Zoom?

[Blake Noble]

I'll have pics up Tuesday when I'm not at work.

[Blake Noble]

Never mind. I can't catch a break.

[Chevy Nick]

Probably a moot point at this point, but worth sharing. RX-8 rotary engines make like no torque, it was so bad that Mazda had to give away free maintenance because the engines didn't make the power they were rated at. Just FYI.

[Blake Noble]

Yeah, the RX-8 is not an option.

My 350Z ... or what was my 350Z, had to be returned to the dealer. It was too good to be true. The Carfax came back clean, but when I went to get my insurance switched over to Nationwide, the agent revealed that it had been in two previous accidents with one sum totaling over five grand in damage and the other sum not even listed. It's last accident was two months ago in February.

Honestly, if the dealer had been upfront about it, I wouldn't have minded. That car performed flawlessly for me and that's what mattered the most. But I will not support dishonesty.

This entire experience has really soured me on cars completely.

The 350Z really checked off every box for me the more I lived with one. Almost 25 mpg in mixed conditions, a tick over 300 horsepower, six-speed manual, and I got compliments in it everywhere I went. On top of that, I could afford everything it offered.

I can't find another one with as many miles as mine had on it for a reasonable price and it's very disheartening. It was nice to look at the odometer for once and only see 32,000 miles staring back at me instead of 132,000.

There isn't another car that will offer the same package to me.

2005 - 2009 V6 Mustang? That's a joke when you boil it down. The styling of the V6 models were honestly uninteresting without the Pony Package, and to be honest, the Pony Package V6 Mustangs were a little odd looking to me. It may get comparable gas mileage, but why doesn't it offer more power? 190 horsepower just seems so malnourished in a car of the Mustang's magnitude. I can't afford a 2011 model with better styling and the better engine. To top it off, the driving dynamics are worlds apart.

To even play in the same ballpark, I would have to look at GT model Mustangs and sacrifice mpg for reasonable performance figures. Why should I have to make that trade off? To throw salt in the wound, most GT Mustangs for the same price I had my 350Z out the door for have 50K miles plus on them. This car isn't even an option, especially when you consider 85 percent of Mustang drivers are bonafide idiots and will drive them as such.

Forget a V6 Challenger. That's more expensive and almost as bad. I might would change my tune if Dodge would have been smart and offered a manual with the V6, but no. There's always the boring, slightly boneheaded automatic you have to deal with.

I can't afford a 2010 Camaro. If I could, I would have to deal with those steel truck wheels I've hated since the car debuted.

Forget a Crossfire, if you were going to suggest one. Thinking of what it would cost to maintain the Mercedes-Benz running gear makes me sick.

The Cobalt SS, the one car I could have made one compromise one, is out due to insurance reasons. On that note, Nationwide did NOT consider the 350Z a sports car. Yeah. Who knows?

I don't need a sedan and the extra crap that comes with one. I don't need a wagon, as much as I thought I would like a Magnum at one time. Forget SUVs. I really don't want a small truck and I can't live with a full-sized one right now.

I want a coupe. I want great performance. I want decent mpg. I want a manual transmission. I want rear-wheel drive. I want it to have decent mileage on the odometer. I want it to be priced affordably. And, to be honest, I want it to attract attention because it was nice, for once, to have someone else besides me think I had a nice car. I don't want some techno-whiz powertrain and I really don't want a bunch of bells and whistles I will never use if I can help it (cruise control, etc.).

New cars are bull$h!, plain and simple, and when I find one I can live with long-term, it turns out to not be worth what I had paid for it and there isn't anything in sight to replace it with.

I can't drive something from 1970 daily as much as I would like to.

I swear, that black, $h!pile Camaro is a curse. It has been nothing but a drain on my wallet and a waste of my time. For almost a year and a half it has brought me nothing but grief and here I am back with it again, only this time the transmission is a 4-speed instead of a 5-speed (yeah, the trans is about to kick the bucket now).

[FAPTurbo]

http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/2302138880.html

http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/2317959022.html

http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/2289471500.html

http://lexington.craigslist.org/mcy/2317542854.html

I'm serious.

I don't need a sedan and the extra crap that comes with one. I don't need a wagon, as much as I thought I would like a Magnum at one time. I want a coupe. I want around 300 horsepower. I want decent mpg. I want a manual transmission. I want rear-wheel drive. I want it to have decent mileage on the odometer. I want it to be priced affordably. I don't want some techno-whiz powertrain. I WILL NOT compromise.

The bikes I posted all have common traits: easy to handle, good for beginners, cheap on fuel, and relatively low insurance.

Get an old W-Body to beat around in, and a bike for the spring - fall. It's not a coupe, nor does it have 300HP, but that is of no consequence as a coupe is quite useless at hauling stuff anyways.

Edited April 12, 2011 by Dodgefap

[Blake Noble]

I don't want to ride a bike on an 80 mile round trip everyday to get to work. Bikes just aren't in my blood anyway.

RE: Coupes being useless to haul stuff, I did manage to fit my 1978 Fender Bassman Ten in the back of the Camaro with the rear seat folded down. Google one of those amps. They're huge and weigh a good 80 pounds, so it's certainly not light or space friendly. But that's not all, I managed to squeeze a Marshall half-stack and three guitars in hardshell cases in it before that. Yeah, the 350Z wouldn't accept the Bassman, but so what? I have a smaller combo amp I use for practicing with other people and, yes, it would fit it and my Gibson SG.

I can make a coupe work for me. Other people are just to lazy to really try.

[Satty]

Miata?

[Blake Noble]

Miata?

Eh, I'm not really that big on roadsters, as much as I would like a Solstice or Sky. The more I thought about a car like that, the less I liked the thought of driving one year round.

[SAmadei]

I didn't see '04-'06 GTO in your list of potentials.

[FAPTurbo]

I didn't see '04-'06 GTO in your list of potentials.

That probably wouldn't meet the 'decent fuel economy' requirement, as good a car as it is.

[SAmadei]

I didn't see '04-'06 GTO in your list of potentials.

That probably wouldn't meet the 'decent fuel economy' requirement, as good a car as it is.

From fueleconomy.gov:

2006 GTO V8 6-speed... 15 city, 23 hwy... 18 combined.

2007 Nissan 350Z V6 6-speed... 18 city, 25 hwy... 20 combined.

Driving style is going to make or break this more than the 2 mpg difference.

Plus I've seen a lot of GTOs going cheaper than the 350Z... $4000 buys a lot of gas... 1000 gallons, 20,000 miles... He would have to put 200,000 on the car before the 10% difference in mpg mattered.

[Cory Wolfe]

Driving will do alot, true. So far, I'm only averaging about 22 mpg in the Legacy, but that seems to be the norm for these. If I can't beat the official rating, I'll be unhappy with myself.

[Blake Noble]

I had managed to get the Z's mpg readout to 24.2 before I had to part with it.

There's a GTO in Mt. Sterling but ... I don't know. It's $13,900 with 58,000 miles and the mileage doesn't quite agree with me. I know the LS1 can be efficient, but I don't know if I can make it work for me like I made the VQ.

At this point, I seriously think I'm going to quit my job and just quit worrying about this load of $h! since I can't find reliable transportation like I want.

Immature? I guess. But then again, if I'm going to pay a car payment every month, it had better damn well be everything I had ever wanted and not $h! the bed on me while I'm paying off the loan.

The Camaro isn't worth the effort, so don't waste time suggesting that. If you can make a car like that work for you, then great. I'm tired of having to cough up money to fix it for one week at a time. I really hope someone steals it.

[Intrepidation]

At this point, I seriously think I'm going to quit my job and just quit worrying about this load of $h! since I can't find reliable transportation like I want.

Now there's a great idea.

[ocnblu]

Well, you may not believe me, but I was a tad bit suspicious when you posted the selling price for the Z. It seemed too low... and I was going to ask if you'd done a title search to see if it was a reconstructed (repaired total loss) vehicle. But you've already had enough rain on this parade.

One reason why used cars scare me. Carfax is not a true friend.

[z28luvr01]

I had managed to get the Z's mpg readout to 24.2 before I had to part with it.

There's a GTO in Mt. Sterling but ... I don't know. It's $13,900 with 58,000 miles and the mileage doesn't quite agree with me. I know the LS1 can be efficient, but I don't know if I can make it work for me like I made the VQ.

At this point, I seriously think I'm going to quit my job and just quit worrying about this load of $h! since I can't find reliable transportation like I want.

Immature? I guess. But then again, if I'm going to pay a car payment every month, it had better damn well be everything I had ever wanted and not $h! the bed on me while I'm paying off the loan.

The Camaro isn't worth the effort, so don't waste time suggesting that. If you can make a car like that work for you, then great. I'm tired of having to cough up money to fix it for one week at a time. I really hope someone steals it.

If you keep your foot out of the LS1, the GTO will do just fine. It'll also last forever.

You can get a decent amount of car for what you were willing to pay for the Z. I guess part of the problem is that there's just not much available near you, compared to say the NY Metro area.

Consider something like this

dirt cheap to insure

reliable

RWD/V8

you can get 20+ mpg out of it hwy depending on how you drive it

easy to work on/modify

you can't beat the utility

[Satty]

Ignore for a second the drive wheels and consider that ten grand will get you into a Mini Cooper with between 60-100,000 miles of my quick glance at cars.com is correct. Ours had some demons early on but has been reliable since, unless you count my wife destroying the clutch.

Great mileage, its a coupe and a hoot to drive. At least check one out, you might be surprised.

[Robert Hall]

It sounds like you are setting yourself up w/ unrealistic expectations given what is available in your area at your price point.

A bit of advice-- it's better at this point to be pragmatic--put your money into something that is above all else reliable so you can can get to work, and save some money towards your dream car in the future. Otherwise, your drama of wasting money on unreliable money pits is going to continue to repeat ad infinitum. Sorry to hear the Z wasn't what it appeared to be..keep looking, something will turn up..

Edited April 12, 2011 by Cubical-aka-Moltar

[z28luvr01]

Ignore for a second the drive wheels and consider that ten grand will get you into a Mini Cooper with between 60-100,000 miles of my quick glance at cars.com is correct. Ours had some demons early on but has been reliable since, unless you count my wife destroying the clutch.

Great mileage, its a coupe and a hoot to drive. At least check one out, you might be surprised.

Mini might be a tad too small for him and his guitar equipment, but that's a great choice. Someone I ride with has one with a roof mounted bike rack. It's funny seeing the height of his Mini doubled with a Trek 1000 on top. When stuff does go wrong on it, what are the repair bills like compared to the same job on, say, a Ford or Chevy?

It sounds like you are setting yourself up w/ unrealistic expectations given what is available in your area at your price point.

A bit of advice-- it's better at this point to be pragmatic--put your money into something that is above all else reliable so you can can get to work, and save some money towards your dream car in the future. Otherwise, your drama of wasting money on unreliable money pits is going to continue to repeat ad infinitum.

Some good advice. I still think a "work truck" spec full-sizer might be the vehicle that suits the majority of your needs.

Generally, when buying cars, if the price seems to be too good to be true, it probably is - unfortunately.

[Satty]

The 350Z isn't exactly a minivan either. Repair wise, the electrical stuff was covered under warranty and has been fine since. I'd have to check the receipts for the exact costs, but I remember the clutch being over $3,000 and being told it was the first non-S they had seen blow a clutch before 100k. The windshields ran a few hundred and new tires were over a grand. Driving like a non-idiot will prevent you from having to pay out for the new clutch or windshield and tires can be as cheap as you'd like them to be.

[z28luvr01]

So really it's not significantly worse than anything else just because it's made by BMW. Interesting. I'd honestly rock one.

From what I remember of it when I sat in it, you could either have rear seat passengers or cargo, but not both. I saw one in Queens last week with a set of 15" steelies on it. That's probably not a bad idea for dealing with potholes and protecting your thousand-dollar tires and your thousand-dollar rims.

[Satty]

A Mini can hold 4 people, provided the passengers in back don't mind an intimate setting. I wouldn't use it to go cross-country with 4 adults, but its acceptable for 2 adults and a toddler. For what its worth, its nearly impossible to change clothes inside unless you're a Russian gymnast.

Edit: I despised the rooftop bike carrier but have gotten used to it. However, the Jetta is light years better for biking and kayaking duty.

Edited April 12, 2011 by Satty

[Intrepidation]

It sounds like you are setting yourself up w/ unrealistic expectations given what is available in your area at your price point.

A bit of advice-- it's better at this point to be pragmatic--put your money into something that is above all else reliable so you can can get to work, and save some money towards your dream car in the future. Otherwise, your drama of wasting money on unreliable money pits is going to continue to repeat ad infinitum. Sorry to hear the Z wasn't what it appeared to be..keep looking, something will turn up..

Best (and often repeated in these threads) advice.

[Satty]

Know what would be cheap to buy, insure and fix? An old van. Gas would be expensive, but that would be offset by the lack of a payment.

[vonVeezelsnider]

Just read the full story, and aw man does that suck... Talk about a quirk of fate.

A Mini wouldn't be an awful choice mind you...

[Blake Noble]

I managed to calm down and decided I would give an '04 GTO I found a chance. I'll know something tomorrow. The dealer was upfront about this one having a minor run-in with a deer back in 2007. Let's see what my insurance agent says ...

[caddycruiser]

GTO is fun, but the suspension underneath will need a full go through if it hasn't already been. Strut bushings, struts, rear bushings, rear springs, etc. They have a lot of common issues, and lots of aftermarket suspension companies have replacement everything for them.

Fun car, but can be a little much as a daily, the Oz factor included. Check it out, regardless.

[z28luvr01]

I managed to calm down and decided I would give an '04 GTO I found a chance. I'll know something tomorrow. The dealer was upfront about this one having a minor run-in with a deer back in 2007. Let's see what my insurance agent says ...

Good choice - I'm sure Camino and Northstar will agree. Was the damage repaired? Look underneath for some broken brackets, etc. Make sure the structure is sound.

What's your take on the Charger? I only ask because this, this, and this can all be had for mid-teens.

[Blake Noble]

I managed to calm down and decided I would give an '04 GTO I found a chance. I'll know something tomorrow. The dealer was upfront about this one having a minor run-in with a deer back in 2007. Let's see what my insurance agent says ...

Good choice - I'm sure Camino and Northstar will agree. Was the damage repaired? Look underneath for some broken brackets, etc. Make sure the structure is sound.

What's your take on the Charger? I only ask because this, this, and this can all be had for mid-teens.

Well I had the GTO on a lift today to catch any structual damage and leaks. The structure is fine. I can guarantee the hood, fascia, and driver's side front quarter panel were replaced. The hood was off alignment by a few millimeters and the driver's side GTO emblem read "6.0. Litre" instead of 5.7. Small things you don't notice unless you really look for them and it seems to have been put back right save for the wrong badge.

Now, there is what might be a power steering fluid leak. I have the dealer looking into that.

There were some modifications too. Nothing major, just a K&N cold air intake and a childish straight pipe in place of the muffler.

I'm a little on the fence about it. We'll see.

As for Chargers, I like them for the most part. But a lot of 'em you can buy for a cheap price, well, dont offer a lot for the money. I'd want at least the 3.5L. The 2.7 doesn't quite cut it. (The SE you linked to is at the same lot the Cobalt SS is at and, wow, were they assholes. The R/T may warrant some investigation depending on what happens with the GTO.)

[Intrepidation]

First year Chargers came with the 3.5 and 5-speed automatic standard, upgrades to everything but the powertrain are easy. 3.5 doesn't have a lot of aftermarket support (trust me, its been researched). However its a good, solid engine with respectable power.

[z28luvr01]

Well I had the GTO on a lift today to catch any structual damage and leaks. The structure is fine. I can guarantee the hood, fascia, and driver's side front quarter panel were replaced. The hood was off alignment by a few millimeters and the driver's side GTO emblem read "6.0. Litre" instead of 5.7. Small things you don't notice unless you really look for them and it seems to have been put back right save for the wrong badge.

Now, there is what might be a power steering fluid leak. I have the dealer looking into that.

There were some modifications too. Nothing major, just a K&N cold air intake and a childish straight pipe in place of the muffler.

I'm a little on the fence about it. We'll see.

As for Chargers, I like them for the most part. But a lot of 'em you can buy for a cheap price, well, dont offer a lot for the money. I'd want at least the 3.5L. The 2.7 doesn't quite cut it. (The SE you linked to is at the same lot the Cobalt SS is at and, wow, were they assholes. The R/T may warrant some investigation depending on what happens with the GTO.)

Well, it doesn't seem like there's anything that would be a showstopper. Your biggest issue is the PS fluid leak and I'd consider getting that fixed as a condition of the sale. The other stuff you could easily handle on your own. Ebay the 5.7 badge, nip/tuck the front end, and either put back the stock pipe, or take the opportunity to install a cat-back wen you're ready. The fact that he was willing to put it up on a lift to let you look it over is somewhat comforting. I've went looking for used cars and met owners who said to me, in these exact words, "Look, just take the f**king car." If I were you I'd bring a good mechanic (preferrably one with access to a OBD-II scanner) for a second look before you pull the trigger.

As for the Chargers, I was pretty certain that the general consensus on the 2.7L is "stay away". I do know a few people with 3.5L powered LX cars, and as DF said they're pretty reliable and provide decent power for what they are. *turns to Dodgefan* Off topic, but is this 3.5 in any way related to the 3.5 in your Intrepid and in the 1st gen LH cars?

[Intrepidation]

Yes, its the the same engine. They have different exhaust manifolds, different upper intake manifold, the lower intake manifold doesn't have the guide dowel/pins, and they have different oil pans (LX can hold 6 quarts vs LH which holds 5 quarts). I think the accessories are mounted in different locations as well.

Other then that they're pretty much the same second gen LH to LX.

First Gen to second gen LH 3.5s share the same block and hard points IIRC, but the 3.5 was significantly engineered. It made like 160 horsepower in the first gens to 250 in the second gens.

First gen LH

Second gen LH

LX

[z28luvr01]

Ah - I thought the rating on my dad's Eagle Vision was 200-something. But still an incredible engine for the time. The Japanese OHC V6s didn't touch 200 until the turn of the decade.

[Intrepidation]

Oops, you're right, 161 hp was the 3.3, the 3.5 made 214 hp. The 3.5 was and still is a good engine. Buddy of money got more than 400,000 miles on his original one before it gave out.

[Blake Noble]

Well I had the GTO on a lift today to catch any structual damage and leaks. The structure is fine. I can guarantee the hood, fascia, and driver's side front quarter panel were replaced. The hood was off alignment by a few millimeters and the driver's side GTO emblem read "6.0. Litre" instead of 5.7. Small things you don't notice unless you really look for them and it seems to have been put back right save for the wrong badge.

Now, there is what might be a power steering fluid leak. I have the dealer looking into that.

There were some modifications too. Nothing major, just a K&N cold air intake and a childish straight pipe in place of the muffler.

I'm a little on the fence about it. We'll see.

As for Chargers, I like them for the most part. But a lot of 'em you can buy for a cheap price, well, dont offer a lot for the money. I'd want at least the 3.5L. The 2.7 doesn't quite cut it. (The SE you linked to is at the same lot the Cobalt SS is at and, wow, were they assholes. The R/T may warrant some investigation depending on what happens with the GTO.)

Well, it doesn't seem like there's anything that would be a showstopper. Your biggest issue is the PS fluid leak and I'd consider getting that fixed as a condition of the sale. The other stuff you could easily handle on your own. Ebay the 5.7 badge, nip/tuck the front end, and either put back the stock pipe, or take the opportunity to install a cat-back wen you're ready. The fact that he was willing to put it up on a lift to let you look it over is somewhat comforting. I've went looking for used cars and met owners who said to me, in these exact words, "Look, just take the f**king car." If I were you I'd bring a good mechanic (preferrably one with access to a OBD-II scanner) for a second look before you pull the trigger.

As for the Chargers, I was pretty certain that the general consensus on the 2.7L is "stay away". I do know a few people with 3.5L powered LX cars, and as DF said they're pretty reliable and provide decent power for what they are. *turns to Dodgefan* Off topic, but is this 3.5 in any way related to the 3.5 in your Intrepid and in the 1st gen LH cars?

It really isn't. The fact that the dealer is willing to stand behind it for 30 days and pay a 50/50 difference for any repairs needed during that time is also another big plus.

They're going to call me in the morning and let me know what exactly the leak was.

I know it was coming from somewhere around the front of the engine and somehow winding up back on the oil pan. It wasn't really a major leak but not what I would call minor either. I thought it was a oil leak at first until I noticed the color of the fluid was a brownish red and of a thinner viscosity than engine oil. If it is a power steering fluid leak then I would bet on it being either a bad pump, maybe bad lines. The hoses coming from the fluid reservoir also had power steering fluid residue on them, which only helps me to confirm that, especially considering the car wasn't low on oil, just getting due for a change.

Depending on how the GTO badges were fixed to the fenders, I may just spend a few seconds with dental floss and rid the car of them completely. It's cheaper and does clean the appearance of the car up a bit. If they cover up the Monaro side indicator light holes, I may just throw a set of those on there and wire them up (can't be that hard).

A muffler will be a must later. The car just seems a touch crude without it.

A later, small touch maybe swapping out the basic grille inserts with the SAP ones.

When I first started looking for a new car, I drove a 2.7L Charger and it left me pretty cold. Don't get me wrong, the Charger is a nice car, but the 2.7 leaves a lot to be desired. The 3.5 wasn't any slouch, from what I can recall.

But that R/T still stands out. We'll see what happens on the Goat farm first.

[z28luvr01]

That'd be my guess too on the fluid leak, a bad pump or a cracked line/hose. I don't think the impact from a deer would have been so great that it made it all the way to the rack. A PS pump or line should be a relatively straightforward fix.

Belt diagram for the LS1 (Fbody and GTO):

The pump's right on the top. It doesn't get any easier than this. Look for some residue on the alternator, since it's right below the pump. Given the body panels that were changed and the location of the pump, it's very likely that it took a direct hit from the deer.

[Blake Noble]

That'd be my guess too on the fluid leak, a bad pump or a cracked line/hose. I don't think the impact from a deer would have been so great that it made it all the way to the rack. A PS pump or line should be a relatively straightforward fix.

Belt diagram for the LS1 (Fbody and GTO):

The pump's right on the top. It doesn't get any easier than this. Look for some residue on the alternator, since it's right below the pump. Given the body panels that were changed and the location of the pump, it's very likely that it took a direct hit from the deer.

Well, the dealer wiped the oil pan down and left a piece of cardboard underneath it overnight to catch what was up. Nothing wound up on the cardboard, so that pretty much rules out an oil leak or anything massively leaking. I'll give the power steering pump a good going over, but there is the remote possibilty someone might have simply spilled some of it while refilling the resevoir.

I'll know what finally happens with this car Saturday. These guys have been helpful and straightforward so far and are willing to stand behind the car during the time of initial ownership, so ...

[Blake Noble]

Guess this guage cluster.

[Intrepidation]

There's no guessing, its an LX, either Charger or Magnum.

[Blake Noble]

Nope. Too many doors.

[Intrepidation]

Still an LX, but Challenger.

[Blake Noble]

Bingo.

It's a left over 2010 model that came out to be just as cheap as the 350Z. It has 87 miles on it right now, 20 when I bought it. It was too good to pass up.

I still think the 5-speed auto is pigheaded, but at least I can shut myself up about it using the AutoStick function (why in the world did I forget about that?).

[Satty]

Congrats, a different beast than the Z, not a bad ride at all, especially if the price was right.

[Intrepidation]

Well that was unexpected. Sweet purchase. Pics or GTFO.

[z28luvr01]

Congratulations, dude. Challenger is a great choice. Enjoy it. You've been through hell trying to find a nice car. I'm glad to see those days are finally over.

Just out of curiousity, what happened with the goat?

[Turbojett]

Sweet! I'd love to see pics of that. SE or R/T? (Can't imagine you could get a used SRT for the same price as a 350Z)

[Blake Noble]

Thanks guys.

The GTO did have the power steering leak I suspected it had. Although it wasn't spilling fluid on the ground, I decided I would drive the car one more time to see if that was what would spur on the accumulation of fluid on the oil pan. I was right. Not only that, but the fluid level dropped after driving it. I gave the dealer two options: fix it before I buy it, or knock $500 off of the price. They first claimed they would fix it, then changed their mind later on that. They didn't want to knock any money off of the price of the car so I just walked away.

The Challenger deal was solid. $3,500 for my trade which brought the price of the car down from an agreed upon price of $19,800 with TT&L (asking price was already at $20,900 but I had the dealer shave some change off because of a blemish on the lower corner of the front fascia; some jackass couldn't unload it off of the truck) to 16,300 with TT&L. A used 2010 Challenger with about 10,000 miles will set you back more than that.

It's an SE model with a Customer Preferred Package that adds a set of $775 alloy wheels and touring tires. Sticker price on my car was almost $25,000.

[bobo]

Congratulations. Hope you have many trouble-free miles. You deserve that after all the grief you've endured.

[caddycruiser]

Awesome choice--and NEW!

The GTO would have been a headache for you, from suspension to other issues, great engine aside. This is a perfect buy, and new. Powertrain is solid, if not huge on power, and NEW.

Congrats

[SAmadei]

Guess this guage cluster.

You might want to think about putting some gas in that thing, or you're going to be walking again.