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Posted

I finally stole a few minutes to start diagnosing the driveline clunk this afternoon. I put the Blazer up on jackstands, fired it up, put it in gear, and let it idle , spinning the wheels. I got out and listened to where the noise was coming from.

The good news is that it isn't the transfer case.

The bad news is that it's the rear diff.

I may start taking it apart tonight.

I dropped by the dealership and had them look up all the option codes/history using the VIN.

So I may need a 3.42 locking rear.

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Posted (edited)
Now I need to decide a real course of action.

1) Remove driveshaft

2) Put lever into 4wd

3) Drive around in FWD Tahoe

Edit: You get any pics of that weird hinge rust?

Edited by Satty
Posted
1) Remove driveshaft

2) Put lever into 4wd

3) Drive around in FWD Tahoe

Edit: You get any pics of that weird hinge rust?

HA!

You read my mind, Satty. If I decide not to do the repair here, that's exactly how it will get to the shop!

No pics of the hinge rust yet - I'll attack that after this problem is solved.

I promise to post pics.

Posted

You think this is funny...but several years ago I worked a second part time job at auto zone. We had an enraged customer who came in just screaming because the tourque converter he'd put back together with jb weld had come apart.

Nice looking truck, Camino.

Chris

Posted

A little late, but congrats on the truck Camino! Nice to see a rare 5-spd combo in good hands.

Speaking of JB Weld and Duct Tape, one of my favorite parts from Gran Torino is when Walt is getting Tao started off with tools for his construction job, and hands him a can of WD-40, a vice grip, and roll of duct tape and says "any man worth his salt can fix just about anything with these three things."

Posted

Are they the same across the GMT-400 line, or does the shorty Blazer/Jimmy have its own specific unit?

Posted

Are they the same across the GMT-400 line, or do the shorty SUVs have their own specific unit?

Posted

There are a number that could be in it as far as locker/non-locker, ratio, and so on. But most, if not all, half tons (truck,Blazer/Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon) use the same basic 10-bolt unit.

Mine has a locker and the 3.42 ratio.

Posted
A little late, but congrats on the truck Camino! Nice to see a rare 5-spd combo in good hands.

Speaking of JB Weld and Duct Tape, one of my favorite parts from Gran Torino is when Walt is getting Tao started off with tools for his construction job, and hands him a can of WD-40, a vice grip, and roll of duct tape and says "any man worth his salt can fix just about anything with these three things."

Gran Torino is one of the best movies of the last couple years IMHO...the car didn'tn hurt, but the story and acting were very good...

Saw it with the local VW club and we all liked it...

Chris

Posted
I found a whole rear with new guts (bearings, seals, ring and pinion, even new wheel cylinders and brakes).

For $400.

Sounds like a winning plan to me. WTF made it self destruct like that anyways?

Chris

So I think I'll go that route.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Done-ski

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well, I'm planning to go check out that rear I posted about oh so long ago. I'll take some measurements and a pic or two and give the guy a call in the morning to try to verify that it is the right one.

Then it will be an hour and 20 minute ride to go get it.

I'll post pics if it works out.

Posted (edited)

Yeah, what a PITA!

I ended up doing it the very hard way - through the breather tube.

It was like trying to force honey through the world's slowest funnel, it took hours to get 2.5 quarts into the damned thing.

But it's done, and a quck test drive says everything works.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Edited by Camino LS6
Posted

How does thre fill plug come out? Would saturating it in rust penetrant and letting it sit overnight buy you anything...you know, for next time :wink:

I'm glad to hear it's running and driving. I'll go out on a limb and say it won't be long before you talk yourself out of the idea of flipping it.

Posted

The fill plug is threaded into the side of the housing and can (usually) be unscrewed using a 3/8" extension stuck into the square recess in the center and a rachet.

Tried the best penetrant I know of (a GM item BTW), to no avail. I guess I'll have a shop use a torch to get it out eventually.

As for flipping it, I really don't have much choice.

If I did...

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