Get this gunk out!

[Intrepidation]

As you may know, my engine conversion went well besides the junk radiator nearly destroying everything.

Managed to get the gunk out of the oil, it checks clear every time now. However it's still in the cooling system. The day it happened a garden hose was used for 2 hours to get it out, but while a lot it out, there's still goop showing up.

Is there a cleaner to get this out? Or can a shop get it out? Monday I may just take it down and see, but preemptive advice would be appreciated.

Once this is taken care of and I replace the plenum, I should be all set, but it just sucks that a $h!ty radiator caused this unnecessary mess. Next time I'm buying a brand new one.

[Intrepidation]

Try some foamy engine bright. Spray it on, let it sit for 15 minutes then hose/wipe it away. That stuff is freash so it shouldn't be too hard to clean off.

No I mean get it out of the cooling system.

Although I'll keep that in mind for the outside.

[fightingbee]

A coolant flush with a machine is probably the best way, but I have heard of effectively flushing oil filled cooling systems of SOHC Saturn S-series after a cracked head job y running it for a while with dishwashing soap and hot water, than flushing that out until clear.

There was also the Prestone cooling flush that came as two powders in a can that was really heavy duty stuff, but none of the parts stores seem to carry the stuff anymore. It was popular for flushing Dexcool sludge from 4.3L V-6 S-10s/Blazers for quite a while.

Edited July 12, 2009 by fightingbee

[Intrepidation]

A coolant flush with a machine is probably the best way, but I have heard of effectively flushing oil filled cooling systems of SOHC Saturn S-series after a cracked head job y running it for a while with dishwashing soap and hot water, than flushing that out until clear.

There was also the Prestone cooling flush that came as two powders in a can that was really heavy duty stuff, but none of the parts stores seem to carry the stuff anymore. It was popular for flushing Dexcool sludge from 4.3L V-6 S-10s/Blazers for quite a while.

Interesting.

Someone on LHforums said they did this once with a Saab. They used a cap full of heavy duty floor cleaner and ran the car for 20 minutes and that got it out.

[fightingbee]

Interesting.

Someone on LHforums said they did this once with a Saab. They used a cap full of heavy duty floor cleaner and ran the car for 20 minutes and that got it out.

Saturn actually did have a similar service manual recommendation using powdered dishwasher soap too. I almost forgot about that. Dawn liquid was the other one I have heard of being used beforeby DIYers.

Excerpt from an S-Series service manual:

If the engine has had a failure resulting in the contamination of the cooling system with lubricating oil, or a substance other than a recommended antifreeze has been added, the following procedure is recommended.

The cooling system holds approximately two gallons of coolant.

Prepare a mixture of Calgon® automatic dishwasher detergent or equivalent, and water at the ratio of two ounces (dry measure) to 3.8 liters (1 gal) of water.

The vehicle has two drains: one located in the lower right hand side of the radiator and the other one located directly under the thermostat housing.

Remove the coolant surge tank cap and drain the cooling system.

Remove the engine thermostat to permit the Calgon® or equivalent and water mixture to circulate through the engine and the radiator.

Fill the cooling system with the Calgon® or equivalent solution.

Run the engine for 5 minutes.

Drain the cooling system.

Repeat Steps 4-6.

Fill the cooling system with clean water.

Let the engine run 5 minutes.

Notice: If the cooling system has been contaminated by oil, replacement of the thermostat and water pump is required. (IMO just the t-stat would be enough)

Drain the cooling system completely.

Install the new engine thermostat. Refer to Engine Coolant Thermostat Replacement .

Install the new water pump. Refer to Water Pump Replacement .

Install the cylinder block drain plug.

Tighten the cylinder block drain plugs to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).

Close the radiator drain plug.

Important: The vehicle must be level when filling with coolant.

Fill the system to the FULL COLD range with coolant. Use a 50/50 solution of Dex-Cool™ antifreeze and clean water.

Run the engine until the upper radiator hose is hot, then add additional coolant, if needed, to bring the level to the FULL COLD range.

Install the coolant surge tank cap and check for leaks.

[SAmadei]

Interesting.

Someone on LHforums said they did this once with a Saab. They used a cap full of heavy duty floor cleaner and ran the car for 20 minutes and that got it out.

Yeah, assuming you're not running the cleaner for weeks, I think a short run followed by a flush would work well.

I want to know how to stop GM blocks from turning my coolant rust brown. Pisses me off to flush a engine for a couple of hours... top off with antifreeze and the next day it seems like the radiator is full of rusty water again.

[Intrepidation]

Saturn actually did have a similar service manual recommendation using powdered dishwasher soap too. I almost forgot about that. Dawn liquid was the other one I have heard of being used beforeby DIYers.

Excerpt from an S-Series service manual:

If the engine has had a failure resulting in the contamination of the cooling system with lubricating oil, or a substance other than a recommended antifreeze has been added, the following procedure is recommended.

The cooling system holds approximately two gallons of coolant.

Prepare a mixture of Calgon® automatic dishwasher detergent or equivalent, and water at the ratio of two ounces (dry measure) to 3.8 liters (1 gal) of water.

The vehicle has two drains: one located in the lower right hand side of the radiator and the other one located directly under the thermostat housing.

Remove the coolant surge tank cap and drain the cooling system.

Remove the engine thermostat to permit the Calgon® or equivalent and water mixture to circulate through the engine and the radiator.

Fill the cooling system with the Calgon® or equivalent solution.

Run the engine for 5 minutes.

Drain the cooling system.

Repeat Steps 4-6.

Fill the cooling system with clean water.

Let the engine run 5 minutes.

Notice: If the cooling system has been contaminated by oil, replacement of the thermostat and water pump is required. (IMO just the t-stat would be enough)

Drain the cooling system completely.

Install the new engine thermostat. Refer to Engine Coolant Thermostat Replacement .

Install the new water pump. Refer to Water Pump Replacement .

Install the cylinder block drain plug.

Tighten the cylinder block drain plugs to 35 N·m (26 lb ft).

Close the radiator drain plug.

Important: The vehicle must be level when filling with coolant.

Fill the system to the FULL COLD range with coolant. Use a 50/50 solution of Dex-Cool™ antifreeze and clean water.

Run the engine until the upper radiator hose is hot, then add additional coolant, if needed, to bring the level to the FULL COLD range.

Install the coolant surge tank cap and check for leaks.

Cool info...yeah I hope I wouldn't have to replace the waterpump...that's brand new!

[Intrepidation]

Well, I followed the instructions listed above, then filled it with 50/50 water/Chrysler antifreeze.

The thermostat is a royal PITA to get at.

Anyway, drove it 20 miles or so after that. Just checked the coolant reservoir. It looks much better now, like it should. However, it looked like their were some particles in there still.