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Posted

About that Valium-

My little electrical problem has spread beyond the ABS and Radio to the turn signals, where the electrical fault is causing the blinkers on one side to go crazy fast while the 4-Ways and Right Turn Signals are fine. I've already checked the obvious (bulbs/Fuses) once again, and everything is fine. So now depending on where my foot is on the floor, my turn signals might work, or they might not.

It gets more interesting- now, intermittently, when I lock or unlock the power locks, the locks go crazy and they unlock, lock, unlock, and lock again in random succession. I have to wait for them to stop to be able to gain access to the car from the outside.

It will be poetically sweet when one day my Cavalier will cease to let me in at all :lol:

Any Ideas?

Posted (edited)
Besides a cliff? :P

Or an exorcist? :smilewide:

I don't think even 1980s British Leyland or Fiat could produce a car with that many electrical gremlins.

Edited by YellowJacket894
Posted (edited)

I don't know- maybe come November or so, I'll crunch the numbers. I might be able to finance an off lease Cobalt LT Sedan, or do a 3-Year Lease on a new Cobalt, so I'm not replacing any more nuisance items.

I get my dad's 2007 Impala LS in two and a half years, or I'll get my Granddad's 2007 Impala LS (identical cars except for colour) sooner if the Province of Alberta decides he shouldn't drive any more before then. Otherwise, I need a sane solution. Two more years of this torture will just give me a peptic ulcer so I'm not sure at all. I'd be willing to commit to a 2-Year lease on a basic 4-Banger with warranty because at this rate I'd be paying less monthly for that than the repairs that just keep piling on until an Impala is ready for me.

I had to have the radio wired completely independently of the rest of the car just to get it to work. Something's seriously screwed up, and it's now screwed up my Turn Signals, Door Locks, Radio, ABS Sensor, Parking Brake and other Warning Lights. When something serious gets screwed, then I'll find the problem and fix it but until then, I've had enough of 500+$ Repair Bills, monthly.

Edited by vonVeezelsnider
Posted

290/Mo Smartlease @ MSRP (actual would be cheaper then, I figure knock about 2 Large off of the MSRP)

2008 Cobalt LT Sedan

Power Windows

Power Locks

XM

Onstar

Head Curtains

Keyless Entry

Block Heater

ABS

Automatic Transmission

Cruise Control

:scratchchin:

Posted

Set it on fire.... :)

Judging by the fact that it is all over-chances are good that you have a wire (maybe a few) that are going bad.

Three new wires on my friend's 2000 Cav fixed everything....and he had problems like yours.....

Problem is, they are a PITA to fix.

Posted

Electrical stuff is a PITA for sure. Anything involving the interior is high in labor costs. I remember the dealer wanting to charge me over $200 to change a light bulb in my gauge cluster(!!!11). Ended up doing it myself for free. :3

Posted
Electrical stuff is a PITA for sure. Anything involving the interior is high in labor costs. I remember the dealer wanting to charge me over $200 to change a light bulb in my gauge cluster(!!!11). Ended up doing it myself for free. :3

oh dear lord dont tell me! this weekend, i wanted to move some of my gauges (i have aftermarket Oil Press/Temp/Volts under the dash)O and i wanted them in the instrument panel, so i had to pull out the instrument panel, and i thought "i have a few bulbs out, ill replace them" kill 2 birds with one stone!..., ugh

i had to drop the column and pull the steering wheel, and practice some yoga to remove all the screws and wires to get it out.... i dont even WANNA know what a new car would be like!

wiring SUCKS! but at least my guages look good in the AC vent block off plate :AH-HA_wink:

Posted
oh dear lord dont tell me! this weekend, i wanted to move some of my gauges (i have aftermarket Oil Press/Temp/Volts under the dash)O and i wanted them in the instrument panel, so i had to pull out the instrument panel, and i thought "i have a few bulbs out, ill replace them" kill 2 birds with one stone!..., ugh

i had to drop the column and pull the steering wheel, and practice some yoga to remove all the screws and wires to get it out.... i dont even WANNA know what a new car would be like!

wiring SUCKS! but at least my guages look good in the AC vent block off plate :AH-HA_wink:

It gets worse as they get newer. Because of this need to hide any visible screws because screws = bad, everything fits together in a jig-saw kind of way. So you have to take literally half of the dash and part of the center stack/console apart to get at them. At least it has tilt steering. Today I helped my friend change the gauge cluster in his Corolla because his speedo crapped out. With no tilt steering it takes patience and a small miracle to get it out of the dash, even though the actual process isn't too hard, getting it around the steering column and gauge shroud is a pain in the butt.

Posted (edited)

Well, today I was at a buddy's and when I was backing out when I left he called me and told me that my back up lights are out. I tested at home and sure enough, my back up lights both won't come on either. So you can add that to the list of things that the gremlins have gotten to. That Cobalt lease is looking more appealing by the minute.

:banghead:

Edited by vonVeezelsnider
Posted
Well, today I was at a buddy's and when I was backing out when I left he called me and told me that my back up lights are out. I tested at home and sure enough, my back up lights both won't come on either. So you can add that to the list of things that the gremlins have gotten to. That Cobalt lease is looking more appealing by the minute.

:banghead:

When your turn signals and backup lights start to go you really have to get it fixed man. This probably won't help, because tehy are different cars, but a month or so ago I had the center stack of the Prizm out to replace something. The way it's built the Hazard and rear window defroster buttons (as well as the HVAC controls) are mounted to teh bezel not to the dash, so you have to unplug them to pull the bezel more than a couple inches away. After I was done I remounted the center stack and went to work, only to discover my turn signals didn't work at all...and neither did my hazards. On a hunch, I pulled off the bezel again and sue enough the button wasn't plugged in. When I plugged it back in everything worked fine.

This may just be useless information, but maybe there's a chance something simple like a wiring harness just came loose. Otherwise I'd say bad wires that need to be replaced.

Posted
When your turn signals and backup lights start to go you really have to get it fixed man.

Well Obviously... I wouldn't be very safe or conscious if i didn't now would I?

:smilewide:

Posted

The Beast's left turn signals stopped flashing, they just light up steadily, but the hazards and right side work fine.

I tell you... Your Cavalier... My Cutlass... That cliff... *nods* Just give in. We'll have a wonderful show. We can invite people from all to watch and make money from it, too. :P

Posted
Hate to break it to you, but it seems they might just want your wife and the dog as well! j/k :smilewide:

You know, that might NOT be too bad a deal. Just try to convince them to let you keep the dog. :P

Posted

BV, I may yet give it a Viking Funeral :P

BTW now the Brake Lights won't Work. So I'm not driving it until it's fixed. My mom's on a short sabbatical so I can borrow the Maxx in the meantime.

Posted (edited)

Haha, this just keeps getting better.

Took it to a dealer where the service department is open on Saturdays. They said my left front Blinker Bulbs (cornering lamp) was burnt out, which is strange because I've replaced that same bulb once already not two months ago. The one on the right side is the original bulb. This time, however, it wasn't the bulb only. They said the bulb along with the socket and all the good stuff that powers that bulb was "fried" (read shorted out, cooked like a thanksgiving turkey) They, surprise surprise, suspect a short did it just like they suspect other shorts all over the car are frying out electronics and electrical systems. So they couldn't fix everything today. They didn't even get a chance to look at my reverse lights and brake lights only to tell me that the bulbs were fine.

Oh, and by the way, on the way home my engine started making this loud squeaky squealing noise from the engine compartment that can be heard from inside the car. So there's a bearing or a belt that needs to be replaced.

Edited by vonVeezelsnider
Posted
I don't think even 1980s British Leyland or Fiat could produce a car with that many electrical gremlins.

Don't underestimate the gross ineptitude of crappy Italian & British cars!

Posted (edited)

Ok, Veezel, meet me at the U.S.-Canadian border in Michigan. I will bring about two-hundred and fifty pounds of high powered explosives and a case of pre-popped Movie Butter popcorn. All you have to bring is the car and a lawn chair, maybe a case of beer and a disposable camera, and you will have a show to remember! j/k :smilewide:

I believe that Cobalt is looking better all the time, hmm?

Edited by YellowJacket894
Posted
I know of some dandy cliffs with 100 foot drop offs. :P

Hmm ... maybe we should load the car up with my explosives and blow it up as it goes nose first off of your dandy cliffs. :scratchchin:

Okay, let's change that meeting spot to PA! Sorry if the trip seems a little long, Veezel. :P

Posted
Hmm ... maybe we should load the car up with my explosives and blow it up as it goes nose first off of your dandy cliffs. :scratchchin:

Okay, let's change that meeting spot to PA! Sorry if the trip seems a little long, Veezel. :P

Damn you beat me to that suggestion! :P

Von, dude that's some insane electrical gremlins you have, not even the Shadow had anywhere near that many problems! Just out of curiosity, how much have you had to spend thus far on these repairs?

I'm gonna guess the squeaking is a belt, unless it's a lower pitched sound that seems to "rotate" if you know what I mean. The T&C has a pulley that makes some noise and it's nowhere near as loud as a worn belt.

Posted

Well, DF, In The Last Three Months...

Radio (Installed) 225$

Bulb and Inspection (Twice) 90$

Water Pump + Labor - 538$

Electrical Fault Inspection 135$

ABS Sensor (Shorted Out) 635$

Instrument Inspection (64$)

I've paid 1687$ In the Last Three Months

FOUND BUT NOT FIXED

Instrument Panel Circuit Board (Fried) Would Have Cost 775$

Fault in Wiper Control Arm Would Have Cost 325$ I believe

Plus About 1100$ in Repairs that are Non-Essential and were not done.

Posted

Well Joy of Joys... it's now leaking Either Brake Fluid or Gasoline. Big 2 Foot stain under the rear of the car. Fluid appears to be clear, I'm not sure what it is.

Posted (edited)

Well, after careful examination...

It's coming out of the forward facing end of the muffler. It's not water though. The leaking fluid is slippery between fingers so it has a pH that is higher than 9 or so. It smells like gas sorta... but I'm going to have it towed to the dealer because Flammable Fluid + Muffler = A Really Hot Seat.

I took some pictures, so you be the judge:

IMG_1136.jpg

IMG_1137.jpg

IMG_1140.jpg

IMG_1141.jpg

IMG_1138.jpg

So far today it's made about three slicks that big since I've been moving the car around the block to test the brakes, but it also made a huge slick about a foot wide and four feet long.

Edited by vonVeezelsnider
Posted

That sucks how much money you've poured into it already and these problems continue to crop up. Although I must say it makes me feel better about spending $700 on my car to have the timing chains replaced.

Posted
Well, DF, In The Last Three Months...

Radio (Installed) 225$

Bulb and Inspection (Twice) 90$

Water Pump + Labor - 538$

Electrical Fault Inspection 135$

ABS Sensor (Shorted Out) 635$

Instrument Inspection (64$)

I've paid 1687$ In the Last Three Months

FOUND BUT NOT FIXED

Instrument Panel Circuit Board (Fried) Would Have Cost 775$

Fault in Wiper Control Arm Would Have Cost 325$ I believe

Plus About 1100$ in Repairs that are Non-Essential and were not done.

...And I thought the Cutlass was bad. You need to trash that car. It's not worth it.

Posted

That may yet happen, my parents have to be convinced though.

I went to my dealer's website yesterday though. I Could have a 2007 Cobalt LT Sedan in Ultra Silver, with 7500Km for 11995$ if we got rid of it. The one thing that surprised me was that V6 G6s were going for 12995 with decent mileage. The Cobalt with 7500Km is going for 1000 more than the higher mileage ones, so I'd be hard to sway my parents to believe it's a good idea for them and me (they need a car for my brother in a few years so they said they'd almost completely cover the payments, lucky me- I don't deserve them) to spend another thousand for a bigger V6 car with electric steering (although the Cobalt has that too). I'd have to drive both of them though.

Posted

If I told you there is a good chance you will have to drop 3 grand (US) into the Cav, THEN would your parents get rid of it?

I've watching this from afar, and what I'll tell you is not good: Canada is killing your Cav. :( (winter is trying to finish it)

A strong feeling is that your car is suffering some serious rot underneath....

I'd be willing to bet my car that most of your problems are under your car

How can I tell?

Water/salt has entered your wire(s)....causing those issues....

Gas leak=Your fuel line is rusting/rotting away......

And your bearings are probably on their way out too......betting the front ones.....

It sounds like things are coming apart underneath.....

And since it is starting to get to stuff-chances are things are only going to get worse....

I normally don't like to say stuff like this- But dump that J body soon......

I know what will happen-and it is not pretty.

I'm sorry Veez, she's gotta go....otherwise I'de be worried about your safety......

Posted
That may yet happen, my parents have to be convinced though.

I went to my dealer's website yesterday though. I Could have a 2007 Cobalt LT Sedan in Ultra Silver, with 7500Km for 11995$ if we got rid of it. The one thing that surprised me was that V6 G6s were going for 12995 with decent mileage. The Cobalt with 7500Km is going for 1000 more than the higher mileage ones, so I'd be hard to sway my parents to believe it's a good idea for them and me (they need a car for my brother in a few years so they said they'd almost completely cover the payments, lucky me- I don't deserve them) to spend another thousand for a bigger V6 car with electric steering (although the Cobalt has that too). I'd have to drive both of them though.

Get the Cobalt-more fun to drive-better on gas- easier to sell when you get your Impy.... :yes:

Posted

You really think It's rotting underneath? You know, that was my absolute first thought months ago... but my dad was like BLAH BLAH, I was undercoated when it was still new, it's still good now (:huh:). I didn't buy it. An Undercoat lasting 12 Years? I doubt it. He caught me rinsing the salt out from underneath a few months ago like a conscientious car owner and told me it wasn't necessary, :rolleyes:. When I told my mom what he said, she laughed her ass off because she agrees with your diagnosis 100% (I showed it to her). Apparently my dad hasn't lived on the east coast like my mom has.

But you've got me thinking. I'm going to rinse it out underneath at one of those coin op joints and get some pics of the under body (if I ever get it back), it's being towed to the dealer tomorrow.

Dave, btw, there are other rust spots. Lots of rust bubbling underneath the gas filler door, behind the front passenger door handle, and a small spot on the roof. There is also a rather severe ring of rust around the plastic fuel filler socket thingy (whatever it's actually called escapes me momentarily).

One thing's for sure, that Impala is getting undercoated every three years. Full underbody wash every three weeks during the winter, and when I turn 25 and my insurance goes down, it will So be garaged in the winter while an off lease Invicta, Aura or Malibu does the dirty work.

Posted
You really think It's rotting underneath? You know, that was my absolute first thought months ago... but my dad was like BLAH BLAH, I was undercoated when it was still new, it's still good now (:huh:). I didn't buy it. An Undercoat lasting 12 Years? I doubt it. He caught me rinsing the salt out from underneath a few months ago like a conscientious car owner and told me it wasn't necessary, :rolleyes:. When I told my mom what he said, she laughed her ass off because she agrees with your diagnosis 100% (I showed it to her). Apparently my dad hasn't lived on the east coast like my mom has.

But you've got me thinking. I'm going to rinse it out underneath at one of those coin op joints and get some pics of the under body (if I ever get it back), it's being towed to the dealer tomorrow.

Dave, btw, there are other rust spots. Lots of rust bubbling underneath the gas filler door, behind the front passenger door handle, and a small spot on the roof. There is also a rather severe ring of rust around the plastic fuel filler socket thingy (whatever it's actually called escapes me momentarily).

One thing's for sure, that Impala is getting undercoated every three years. Full underbody wash every three weeks during the winter, and when I turn 25 and my insurance goes down, it will So be garaged in the winter while an off lease Invicta, Aura or Malibu does the dirty work.

If it is rusting out in those spots there..you don't want to see what is underneath.....

And undercoating will not last 12 years.....in California, maybe.

In places with hard winters (Canada, Michigan), it would be lucky to last 10 years...salt will eat that away......

Posted

Well I got it back. 200$ to replace a wiring box which was hosed, and there was a small crack in the fuel line that was fixed as well. So even though everything is working now, My parents are still considering turfing it. If the Cobalt's we're looking at have ABS, it's pretty much a slam dunk. If no ABS, I might get a G6 V6, or we might just keep it.

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