I Think I'll Pull the Trigger on This One

[Blake Noble]

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/1971810415.html

That is, unless, that price is missing a zero.

[balthazar]

Absolutely (@ $50) !

[Camino LS6]

Even with an extra zero, that's a killer buy.

Shut down the computer and go get it.

Now.

[Blake Noble]

I guarantee I could probably have it running in less than a day or at least know what isn't working.

This may be that one project I wind up squirreling away.

There isn't much left to do to the Cutlass (well, except sort out the bad paint job). Speaking of the Cutlass, I think I should finally get around to taking a decent set of photos of it soon.

Edited September 25, 2010 by whiteknight

[Blake Noble]

Even with an extra zero, that's a killer buy.

Shut down the computer and go get it.

Now.

There's one issue: I don't have the extra zero.

However, I have already sent an e-mail ... fingers crossed I get a response, the price is right, and it's fairly close by.

[Satty]

Even missing two zeros, that wouldn't be a bad buy. '67s aren't as sexy for collectors as '64 1/2s but they still sell at $10k+

[Cory Wolfe]

You think? Don't think, do. Now. You don't have time to spare... It will be gone before you give it any more thought.

[Camino LS6]

You think? Don't think, do. Now. You don't have time to spare... It will be gone before you give it any more thought.

This.

Borrow the extra cash if you have to.

[Blake Noble]

Even missing two zeros, that wouldn't be a bad buy. '67s aren't as sexy for collectors as '64 1/2s but they still sell at $10k+

The '67 isn't as common as the earlier first-generation Mustangs, though. I like that.

I know someone who has a '66 Mustang and my dad works with a guy who's restoring a '65. The '64.5 through '66 model Mustangs are as common as Toyota Camrys in the classic car market.

However, that does make these early Mustangs some of the cheapest cars to restore.

[Intrepidation]

Looks like a hell of deal, even at $500, but...

Why would you buy another car to fix up when A.) Your DD isn't in great shape and B.) You're afraid to do work on it?

[FAPTurbo]

This will not end well.

[Blake Noble]

You think? Don't think, do. Now. You don't have time to spare... It will be gone before you give it any more thought.

Trust me, as soon as the guy e-mails me, I plan on jumping on it. At $50 bucks, I'd be an idiot not to.

[Blake Noble]

Looks like a hell of deal, even at $500, but...

Why would you buy another car to fix up when A.) Your DD isn't in great shape and B.) You're afraid to do work on it?

Who knows. I may just sell the Camaro at a loss and dump whatever cash I get into this.

Okay, I'm not, but I do plan on getting to the bottom of whatever is up with the Camaro shortly. It's actually been on good behavior lately, no glitching or hiccups, so I'm starting to think I may have wrote the car off too soon.

But a 1967 Mustang for $50 bucks? Don't tell me you would pass on the opportunity regardless of whatever else may be going on with another car in your driveway.

I'm not afraid to do any work on an older car like this myself short of bodywork. I did 95 percent of what the Cutlass needed engine-wise myself. I just get these older engines.

Edited September 25, 2010 by whiteknight

[SAmadei]

Who knows. I may just sell the Camaro at a loss and dump whatever cash I get into this.

You've already refused to do that.

If you're really ready to sell the Camaro for $50, I'll be on the bus tonight to pick it up. ;-)

I'm not afraid to do any work on an older car like this myself short of bodywork. I did 95 percent of what the Cutlass needed engine-wise myself. I just get these older engines.

???

Did you rebuild your Cutlass engine or just power wash it? ;-) No offense meant, but I can't imagine you dug too far into the engine if your reluctant to change the intake gasket on the Camaro.

There is no difference between old engines and new... except there is more to remember to put back together on the newer ones. If anything, the older engines are more finicky, as they have such loose tolerances.

Even though that picture looks decent, I guarantee you that that car needs serious bodywork, or else it would not be for sale for $50, $500 or $5000. Bodywork is 90% of every restoration project.

[SAmadei]

This will not end well.

Queue up the white Accord... or maybe a two white Accords... one a very early model. ;-)

[Blake Noble]

You've already refused to do that.

If you're really ready to sell the Camaro for $50, I'll be on the bus tonight to pick it up. ;-)

Okay, I'm not ...

???

Did you rebuild your Cutlass engine or just power wash it? ;-) No offense meant, but I can't imagine you dug too far into the engine if your reluctant to change the intake gasket on the Camaro.

Of course I didn't completely rebuild it. It didn't need anything that extreme so why bother?

I replaced the carburetor, oil pan gaskets, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, oil pan gasket, some hoses, and a battery cable. Sometime later on down the road, I'm going to dress it up with some chrome valve pan covers because the stock ones are sort of bringing down the appearance of the whole engine bay.

And, yes, I did power wash it.

There is no difference between old engines and new... except there is more to remember to put back together on the newer ones. If anything, the older engines are more finicky, as they have such loose tolerances.

That's one reason why I don't want to do any serious engine work on the Camaro myself.

Having any sort of an advanced technological perimeter to work within engine-wise just scares the shit out of me.

It would really make me nervous and I can't work when I'm nervous because that's when I get easily aggravated and walk away from something.

I can deal with an engine that I can fix something on and dial back in if I have to. It's just simple tinkering really. And even if you don't have it dialed in spot on, you can still drive the car if you absolutely have to as long as its close as possible.

Even though that picture looks decent, I guarantee you that that car needs serious bodywork, or else it would not be for sale for $50, $500 or $5000. Bodywork is 90% of every restoration project.

Quarter panels for that car are around $65 bucks a piece, more than what the actual car itself costs proved the advertised price is correct. What concerns me the most is what might be under that vinyl top ...

Edited September 25, 2010 by whiteknight

[Blake Noble]

Queue up the white Accord... or maybe a two white Accords... one a very early model. ;-)

I don't see the point.

[SAmadei]

Of course I didn't completely rebuild it. It didn't need anything that extreme so why bother?

I replaced the carburetor, oil pan gaskets, fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, oil pan gasket, some hoses, and a battery cable. Sometime later on down the road, I'm going to dress it up with some chrome valve pan covers because the stock ones are sort of bringing down the appearance of the whole engine bay.

Then you are more than qualified to fix the Camaro.

Don't get rid of the original covers. You may need to restore them later. A lot of chrome valve covers are Chinese garbage and will rust immediately or flex so much you won't get a good seal. Blasted and repainted originals look REALLY good after putting up with that.

That's one reason why I don't want to do any serious engine work on the Camaro myself.

Having any sort of an advanced technological perimeter to work within engine-wise just scares the $h! out of me.

All the techie stuff just gets installed. There is no adjustment generally needed. Inspect it, install it, torque it, make sure it don't leak and forget it.

I love the old stuff as much as the next guy... but having to constantly adjust the ignition, carb or valvetrain can be a major PITA.

It would really make me nervous and I can't work when I'm nervous because that's when I get easily aggravated and walk away from something.

The only thing you have to worry about is the order you take stuff apart. Remember what screw, connector or whatever came off and when. With the internet and cheap cameras, you're living in the golden age.

I can deal with an engine that I can fix something on and dial back in if I have to. It's just simple tinkering really. And even if you don't have it dialed in spot on, you can still drive the car if you absolutely have to as long as its close as possible.

Then you haven't worked on a project that slowly killed itself, then. You CAN cause eventual engine damage simply tinkering.

Quarter panels for that car are around $65 bucks a piece, more than what the actual car itself costs proved the advertised price is correct. What concerns me the most is what might be under that vinyl top ...

$65 is likely for a cheap, thin, possibly incomplete, Chinese knock off, that may require a lot of work to get right. I don't price Ford sheet metal, but I imagine for a quality piece, you're going to pay more... I would guessimate just under $200... and getting it welded in is a major expense unless you can do it yourself. Then there is the likely needed inner fenderwell... or any filler panels underneath that may need replacement or fabrication. Getting some of those rear quarter sandwiches of sheet metal apart without damaging it is a real PITA.

Yeah, whats under the vinyl top is a concern. Of course, they are now converting coupes to more desirable fastbacks or convertibles, so that conversion would negate any roof sheetmetal issues.

I'm not telling you not to go for it... its a great deal. But you are WAY too optimistic in this thread.

[Blake Noble]

Then you are more than qualified to fix the Camaro.

Maybe so, but I just don't think it would be best for me to do the job here. The Rocket 350 was easy to work on. Plenty of room. Everything is logically where you can get to it easily, no second guessing.

The 3800 V6 in the Camaro, whole 'nother beast.

I won't beat a dead horse here. I went through all of this in another thread. Bottom line: I'm comfortable working on the Cutlass. I'm not comfortable working on the Camaro. End of story.

Don't get rid of the original covers. You may need to restore them later. A lot of chrome valve covers are Chinese garbage and will rust immediately or flex so much you won't get a good seal. Blasted and repainted originals look REALLY good after putting up with that.

I've always planned on keeping them in any case. Original valve pan covers for an Olds Rocket 350 aren't exactly plentiful.

$65 is likely for a cheap, thin, possibly incomplete, Chinese knock off, that may require a lot of work to get right. I don't price Ford sheet metal, but I imagine for a quality piece, you're going to pay more... I would guessimate just under $200... and getting it welded in is a major expense unless you can do it yourself. Then there is the likely needed inner fenderwell... or any filler panels underneath that may need replacement or fabrication. Getting some of those rear quarter sandwiches of sheet metal apart without damaging it is a real PITA.

The full rear 3/4 is $299 (scroll down): http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/SheetMetal/quarter_panels.htm

Skins are $89 (scroll down): http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/SheetMetal/quarter_panel_skins.htm

These are prices I'm seeing from a lot of different places.

Yeah, whats under the vinyl top is a concern. Of course, they are now converting coupes to more desirable fastbacks or convertibles, so that conversion would negate any roof sheetmetal issues.

I'm not telling you not to go for it... its a great deal. But you are WAY too optimistic in this thread.

What's the harm in dreaming a little? Anyway, I don't think I'm being overly optimistic. I'm not expecting a perfect car, should I actually buy this.

[ocnblu]

He needs to get that car out of his yard? Because it is not fitting in with the rest of his landscaping?

[Intrepidation]

This will not end well.

[Blake Noble]

Dude didn't e-mail me back, so ...

That's alright. I think I'll pick up a set of Z06 five-spokers for the Camaro instead.

Edited September 26, 2010 by whiteknight

[Blake Noble]

Yeah, the more I think about it, the more I think I'll just waste some money on the Camaro.

There's a 30th Anniversary car in the junkyard down the road from me. I think I'll swipe the gauges out of it. Maybe. Would that even look right? Anyway, I do think I'll trade my cloth interior in for a leather one, pending I find one in decent shape.

[A Horse With No Name]

As far as early Mustangs go...avoid Chinese knockoff sheet metal, period.

Unless you can find a really nice California or Arizona car, avoid it like the plague. One of my SCCA buddies dumped about two years of hard work and a ton of cash bringing back a 65 coupe....it's a nice car...but not worth that kind of time and effort.

In addition to torque boxes, trunk floors, and floor boards, these cars rust ahead of the front windshield and it's a major expense-pita to fix...

Plus, the whole Mustang crowd that liked these cars is getting older and starting to enjoy late model stuff. At every Mustang show I go to, I see more late model stuff and less early model stuff.

$500 is pretty much fair market value for a coupe in need of work...one ran in the 24 hours of lemons and did pretty good....you can find them for that.

I've been offered fairly solid six cylinder ragtops for under $500 and passed...they just have no re sale....seriously.

Oh, and Whiteknight..one of my sons friends just scored a 97 Camaro, 6 cyl, manual, nice under 100k, very minor body work above one headlight, one owner....for $1100. There are deals to be had on late model Camaro's, and now is a good time to fool with them. As you have already seen, lots O'parts are available in junkyards for them.

Chris

[Blake Noble]

As far as early Mustangs go...avoid Chinese knockoff sheet metal, period.

Unless you can find a really nice California or Arizona car, avoid it like the plague. One of my SCCA buddies dumped about two years of hard work and a ton of cash bringing back a 65 coupe....it's a nice car...but not worth that kind of time and effort.

In addition to torque boxes, trunk floors, and floor boards, these cars rust ahead of the front windshield and it's a major expense-pita to fix...

Plus, the whole Mustang crowd that liked these cars is getting older and starting to enjoy late model stuff. At every Mustang show I go to, I see more late model stuff and less early model stuff.

$500 is pretty much fair market value for a coupe in need of work...one ran in the 24 hours of lemons and did pretty good....you can find them for that.

I've been offered fairly solid six cylinder ragtops for under $500 and passed...they just have no re sale....seriously.

Ah, I'm not worried about it. I'll just eventually repaint the Cutlass Viking Blue, like this car ...

... And throw a few bucks the Camaro's way.

I'll have the Cutty out on Monday to have the driver's side upper seat cushion matched to the rest of the interior. I'll take a photo and show you guys how horrible the paint job is. I'll never go with enamel again. It's already chalking in places, fading from the sun, and every speck of dust and drop of bird$h! stains the color. It doesn't help that a proper clear coat was never applied to the car (something I recently discovered; a BIG thank you to the assholes who painted this car who I should probably sue like hell).

Oh, and Whiteknight..one of my sons friends just scored a 97 Camaro, 6 cyl, manual, nice under 100k, very minor body work above one headlight, one owner....for $1100. There are deals to be had on late model Camaro's, and now is a good time to fool with them. As you have already seen, lots O'parts are available in junkyards for them.

Chris

$1100? 100k? V6, 5-speed?

... Now I want to get rid of the car again.

[A Horse With No Name]

Seriously, drive the Camaro, keep the cutty...and buy something like a 2011 Camaro or a C6 corvette when your career gets going well.