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Posted

I was replacing the driver's side rear window regulator on the Mercury, was just about done, tightening the last bolt (one that holds the glass in place) did it too tight and the whole damn thing shattered everywhere.

So obviously I'm pissed at myself for tightening it too tight (and too a lesser extend pissed at Ford for designing crap regulators that break all the damn time, then riveting the stupid things in place).

Problem is that the car has one of those landau tops, and the part that goes on the door goes over the stupid window frame. There's no way to get the glass out or in with it there. My question is, what adhesive do they use the secure the tops? It looks kind of like rubber glue. I see no other way than to cut the adhesive off so I can pull the thing back enough to fit a window in. I'll need to reattach with new adhesive afterward.

I'm so frustrated...it was the LAST bolt and I was done. Now instead of the window being down a couple of inches there is a big gaping hole where the window should be.

Posted (edited)

In my experience, you need to get the window out of the bottom of the track, sometimes by removing the metal part at the bottom... turn it sideways and crooked and take it out of the window gap.

I haven't seen too many cars which have the window glass held in by trim. Once you get the vinyl peeled back and the trim off, I fear you will find more sheetmetal.

Granted, I don't know Ford Panthers, so take with a grain of salt.

BTW, adhesive used is likely 3M 77.

Edited by SAmadei
Posted

There's physically not enough pace inside the door to rotate the glass.

I've taken a window out at the junkyard before. They slide out of the top. The problem is that the landau trim that's on this one goes over the window frame, preventing the glass from being pulled out. That is my problem.

Posted

Looking at it, I think I'd get a window first and try to fit it in from the inside before messing with the landau.

Not saying it would work, but I'd sure give it a shot.

X2 on the 3M adhesive.

Posted

Rubbery and black (although it looks tan in the pic) sounds like it could have been a weatherstrip adhesive or that 3M "trim and emblem adhesive."

Oh, I didn't think that was the adhesive you were referring to... yeah, that is likely just general weathership adhesive. I thought you were referring to the adhesive holding the vinyl to the 'cap' that is actually attached to the door.

So, the window track doesn't go all the way to the top of the window pillar? Most pillared windows I have seen have a full frame on three sides of the window to seat, which would not allow the window coming out the top. Perhaps you need to remove the rear quarter window, loosen the rear-ward track and that would give you the room to rotate the window and pull it out through the gap.

Again, I'm not there, or very familiar with taking apart Mercs, so I'm purely speculating.

I will say that I really like the vinyl roof... again, a dying breed, so like fake woodgrain, I have a soft spot for vinyl. I really like the clean, tucked in look. My '70 Tempest has a replacement top which they tucked, and it looked so clean in its prime.

Posted (edited)

We just had a GM in the shop that needed a RH rear door. Insurance company guidelines indicated we go used, and wouldn't you know it, it had the same crappy giant vinyl covering as your car. Tech ended up having to fill 16 holes from screws that held the vinyl trim on, in addition to plenty of adhesive.

I actually do not remember how the movable glass goes into those cars, but a giant percentage of door glasses go in from the bottom.

Edited by ocnblu
Posted

Maybe it would be best to take the track guide that separates the windows out. I'm not sure. I do like the top, I don't want to ruin it. The stupid design just frustrates me...well that and I broke the :censored: glass in the first place.

Posted

I'm just not sure how it comes out from teh top. I need to go look. Hopefully it's like the Prizm and it's just a screw holding it to the top of the door (and the bolt holding it in toward teh bottom of the door.

Not sure how to get it back in place one the window is in though.

Wish it was Monday...want to fix my mess ASAP.

Posted

Well my mistake cost me $35 at the yard today. Came out of a `98 or so GM...dunno exactly, it just said clunker on it. Wankers tried to charge me $50 but I got them down to the price they QUOTED me on when I called.

Got home an installed it. It was actually quite easy. I discovered at the yard that pulling the interior lower weather stripping leaves a bug gap along the entire window frame, so it was easy to slide in. For some reason, even though it lined up on the tracks it didn't seem to line up with the bolt holes on the regulator. I got it on but the window has a hard time moving up or down, sounds like either the motor will die or the cable will snap again. So I just helped push it up into place and left it at that. I don't care, as long as it stays up that's all that really matters. I can fiddle with it when its warm again if I really feel like it.

Also replaced one of the battery terminals, may have to do the other as well, and replaced the engine to firewall ground, which had come off and then became dust in my hand.

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