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Posted

Glad to see this thing still kicking around...I have decided that I would like something with more power and more of a "touring car" than the Miata, so I am thinking about buying another car next year. Volvo C30, Camaro, VW GTI, something along those lines.

The Dodge looks GOOD...sweet car....

Posted

Yikes @ those front struts!

You may want to get the rears addressed sooner rather than later. Having a properly firm front setup with an old and saggy rear could cause handling abnormalities in stressful situations.

  • Agree 1
Posted

It's next on the list, but unless I autocross it like some people, I'm not worried about handling issues. The key is that both left and right sides of one end are replaced at once.

  • Agree 1
Posted

Yikes @ those front struts!

You may want to get the rears addressed sooner rather than later. Having a properly firm front setup with an old and saggy rear could cause handling abnormalities in stressful situations.

Olds unless the springs are replaced on the strut which would not be necessary the ride height would not change. Springs support shocks/strut cartridges dampen.
Posted

Wow, DF. Glad to see you're still kicking around and continuing to improve that Intrepid. It's amazing the transformation of that car over the last few years. Pretty fun to follow the story and I would assume much more fun to do the work. Keep us posted.

Posted

It's next on the list, but unless I autocross it like some people, I'm not worried about handling issues. The key is that both left and right sides of one end are replaced at once.

I was meaning more in an emergency situation.

Posted

It's next on the list, but unless I autocross it like some people, I'm not worried about handling issues. The key is that both left and right sides of one end are replaced at once.

Even though your not gonna autocross it...I think you will b e a much happier boy when the rears are done...that being said, I need to do this to the wife's crap box...

It's next on the list, but unless I autocross it like some people, I'm not worried about handling issues. The key is that both left and right sides of one end are replaced at once.

I was meaning more in an emergency situation.

I agree with you...although these cars still handle really well with worn out suspension. My Concorde drove great at 200K...

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Nice to see this kind of work being put in on the Intrepid. Would love to see it stanced, y0! And with a raunchier exhaust of course.

I like this one by MOMO...seems tasteful.

momo_automatic_shift-o0Pa6126f12-1.jpg

That is a sexy one. Might have to consider it for the Volvo if the stock one (itself a sporty piece) ever breaks.

Its like the Intrepid rejected the donor heart!

I really feel for you, 'cause you know I had simular circumstances with my poor Achieva.

Oil+coolant = satans sludge.

Coolant and ATF mixing is probably even worse. Was looking at this guy's 740 wagon, courting it for weeks, and we finally go to get it inspected, only for me to learn that coolant was all inside the tranny. Needless to say, I just kept looking.

Manufacturers really need to stop putting coolers of other fluids inside radiators. It's a recipe for disaster. Hopefully the recent Nissan Pathfinder story is the last of such idiocy

QUOTE (Camino LS6)

I miss having good junkyards around.

You aren't the only one. Finding parts for the Monte around here is a dismal experience.

Owners of those basically say why lose dough selling whole cars to boneyards when they can part them out themselves and make way more. Not to mention those cars will now more likely be rescued from scrapping situations at this point. Those vintages are just worth too much now.

Junkyards are with few exceptions now serving your average 92 Camry or 98 Taurus.

It is a bit of a shame that the majority of them end up pretty beat up and/or otherwise not cared for, I think that's partly due to the fact that most of them have low resale value, so they make cheap family cars, which is great but odds are people buying cars on the cheap aren't the best caregivers. However, as I've discovered, there's plenty of people who do take care of and love them.

This whole deal here is how Volvo seekers get lucky. They were expensive when new, but command nowhere near the used prices that, say, Toyotas do. Not to mention they have less miles and tend to be nowhere near as thrashed in many cases. But like every brand, at their cheapest, some major repair is often in order that put the thing up for sale in the first place. Ultimately, with those and the garden variety hipster and mommy beaters notwithstanding, plenty of plum examples at the nice price.

Posted

Thanks LA!

More work to come, as I'm getting ready to redo the air conditioning system. I've got the expansion vale, drier, and evaporator core (the most time consuming part of this job) and a Denso compressor on order.

All I need to get started is decent weather and some time.

Then I plan to get rear struts, sway bar links and bushings all the way around, and finally a new set of tires. I'm thinking Eagle GTs like what Devan has for his Vision.

Lots of fun in store!

Posted

You might look at BF good rich G force Touring tires...had them on the Miata...incredible grip and handling, great tire wear (unless you try to drive it sideways through cones every Sunday, of course) good in the rain...

I really liked those tires.

Also have had good luck with Pireli P6 as a decent handling all season tire.

Posted

Glad you're enjoying it!

My compressor came in today. Denso OEM replacement. I didn't want to cheap out on some Chinese remanufactured piece of junk (although to be fair the Tough One new compressor in the Mercury has been good so far, but still). I've now got the Compressor, Evaporator Core (the most time consuming part of this project), the expansion valve, and the drier. I may replace the low pressure line, depending on the condition where it rests on the frame rail. If it looks good I'll leave it.

IMG_9266.jpg

If the weather holds out I'd like to at least get started this weekend.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

A weekend delayed, but regardless, the "fun" has begun.

I've gotten the dash out. Took about 3 hours. I need to get the HVAC module out, and then I can crack the egg and see what that evaporator looks like. I'm very tempted to replace the heater core while I'm there, and as such, I've got one on order for tomorrow.

I took craploads but they're for reference so I can refer to them when reassembly begins. There's only one that needs to be posted for now:

IMG_9357.jpg

Posted

Wow...brave to take the dash out like that...I'd be afraid I'd never get it put back together correctly if I tried something like that.

Posted

I am so tired.

It's not done yet, but the upper half of the dash is back in and rewired. I'm hoping to wrap things up tomorrow before work. I have to replace the compressor and drier, then put everything back together.

Here's the evaporator cores. Guess which is the old one?

post-1757-0-82886200-1339383604_thumb.jp

Here's the heater cores. Guess which is the old one?

post-1757-0-67931600-1339383190_thumb.jp

If you guessed the one on the right, you'd be wrong. That ugly piece of crap is the new one. I'm going to stick with the one I've got and return this shoddy looking thing.

post-1757-0-95638500-1339383194_thumb.jp

Posted

The second part of this big project is finally done. Had a few hours this morning before work to replace the compressor, drier, and expansion valve.

post-1757-0-13854300-1339435896_thumb.jp

New and old side by side. Clutch is gone on the old one.

post-1757-0-06502200-1339435901_thumb.jp

Annoyingly, even though this is a brand new, OEM compressor, the valve bodies are different, and I had to reuse the old one. Considering how much this was and was made by Denso, it really should have come with a new one, not instructions how to swap your old one.

Oh well...

post-1757-0-37104100-1339435905_thumb.jp

And here's everything hooked up...

post-1757-0-66354800-1339435908_thumb.jp

post-1757-0-13593700-1339435911_thumb.jp

So now I need to put the engine bay back together, finish putting the interior back together, and put a belt on teh compressor, and it'll be time for the big test...

Posted

Dodgefan nice job on all the work you have done so far to date on your car. Very impressive.

I am shocked to what the road salts do to a car back there. We do not use roadsalt here in Seattle,but then you either have AWD for winter or do not drive when it snows as they use worthless Enviromental Green liquid solution.

But the salt really ate up your suspension.

Again, my compliments to you on an outstanding job on your project car. Happy Motoring.

Posted

Did you spray paint it or try a DIY powder coating on the intake?

Hightemp spray paint. I think my problem was two-fold. I don't think teh surface was as well prepped as it should have been, and that high-temp enamel is probably not ideal for plastic.

Boy!

Was I ever out of date on this project.

Really good to see all that you've done since last I checked.

Nice job so far.

Thanks!

Dodgefan nice job on all the work you have done so far to date on your car. Very impressive.

I am shocked to what the road salts do to a car back there. We do not use roadsalt here in Seattle,but then you either have AWD for winter or do not drive when it snows as they use worthless Enviromental Green liquid solution.

But the salt really ate up your suspension.

Again, my compliments to you on an outstanding job on your project car. Happy Motoring.

Yeah isn't was pretty bad, but then those were likely original struts. 200k out of the originals isn't bad when recommended replacement for shocks and struts is 50,000 miles. Happily, the body of the car doesn't have rust issues.

Posted

One good reason to live somewhere like Seattle VS. Ohio...

Salt destroys cars, the MINI is going in the garage for a long winters nap at thanksgiving.

Posted (edited)

Your C6 thread notwithstanding... :lol:

Yes, DF's done a hell of a job with his car.

Edited by ocnblu
Posted

Never.

I like it with the V6, actually.

That 3.5 is a strong mill, should be lots O fun!

That and the fact that the only V8s that would barely fit are such powerhouses as the 318. No Hemi would fit.

Yesterday during reassembly I accidentally sheared one of the bolts that hold the steering column to the dash. I was pretty pissed. Ran to the store and got a screw extractor. drill bit that came with it snapped as soon as I turned the drill on. I even more pretty pissed. When I got another drill bit to try again the I notice the bolt turn. To my great relief it wasn't stuck, the head just snapped off, so I used the drill bit to back the bolt out.

Today I put the a/c belt on, that was fun. Tensioner pulley adjusting bolt was seized for the serpentine belt. Had to take the whole assembly apart, free it, then apply a healthy dose of anti-seize.

led the coolant system. That was also fun. It uses a bleeder screw like on a caliper. I've heard horror stories of this screw seizing to the aluminum manifold, and braking the manifold and falling in when an attempt is made to free it. I soaked it with PB Blaster the night before and happily it came free no problem, at which point I put some anti-seize on that as well.

There was definitely some air in the system, seems to be all out now. The coolant looks like fruit punch, nice and red and clean, so that makes me happy. Everything seems to work, no leaks.

I think its finally done and ready to be brought over for a vacuum test and if all goes well a charge.

Posted

Excellent....maybe in 78 years you tube will have a video of you and the Intrepid like they did that lady and her Packard!

Posted

Here is a neat link to another FWD Mopar project car....

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/neon-acr-coupe-2012-challengedd-build/50461/page1/

neon015.jpg

I'm not posting this to derail the thread or steal DF"s thunder...I"m posting this because I think these modern car restification projects are wicked cool!

Posted

I've sen people get North of 300 horsepower out of those little Neons. of course to say they torque steer a bit is like saying an International LoneStar leans a bit in the corners.

Anyway, this project has come to a close, and the result is air conditioning that puts out air that's 29 degrees colder than the ambient temperature. 8)

To say I'm thrilled is an understatement, as I've wanted to fix the a/c for five years or so now.

post-1757-0-99773500-1339810414_thumb.jp

post-1757-0-13824100-1339810417_thumb.jp

I made some improvements during reassembly with regards to the glove box. The plastic frame tended to rattle against the dash plastic it mounted to, so I applied weatherstripping between the panels. It's no new car but there's no longer any rattles coming from the glovebox.

Posted

Looks great inside after the reassembly. Cold A/C is a great thing to have...I got one of those recharge cans to try and get mine a bit colder..not as cold as new anymore.

Posted

are you just missing some glove box bumpers?

No, this is on the backside of the frame.

Looks great inside after the reassembly. Cold A/C is a great thing to have...I got one of those recharge cans to try and get mine a bit colder..not as cold as new anymore.

Thanks! Oh man I love it. I haven't turned it off since getting it back together. :P

Posted

Ugh, we are headed for a heat-wave this week, and I have no A/C in the Tahoe...

Envy.

Yeah, they're saying highs near 100. Its going to kill any motivation I have to work outside, but it'll be a great test for the a/c, which I've only turned off once so far. :P

Posted

Looks great inside after the reassembly. Cold A/C is a great thing to have...I got one of those recharge cans to try and get mine a bit colder..not as cold as new anymore.

The problem with the recharge cans is that they contain oils and sealer... the R134A (or R12) will escape the system and leave the rest behind... and there is not a lot of volume in modern systems, anyway, so you can only top off a system a couple times before you really need to evacuate the whole system and start new.

Posted

Looks great inside after the reassembly. Cold A/C is a great thing to have...I got one of those recharge cans to try and get mine a bit colder..not as cold as new anymore.

The problem with the recharge cans is that they contain oils and sealer... the R134A (or R12) will escape the system and leave the rest behind... and there is not a lot of volume in modern systems, anyway, so you can only top off a system a couple times before you really need to evacuate the whole system and start new.

Thought I'd give it a try before going to the shop..never had any service on the A/C before, this is it's 13th summer..still cold, but not new-car cold..

Posted

Did you spray paint it or try a DIY powder coating on the intake?

Hightemp spray paint. I think my problem was two-fold. I don't think teh surface was as well prepped as it should have been, and that high-temp enamel is probably not ideal for plastic.

That's a plastic intake?!? Looked like alloy in the photo... but I didn't look too hard. Some of those high-temp enamels require high temps to cure properly... and no intake is going to get hot enough. If the plastic is able to be scuffed, I would prime it and hit it with regular enamel. Not sure I'd DIY powder coat plastic.

Yesterday during reassembly I accidentally sheared one of the bolts that hold the steering column to the dash. I was pretty pissed. Ran to the store and got a screw extractor. drill bit that came with it snapped as soon as I turned the drill on. I even more pretty pissed. When I got another drill bit to try again the I notice the bolt turn. To my great relief it wasn't stuck, the head just snapped off, so I used the drill bit to back the bolt out.

Ugh. This is where you need the Harbor Freight $99 MIG (sometimes on sale for $89)... that's about 6~7 extractor kits. I don't use the extractor kits anymore, as they almost ALWAYS break and make the problem worse. Using the MIG to build up bolts has been great... plus the high heat shrinks the threaded part, so many times they come out finger loose.

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