Stalling for No Reason!!!!!

[capriceman]

:( :( :( :( :( Yester day night in the rain i let my car warm up for about 5 minutes got out of the sub and normaly accelerated to 30 mph. Once i reached 30 I backed down a little the car went in to passing gear an it stalled. I quickly pulled in to this school parking lot. O yeah making a turn at 25 with no power steering sucks. Almost hit fence. Then tried to stop with no power brakes, again sucks, almost hit parking blocks. No major lights went on just Bat. Check engine and oil press. They come on when you turn your car on. so i tryed starting no luck. pushed car in N to get rolling start no luck. pushed in to space and walked home. came back 1/2 hour later fired right up???????? why? I looked under the hood for damaged spark plug wires or anything obvious. :huh: :blink: What do you think it is? The Batt is good and Alternator is good. Is it fuel pump Dist. Cap (distrubuter) any sensors. Its a 90 Caprice with 305 no major computer controlled crap. its throttle body. It didn't seem flooded as I tryed the methods and smelt inside the Airfilter Body. Should i go get it looked at. Im stumped really. <_< Is it freak? Can I go on in life? Is my beast finaly going? Has this happened to any one else? HEEELLLPPP MEEEEEE????????

[loki]

a friend's uncle had a late 80's caprice(friend drove it while uncle was in middle east) that kinda did the same thing....had to replace a control module i believe.... i'll ask him nexty time i see him, and try to be more precise w/ my answer. maybe that'll help. oh, and if it was related or not..it happened when it was slightly warm outside...august i believe. living in SE missouri

[NotDadsW41]

I'd start checking for loose grounds under the hood. My 89 would do this once in a while. That time it turned out to be a power wire that ran to the fuel pump relay, under the hood on the firewall, had worked it's way loose. Always start with the simple stuff first.....

[2005 EquinoxLS]

Look at the igition moduale before anything else.

[Cremazie]

Look at the igition moduale before anything else.

[post="45554"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]

I know that it is a part that causes huge problems 305's in PU's, I would take a serious look. (little box near distributor) Also could be the cap and rotor button, cracks in the distributor could cause misery in the rain.

[Sixty8panther]

Yup, this will most likely be a really silly na seemingly insignificant component. Ignition Module, Rotor & cap... something obvious like that. Ground wire? Fuel Pump?

[capriceman]

I just took it on a 1500 mile road trip no problem. hmmmm just ill wait and see if it happens again. and all start checking alll that crap and start replacing stuff.

[NOS2006]

If the CEL is on, I'd do just that.. check it! Rent a scanner from a local autostore.

[Buickfosure]

My 87 buick century used to do that regularly leaving a code 41 which is cam sensor, computer or crank sensor. Had many mechanics stumped including me so went up to the junk yard and picked up a computer and to murrys and got a cam and crank sensor. Funny thing worked fine for about a month then back to the old backfiring and jerking on the freeway. Then stalling out and not starting for 10 15 minutes. And Capriceman yeah losing power steering and power brakes can get you in some deep crap exspecially right as you are approaching a red light or making a turn in a narrow driveway. Edited November 21, 2005 by reeferman

[capriceman]

My 87 buick century used to do that regularly leaving a code 41 which is cam sensor, computer or crank sensor.  Had many mechanics stumped including me so went up to the junk yard and picked up a computer and to murrys and got a cam and crank sensor.  Funny thing worked fine for about a month then back to the old backfiring and jerking on the freeway.  Then stalling out and not starting for 10 15 minutes.  And Capriceman yeah losing power steering and power brakes can get you in some deep crap exspecially right as you are approaching a red light or making a turn in a narrow driveway.

[post="45767"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]

If your car missfires and jerks and stuff I think you should let it go. It probably had some rust and and primer in the board shorting it out. :P And yeah No power brakes and steering totaly suck ASS majorly.

do you really smoke Pot reeferman????? DO you spend hours a day going to pot-tv.net or plan to go to the tokker bowl??

But yeah Fly I might go get a checker?

[Buickfosure]

Take it up to the Autozone on Gratiot towards 15 mile. They will read the codes using a jumper and they can tell you what it means for free. So it doesn't cost you anything and if it did leave a code you can replace or check whatever it is that may have caused your stalling. If you want you can check yourself using a paperclip but since autozone does it free don't even bother. Edited November 21, 2005 by reeferman

[PontiacTechNJ]

Take it up to the Autozone on Gratiot towards 15 mile.  They will read the codes using a jumper and they can tell you what it means for free.  So it doesn't cost you anything and if it did leave a code you can replace or check whatever it is that may have caused your stalling.  If you want you can check yourself using a paperclip but since autozone does it free don't even bother.

[post="46223"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]

WOW , you trust some guy that will check you codes for free ? Is he an ASE certified auto technician or some guy riding the parts counter .

Older TBI engines have a great way to tell if the coil is bad , pull up the coil wire from the coil tower and if there is rust or white chalky residue on the tower , you got a bad coil , also look for oil or yuckies under the dist cap . You can ground A-B on the aldl connector , but this doesn't usually set codes . Let the guy at autozone make you a sandwich or something - leave diagnosis to REAL MECHANICS

[capriceman]

WOW , you trust some guy that will check you codes for free ? Is he an ASE certified auto technician or some guy riding the parts counter .

Older TBI engines have a great way to tell if the coil is bad , pull up the coil wire from the coil tower and if there is rust or white chalky residue on the tower , you got a bad coil , also look for oil or yuckies under the dist cap . You can ground A-B on the aldl connector , but this doesn't usually set codes . Let the guy at autozone make you a sandwich or something - leave diagnosis to REAL MECHANICS

[post="51984"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post]

LOL Thats what i thought.

I put a New Cap and rotor on it has been runing good actualy even smother and more power, but i lost my cool thoaty exhaust :( .(Can some one Explain that). The Coil Wires and Plugs are the next to go. When it gets warm one day to fix them. But Thanks I will look for rust and Chalkyness.