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Posted (edited)

Indeed it isn't. I have the entire weekend off, so I'm going to jack 'er up tomorrow, go over the flywheel and the trans area with a fine toothed comb, and start eliminating simple things before I put the blame squarely on the engine. I'm going to keep the Regal regardless of the outcome, but I'm probably going to let the engine and trans go for $900. Does that sound reasonable?

Edited by whiteknight
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Posted
4th gen T/A is plenty new enough - but a low-mile example would be a wise choice.

Without mods.

Maybe...

Stiffer front and rear swaybars, better shocks (Koni's perhaps), summer tires, Mobil 1 or Royal Purple in everything, cold air intake....That would be about it for me, methinks.

These cars were pretty dialed in from the factory.

Then again, 6 cyl Birds and Camaros are now stupid cheap. Nice cars under 80k...I've seen sell for 3K or so....

Chris

Posted
I'm with Samadei amd 66 on this.

Daily driving an old car is no big deal, the parameters are just different. You have to be proactive, and more importantly, patient. The payoff is in knowing the car better than you ever would a new one, and doing it without a monthly payment.

Is it for everyone?

Of course not.

But it is a viable (and enjoyable) way to go.

I drove the wheels off of my 66 Mustang Fastback. Drove the car over 700 miles the week before I sold it...

Drove my 71 Chevelle the same way...

Drove my 55 Chevrolet HARD...and it was 50 years old...

Older cars can be a lot of fun.

Chris

Posted

I would agree with you 100%, Camino. What I was sharing were my thoughts on the ideal 'bird...

..mild suspension upgrade/tuning and enjoy as is.

Chris

Posted (edited)

Trans Ams are everywhere ... besides KY.

http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/1436296778.html

I wish I could find something like that here.

Closest I've found were two T/As in Danville that weren't in as good of shape as that car is and were going for the same amount of coin. The guy has had them continuously listed on Craigslist since sometime early this year or late last year and still hasn't sold them. You would think that would be a nudge in his direction to lower their prices.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted

Reality and cars seldom go together.

Really beautiful 4th gen LT-1 car went for 6k here...but had a salvage title.

But it was in just amazing shape, and the accident it had been involved in had been fairly minor.

It was about the same color as the Bonneville I was talking about in the other thread...

SWEET car. I can see why you guys love that car that much.

Chris

Posted
Well IIRC, if it is an Olds engine and it needs to be junked, you'll need to get a different transmission as well if you plan on fitting an SBC in its place, because of the bolt pattern.
Posted
Well IIRC, if it is an Olds engine and it needs to be junked, you'll need to get a different transmission as well if you plan on fitting an SBC in its place, because of the bolt pattern.

My dad knows someone who has a Buick 350 and that's probably what I'll put back in its place if the engine has a serious problem that's expensive to fix.

Posted (edited)

This just keeps getting strange. I checked the valvetrain and it was working fine, checked what I could of the flywheel and it seemed to be ok. I know it's not a fouled spark plug or the timing chain. I can't, for the life of me, figure out where the hell this noise is coming from and it always seems to be coming from a different place, depending on where you're listening to it. If you stand dead center or off to the driver's side at the front of the car, it sounds like it's in the front of the engine around the water pump (like I said, it isn't the timing chain because the Regal isn't hard to start and it doesn't miss or skip time and a bad water pump shouldn't knock like this). It also sounds like it's near the firewall from the flywheel/torque converter over to the driver's side if you're sitting in the car or looking underneath it.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted

I rechecked the valvetrain on the passenger side of the engine and the valves squirt a little bit of oil in the direction of the inner fender at the number two cylinder. Something else I noticed in between checking the valvetrain is that the oil pressure is starting to fail; the PSI gauge bounces between 20 and 30.

Posted
Do you have a mechanic's stethoscope? Even a length of tube might help isolate the noise.

I don't but I'm probably going to pick one up. Even still, I'm kind of betting on the valvetrain at the number two cylinder being the root of the problem. Valves and lifters shouldn't squirt oil away from the engine. :P

Posted
I rechecked the valvetrain on the passenger side of the engine and the valves squirt a little bit of oil in the direction of the inner fender at the number two cylinder. Something else I noticed in between checking the valvetrain is that the oil pressure is starting to fail; the PSI gauge bounces between 20 and 30.

With the covers moved and the engine running, valves squirt oil EVERYWHERE. I always hated adjusting rockers and the resulting mess.

20-30 PSI isn't too bad for an older car. Keep in mind that most oil idiot lights don't come on until they hit 4 PSI.

Posted (edited)
With the covers moved and the engine running, valves squirt oil EVERYWHERE. I always hated adjusting rockers and the resulting mess.

The valves didn't squirt a drop of anything on the driver's side or on the rest of the passenger's side of the engine. Just the valves at the number two cylinder.

20-30 PSI isn't too bad for an older car. Keep in mind that most oil idiot lights don't come on until they hit 4 PSI.

Before the knock started, the PSI gauge would hold steady at about twenty and wouldn't budge an inch. It never bounced like it does now.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted
The valves didn't squirt a drop of anything on the driver's side or on the rest of the passenger's side of the engine. Just the valves at the number two cylinder.

Before the knock started, the PSI gauge would hold steady at about twenty and wouldn't budge an inch. It never bounced like it does now.

Hmmm... that's wierd. Makes me think number two is the working one... Its been a long time since I've needed to pull valve covers... but I own two sets of oil deflectors for a reason. Wonder if something is clogging a passageway to the top of the engine periodically... borderline oil starvation going from one valve to another might help explain why the noise moves.

What does the oil look like? Did you change it yet or was it recently changed by the past owner? Sometimes a past owner will change the oil to hide problems.

Posted
Hmmm... that's wierd. Makes me think number two is the working one... Its been a long time since I've needed to pull valve covers... but I own two sets of oil deflectors for a reason. Wonder if something is clogging a passageway to the top of the engine periodically... borderline oil starvation going from one valve to another might help explain why the noise moves.

The oil pump couldn't be at the root of this, could it?

What does the oil look like? Did you change it yet or was it recently changed by the past owner? Sometimes a past owner will change the oil to hide problems.

The oil is pretty dirty, about 80 percent black, and could stand to be changed. I actually was going to do that this weekend but then the engine shit the bed.

Posted (edited)

I'm with Samadei, it sounds like some oil passages are blocked. Oil should be squirting all over the place up and down the valvetrain. I'd pour in a can of motor flush, change the oil and filter, and see what happens. I've done this with success on older engines many times.

On the issue of locating the source of the sound, grab a huge screwdriver (a really long one) and rest it aginst any suspect location. Then put your ear up to the end of the plastic handle- works just like a stethoscope.

Edited by Camino LS6
Posted
The oil pump couldn't be at the root of this, could it?

Oil pumps spin fast enough that I don't think you would be able to see the pressure move that much... in general, oil pumps slowly wear and lose pressure or suck in something big and self destruct spectacularly.

The oil is pretty dirty, about 80 percent black, and could stand to be changed. I actually was going to do that this weekend but then the engine $h! the bed.

I'm with Samadei, it sounds like some oil passages are blocked. Oil should be squirting all over the place up and down the valvetrain. I'd pour in a can of motor flush, change the oil and filter, and see what happens. I've done this with success on older engines many times.

Yeah, I would change the oil using a flush, as well... I was going to suggest a flush, but wanted to see what the he thought of the oil's condition. Plus by changing the oil, he can ensure it has the proper weight in it.

Posted

I like the red one, myself, the one with 114K on it.

But I agree on a flush...you may want to flush it a couple of times using cheap oil.

For older motors (don't flame me, please!) I use Shell Rotella, which seems to be good oil, reasonable cost, and works fine in gasser motors as well as diesels.

If nothing else, maybe the cam is wiped in the Buick motor. If everything else checks out Okay...time for a perfromance upgrade perhaps?

You Buick is acting a bit like my 66 Mustang Fastback did , when the cam had issues. Change of cam and she ran great for 5 more years.

Chris

Posted (edited)
"Rebuilt Title" means it was branded as a total loss and fixed, please stay away from that one.

I know. However, my dad did have a '88 S-15 that had a rebuilt title (I believe the truck was involved in a rollover at 5,000 miles) and he managed to milk almost 10 years and 200,000 miles out of it. It really depends on if whoever rebuilt it did it right. It's a risk that I am, however, not 100 percent willing to take but willing to consider.

I like the red one, myself, the one with 114K on it.

I like the Firehawk the best out of all three of them, but I really don't want another red car. The black T/A in Mt. Juliet, TN is what I'm leaning to at the moment, should I decide to buy another car.

The Buick is going to have to be my long-term project. I'm just going to buy another car I like and, after that, save up the money for another engine. I'll probably buy a manual and rebuild the Rocket 350 and jam that in another Cutlass like I originally planned (but definitely not as soon as I first thought).

Edited by whiteknight
Posted

You know, I think I have a plan about what to do to get a T/A.

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/1438257776.html

I'm going to check out that V6 4th gen in the next few days. If the motor and transmission are sound, I'll polish up some of the rough edges and turn around and sell it for profit. Maybe I could get another thousand to fifteen-hundred bucks out of it if I improve it's appearance a bit. I'll just have to wait and see.

For the record, here is one in worse condition for $1,050 bucks more:

http://lexington.craigslist.org/cto/1437808770.html

Posted

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll buy that $800 dollar Firebird, provided that I can drive it when I first get the chance. Hopefully the exterior is the worst thing about it.

Posted (edited)

Back to the Buick, I have two suggestions as to what the problem might be:

"My sbc 350 in my malibu started having the same problem. It developed a knock after it overheated one time. The problem that we came to was a collapsed lifter. My oil pressure used to be 20-40 psi on the street but now barely gets 22 psi on the highway now. A lot of times its 1 out of the 16 lifters in the valley."

"sounds kinda like you got a main bearing spinning in the journal of the block and your oil pressure is fluctuating because of it, the knock is probably the rod jumping up and down on the loose rod journal next to the bad main journal... more than likely numbere 1,or2 cylinders..."

Number two sounds like it could be exactly what's going on, in fact I would just about bet money on it. It makes sense because of all of the "something's loose in the engine" comments I've been getting.

If that's the case, then the Buick's the new long-termer.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted
My fav. TA's are the Dark Green 4th gen cars. VERY sharp, IMHO.

Would LOVE to own one of those.

Chris

Yup with tan leather and gold cross-lace wheels, and the GTA package of course.

Posted
The more I think about it, the more I think I'll buy that $800 dollar Firebird, provided that I can drive it when I first get the chance. Hopefully the exterior is the worst thing about it.

Careful - for $800 you can probably fix the Regal yourself even in a worst case scenario, and not add another potential money pit to your fleet.

Posted (edited)
Careful - for $800 you can probably fix the Regal yourself even in a worst case scenario, and not add another potential money pit to your fleet.

Right now, it's looking like I won't be fixing the Regal on the affordable side anytime soon.

I'm really stumped about what to do. I could let the Regal go, but I really don't want to and I really don't think anyone else would buy it. I could sell the engine and trans, but it wouldn't bring much money and wouldn't be worth the trouble of trying to get it out of the car.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted (edited)
My two cents would be to fix the regal first...

I would if I allowed myself a bigger budget. That and I can't really afford the downtime while the engine is rebuilt. A DD is of the utmost importance right now.

There is another option besides rebuilding the engine. I know someone who has an Olds 455 that would drop right in for $200 bucks. I'm hesitant because I would be taking another chance on an unfamiliar engine in an unknown condition. Honestly, while a 455 would be nice, I'm content with a 350. A 455 would rape my wallet at the pump.

I wouldn't keep that '94 Firebird anyway. If the exterior is the worst part about it and the miles are under 160k, I'd correct its cosmetic issues and sell it for a decent profit that could go towards either the Regal or another DD, depending on what course of action seems to be the best at the time.

I'm going to check out the Firebird Wednesday if I'm still away from work.

Edited by whiteknight
Posted
I would if I allowed myself a bigger budget. That and I can't really afford the downtime while the engine is rebuilt. A DD is of the utmost importance right now.

There is another option besides rebuilding the engine. I know someone who has an Olds 455 that would drop right in for $200 bucks. I'm hesitant because I would be taking another chance on an unfamiliar engine in an unknown condition. Honestly, while a 455 would be nice, I'm content with a 350. A 455 would rape my wallet at the pump.

I wouldn't keep that '94 Firebird anyway. If the exterior is the worst part about it and the miles are under 160k, I'd correct its cosmetic issues and sell it for a decent profit that could go towards either the Regal or another DD, depending on what course of action seems to be the best at the time.

I'm going to check out the Firebird Wednesday if I'm still away from work.

wishful thinker is wishful

Posted

Yeah...an idea: fix the damn car and make it drivable rather than getting rid of this one because it has a problem. I mean if you think that Fireturd is going to be a better car you're in for a big surprise.

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