight idle problem last May (?) and one of the spark plugs was bad - replaced under warranty - so I'm sure the other 5 are good still. Coolant flush and transfer case fluids sound pretty easy to do, and my township has a fluid recycling center to bring old fluids to; my neighbor is a shade tree mechanic, so maybe I'll ask him to help with these two fixes. The local L-O-F/Car Wash shop I typically use offers the fuel injector cleaning service, but I'm not sure what system they use. I want the truck to run right, and being 5 years old now, feel a cleaning might do it well (especially since car/truck show season is around the corner and the Envoy will see frequent highway trips <PA Turnpike, Northeast Extension, NJ Turnpike, Route 295) and a cleaner running vehicle is a more fuel efficient vehicle The G6's brakes are giving off the indications it's time for service, the Envoy not so much. Next tire rotation - free now at the place I purchased the tires at - I'll ask for a brake inspection. And finally, the last time I was at the dealership for a warranty repair, the service advisor recommended the 50k mileage service for the Envoy on it's next visit, so I'll check into what that offers to make sure it's worth the money.

Oh, and for squeaky doors... WD-40, or is there something better to use?

Edited April 6, 2011 by GMTruckGuy74

[z28luvr01]

Well, I'm trying to scrimp on unnecessary purchases so it doesn't look like I'll be doing all that much to the cars this year. So look at this as more of a wish list than anything else

Colorado:

Rear brakes (have the pads, just need a couple of free hours on the weekend)

Replace the front tires with new Continental ContiTracs. Did the rears a month ago with the same tire.

Repair/replace the cracked front bumper, which I bought the truck with. The cheapest route to take is putting in a claim with GEICO and paying the $500 deductible. The Xtreme bumper isn't produced by a third party so it's $$$ unpainted from the dealer.

Change out the stereo speakers with something that has a little more punch.

Cat-back exhaust if I can find one that doesn't have an obnoxious sound

Compound/buff the finish

Fix the curb rash on all four wheels that's been there I bought it.

PDR as many door dings out as I can. Might have to enlist a pro for this one.

Cobalt

GMPP Touring Exhaust

Compound/buff the finish

[SAmadei]

Oh, and for squeaky doors... WD-40, or is there something better to use?

I usually use spray on Lithium Grease... but sparingly, only on the parts that seem to need it. Otherwise it is real easy to get carried away and make a mess.

In my experience, WD-40 don't stop the squeek long enough. PB Blaster works better, but I feel I've had the best luck with Lithium Grease.

[Intrepidation]

Agree on the Lithium Grease. It's specifically designed for lubricating metal to metal parts. PB Blaster is an excellent penetrating oil but not so much a lubricant (although they do make a multipurpose lubricant). WD-40 is sort of in the middle of the spectrum, as it does some of both, but definitely go with Lithium Grease

[Drew Dowdell]

+1 on the lithium grease... it hangs around longer than WD-40

[GMTruckGuy74]

Thanks! I'll have to make a trip out soon for some. Where's the best place to buy it from? Also, is it a spray like WD-40 or in a tube?

[z28luvr01]

Usually, it's in a can and you brush it on. Kind of like bearing grease.

[Intrepidation]

Thanks! I'll have to make a trip out soon for some. Where's the best place to buy it from? Also, is it a spray like WD-40 or in a tube?

It comes in both. CRC and Liquid Wrench make it in spray cans. You can get either spray or can/tube grease at your local auto parts store.

[Intrepidation]

Today's little project:

First time working on suspension parts. Gotta say it was pretty easy. Only part that have me any difficulty was popping the old one out. PB Blaster made getting the nuts off easy, and everything had plenty of clearance.

[SAmadei]

Meh, its not REAL suspension work unless you have to get the press out or drill out giant rivets. ;-)

Seriously, the modern suspension bits are pretty easy to swap in and out... is that the Intrepid or the Grand Marq? I really like that there is no strut. I don't like the idea of screwing up the alignment replacing a strut.

Edit: Duh, it must be the Grand Marq... no CV joint.

Edited April 8, 2011 by SAmadei

[Intrepidation]

Yep, GM, Intrepid has struts all the way around. All cars should be so easy to work on as this. However it is possible to mess the alignment up as the two bolts which hold the upper ball joint down are adjustment cams. I tried to get them as close as possible to their original location. It was out of alignment before so its hard to say.

[SAmadei]

Yep, GM, Intrepid has struts all the way around. All cars should be so easy to work on as this. However it is possible to mess the alignment up as the two bolts which hold the upper ball joint down are adjustment cams. I tried to get them as close as possible to their original location. It was out of alignment before so its hard to say.

Ah, yeah, I see what you're saying. Interesting, so there is no adjustment shims on the bolts holding the whole apparatus to the frame?

Working on suspension is a lot less stressful when you know the alignment isn't very good. Usually, good parts bring things back to normal enough and I've had pretty good luck with tape measures, string and levels to put cars back into alignment. Sure, you can mark the strut mount, or in your case, the cam bolts... but I know that a little error on the mark translates into a lot of error in the alignment, and that parts have different tolerances... so my paranoia gets the best of me. After the Bonne gets a transmission, I think struts are next, so I'll be seeing how bad I can F-up a car that has been historically very well aligned. It will likely get lower balls at the same time.

[Intrepidation]

Yep, GM, Intrepid has struts all the way around. All cars should be so easy to work on as this. However it is possible to mess the alignment up as the two bolts which hold the upper ball joint down are adjustment cams. I tried to get them as close as possible to their original location. It was out of alignment before so its hard to say.

Ah, yeah, I see what you're saying. Interesting, so there is no adjustment shims on the bolts holding the whole apparatus to the frame?

Working on suspension is a lot less stressful when you know the alignment isn't very good. Usually, good parts bring things back to normal enough and I've had pretty good luck with tape measures, string and levels to put cars back into alignment. Sure, you can mark the strut mount, or in your case, the cam bolts... but I know that a little error on the mark translates into a lot of error in the alignment, and that parts have different tolerances... so my paranoia gets the best of me. After the Bonne gets a transmission, I think struts are next, so I'll be seeing how bad I can F-up a car that has been historically very well aligned. It will likely get lower balls at the same time.

The shims are the two larger "nuts" under the two smaller nuts that secure the ball joint to the upper control arm. You rotate them certain ways to change the position of the ball joint.

Anyway, today I replaced the primary parking brake cable. Much tauter now, but the brakes still aren't strong enough to hold the car on a hill. The shoes have plenty of material n them, they're adjusted, and now there's anew cable. I'm stuck.

[SAmadei]

Anyway, today I replaced the primary parking brake cable. Much tauter now, but the brakes still aren't strong enough to hold the car on a hill. The shoes have plenty of material n them, they're adjusted, and now there's anew cable. I'm stuck.

In my experience, you have to adjust the brakes tighter, to the point where they nearly rub.

I don't know what it is with modern emergency brakes... they all work like crap. I'd hate to actually have to rely on them in an emergency.

Luckily, inspection only required the brake to hold the car at idle... and I've been able to adjust them to do that, on a couple J-bodies... even after replacing nearly everything.

Personally, I think it has to do with how little braking effort is done on modern cars with the rear brakes... the rears barely wear, so they don't self adjust right, leading to a barely functional emergency brake.

In an braking emergency, I use the transmission.

[ocnblu]

Parking brakes have atrophied since the invention of the automatic transmission with "PARK" position. I always find it quaint when an older person sets their parking brake. When I go to move it to put it in line for repairs and I put it in gear and the "brake" light is on in the dash, I chuckle to myself.

I couldn't live without it with my manual transmission, though. I leave the car in gear (first if nose-up, reverse if nose-down, opposite of its roll-away angle) and set the brake when I park. It's also good for jumping out quick if I want to leave the car run, like opening the gate at the campground on the way in.

[SAmadei]

I couldn't live without it with my manual transmission, though. I leave the car in gear (first if nose-up, reverse if nose-down, opposite of its roll-away angle) and set the brake when I park. It's also good for jumping out quick if I want to leave the car run, like opening the gate at the campground on the way in.

Two of the three times I've had to do a Hollywood-style chase down of my vehicle, jump in and stop it, it was because of faulty parking brakes on manual vehicles. So, I don't do that anymore, either, unless I'm on perfectly flat land or sitting in a slight depression or pothole. I'd rather restart the thing.

[Intrepidation]

Well it took a week, but I got the parking brake working properly, it looks clean, and it passed inspection.

Turns out there's some sort of automatic tensioner in the pedal assemble or somewhere that wouldn't adjust the tension of the cable and leave a lot of slack. Ended up removing the connector between the front and rear cables and then connecting them with a heavy duty cable u-bolt. Took all the slack out, brakes work well now.

In other news, new battery in my car, it has officially awakened from winter slumber.

Full detailing planned for Monday.

[SAmadei]

Interesting, I might try that next time... I'm under the Sunfire. How much slack did you have to remove? I'm thinking if I disconnect the two halves, I could use a cable clamp and a turnbuckle to make an adjustable loop.

[ocnblu]

Got my winter mat package, five mats, floor and hatch area. $148.09 wholesale. They fit like a glove, but I wish I could put something over the dead pedal area, as I use it a lot.

[Intrepidation]

Interesting, I might try that next time... I'm under the Sunfire. How much slack did you have to remove? I'm thinking if I disconnect the two halves, I could use a cable clamp and a turnbuckle to make an adjustable loop.

It was at least 3 inches.

[Satty]

That's what she said.

[Camino LS6]

That fix should work fine, but I'm guessing that you lost a tensioning rod that would have done the same thing by hooking one end over the cable, and the other into a hole in the frame.

That's the setup I'm used to anyway.

[Intrepidation]

That fix should work fine, but I'm guessing that you lost a tensioning rod that would have done the same thing by hooking one end over the cable, and the other into a hole in the frame.

That's the setup I'm used to anyway.

1992-1997 used an automatic tensioner built into the parking brake pedal assembly. Other years use a manual adjuster located where the rear cables meet. The automatic tensioner in this case is worn out or something, as it won't keep the cable taut. If you use the pedal a few times it would get a little more taut but then slacken up again shortly after. I'm not replacing the whole pedal, can't find one anyway.

Panthers have pretty lousy parking brakes from what I hear, weird ones too. Up until 2004 they had a vacuum actuator that would release the parking brake automatically when put into drive and won't let it stay down in Drive. Never seen such a setup.

Works now though, that's all that matters.

[ocnblu]

I think my grandfather's 1977 New Yorker had a vacuum-release parking brake.

[Camino LS6]

Wow, that certainly isn't one of Ford's "better ideas".

It makes me like your solution all the more, DF. Complexity for its own sake is really a stupid thing to do. What were they thinking?

[SAmadei]

Wow, that certainly isn't one of Ford's "better ideas".

It makes me like your solution all the more, DF. Complexity for its own sake is really a stupid thing to do. What were they thinking?

GM is doing the same thing in their cars... if the Sunfire has it, I'm sure most GM cars have it.

[Intrepidation]

So, annoyingly, the rear passenger side brakes are making noise, almost like a grinding noise every revolution. There are grooves worn into the rotor. This pisses me off since those are new pads and rotors (good ones too). I don't know if rust from winter storage got caught in the pads or what. I wonder if I can get the rotors turned...