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Posted (edited)

Not without adequate proof and a lawyer. Get several estimates of what it will cost to fix before you try to argue about anything being totaled.

How do I get estimates if the car is stuck in the tow yard? Will bringing photos like what I took into a body shop be any good? Or can I do it after they have looked at the car and say it's totaled, but tell them I want estimates first before settling?

Edited by Dodgefan
Posted

First, find out if they tell you it's totaled or not. Don't settle with them before you get the car back. If they do tell you it's totaled, get the car back and tell them you are going to shop around before you decide to settle or not. Once you have a few estimates in your hand, use them as bargaining tools to try to get more money out of the insurance company. When you are at the body shops, find out if it is just the sheetmetal on the trunk that was damaged or if the unibody itself was damaged too. If the consensus among the body shops is the unibody itself is damaged, kiss the car goodbye because it will be unsafe to drive and will only give you suspension and alignment problems down the road. If the unibody is fine, the trunk can usually be jacked/pulled/hammered back into shape. I've done it on a few cars and can tell you it's not that difficult, just labor intensive.

Even if they do tell you the car is totaled, it's not the end of the world if you plan on keeping the car and driving it around some more. With the cars age and mileage, a salvage title isn't going to do a whole lot to the resale value anyway.

Thanks, that helps clear things up some. My other question is though...how do I get it out of there? If it's not settled will they still pay for the tow and the time that it spent at the yard? I can have AAA take it out of there...get this: this damn tow place has a AAA truck...if only the asshole cop would have just let me use my membership for the very company they made tow it...damn cops.

I have liek squat for money...which is why getting the car out of there with them paying for it is such a big deal.

Posted

Avenger...as bad as most people may think it is...it's probably way better than the Malibu....but if I get the Malibu it's something new at least!

*chuckles*

Not sure I'd go so far as to say "way better" ... but, at least the Avenger isn't using an old name and pretending to be something it isn't ;).

BUT ... sounds as if that isn't going to be an issue ... Cobalt or Neon ... Cobalt, most definitely, would be my choice ;).

As for finding fault ... good night shirt tail ... what do they need? A Supreme Court declaration? How could the other driver NOT be at fault?

Maybe I better not ask that question, eh?

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I should ask, but I won't" ... Rebecca Lynn Howard ... 'Forgive'

Posted (edited)

*chuckles*

Not sure I'd go so far as to say "way better" ... but, at least the Avenger isn't using an old name and pretending to be something it isn't ;).

BUT ... sounds as if that isn't going to be an issue ... Cobalt or Neon ... Cobalt, most definitely, would be my choice ;).

As for finding fault ... good night shirt tail ... what do they need? A Supreme Court declaration? How could the other driver NOT be at fault?

Maybe I better not ask that question, eh?

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I should ask, but I won't" ... Rebecca Lynn Howard ... 'Forgive'

Yeah, you'd think this would be an open and shut case...it's not that difficult. The moron didn't slow down enough, slammed into my car which was stopped at the time while waiting for the rotary to clear, and broke the seat recliner in the process.

I drove a Neon once, it's not bad but the Cobalt would be something new to me...I just don't know f they have one in stock and if it's in the same "class" Get this: Neon is an economy car but a $h!fire is an intermediate (one class up)....I'd rather have any Neon than a $h!fire or Crapalier.

after seeing those pics, I'm just glad you are ok.

What about getting another Prizm?

Yeah, me too...the neck pain is less today...so it's getting better. As for replacing it with a different one...I think if we had to replace it it would be with something different...for teh sake of something new...but then again I dunno...it's Jessica's choice since the car is here's...but I know she like T-top Camaros :AH-HA_wink:

Heck, down the line I've already said I want a Camaro...so one way or another I think we'll end up with one!

About why we want the Prizm back so much...I've basically said it already...but the car is worth more than the sum of it's parts. Lots of memories, for the most part dependable...always there when it was needed most...I just seems cruel to give up on it...especially if the unibody is fine.

I'm not the kind of person who can just change cars as much as he changes socks...I get attached to them...they are special and not something I would want to part with...part of the reason why we still have the Shadow. (By the way, it's at 212k right now...I used it for work today). Some people may not get it, and I'm not surprised, but that's just how I feel and Jessica feels the same way (it is her first car). We'll see what happens.

Edited by Dodgefan
Posted

This reminds me of when my wife was rear ended in our Safari van by a semi. Insurance paid for the substantial repairs and were very happy just getting the thing settled.

Good luck, my friend. Let us know how it comes out.

Chris

Posted

Yeah, you'd think this would be an open and shut case...it's not that difficult. The moron didn't slow down enough, slammed into my car which was stopped at the time while waiting for the rotary to clear, and broke the seat recliner in the process.

Ahhh...but, see ... that's the problem. We're being too ... logical ... heh.

Irony rocks.

I'm not the kind of person who can just change cars as much as he changes socks...I get attached to them...they are special and not something I would want to part with...

*nods*

I know ... exactly ... what you mean..... I'm the same way.

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I don't need to be" ... Stone Sour ... 'Bother'

Posted

Indeed, get the car out of the yard by any means possible

The best thing to happen out of the whole Progressive ordeal was hours after my car was totalled. Some guy from their yard in Tampa called to ask if I wanted to car towed back to me. Uh. Yes. Because the left hand had no clue how disorganized the right hand ones, I had them by the balls the whole time. I signed no paperwork saying I was going to keep the car at that point or anything for that matter, but I had my car.

The best part was the whole two weeks or so it took to sort it out, they still thought my car was in their possession. On the last day, some regional director confirmed all the paperwork (namely, a salvage title NOT a certificate of destruction) and asked if I'd be home that evening for them to deliver my car back to me. I chuckled and told her I already had the car. "Oh...you do?" she asked incredulously. Yeah, I said. When did I get it back, she asked. Four hours after you told me it was totalled two and a half weeks ago. P-A-U-S-E. I hope someone got fired over it, preferrably my crap-for-brains claims adjustor.

But yes, get the car into your possession.

Posted

Indeed, get the car out of the yard by any means possible

The best thing to happen out of the whole Progressive ordeal was hours after my car was totalled. Some guy from their yard in Tampa called to ask if I wanted to car towed back to me. Uh. Yes. Because the left hand had no clue how disorganized the right hand ones, I had them by the balls the whole time. I signed no paperwork saying I was going to keep the car at that point or anything for that matter, but I had my car.

The best part was the whole two weeks or so it took to sort it out, they still thought my car was in their possession. On the last day, some regional director confirmed all the paperwork (namely, a salvage title NOT a certificate of destruction) and asked if I'd be home that evening for them to deliver my car back to me. I chuckled and told her I already had the car. "Oh...you do?" she asked incredulously. Yeah, I said. When did I get it back, she asked. Four hours after you told me it was totalled two and a half weeks ago. P-A-U-S-E. I hope someone got fired over it, preferrably my crap-for-brains claims adjustor.

But yes, get the car into your possession.

Now that was great..... :thumbsup:

Posted (edited)

From what I understand, here in PA, AAA does not always pay for accident tows, only mechanical breakdowns. Not sure about MA. My advice would be to settle and let the car go. Where are you going to park a totalled Prizm, and what are you going to do with it?

When a car is totalled here in PA, the insurance company purchases the car from the owner for retail value and receives the title. That is why they take the car, it's theirs. It is then sold for parts to a junkyard. The insurance company doesn't sell the parts at a profit, they sell the whole car to the yard for a salvage value, which is much lower than retail.

Insurance companies would go broke if they took some people's emotions into account. If the car is totalled, let it go and move on. I apologize for being so blunt, but dragging your feet after you hear from them won't necessarily be good for you in the end. Right now, storage charges at the tow yard may be accruing. No one wants to let this go on longer than necessary, because every day this goes unsettled it is costing more.

One reason why liability has not been settled is the insurance company may not have taken an official statement from you or the truck driver... or they may be waiting for the police report or other official paperwork. It should be simple to assign liability once the paperwork is in to them. I would take the rental because it is clear they were at fault, they just need to get all the information they need. It is not always the insurance company's fault when things take longer than we want. Believe me, we've had cars, totalled and not totalled, sit on our lot for weeks waiting for the insurance company to evaluate them, and the delay is usually because one of the drivers hasn't gotten back to them, or the police agency is working at a snail's pace.

I don't mean to sound like I am 100% for the insurance companies, I'm not. They each have so many rules and idiosyncracies for the way they want their estimates written it is unreal. Our shop has Direct Repair contracts with 13 different companies, and it is hard to keep everything straight as far as their procedures go. Some of them I do not agree with.

Good luck in a speedy resolution, Dodgefan.

Edited by ocnblu
Posted

Dude, take people's advice... esp. someone like O.B. who is in

the field and KNOWs what he's talking about.

Take the money and walk away from the Prizm.

I can understand getting attached but dude, it's a GEO PRIZM.

You're "DodgeFan" if it was one of your 'Cudas or even if it was

some scummy 1973 Dodge Polara ex-cop car with 367K miles I

would grab a pitch fork and go to the insurance company with

you but it is an absolute "disposable camera" of cars. You can

find/buy another Prizm like it in a heartbeat.

To fix your car right, it's NOT worth it, it really isn't and you can

not fault the company for that. Now as far as buiying it back &

parting it out THAT would SHOULD be able to do...

I know what it's like to put your blood & sweat into a car & have

it destroyed by some jackass... it's happened more than once.

Best of luck dude, I say get yourself a '95-ish Stratus or Cirrus.

and call it a day.

Posted

First of all, sorry about the accident.

Second of all, listen to 68 and 'blu. Ask yourself if its worth it, I mean really worth all of the hassle and expense. The memories will still be there even if the car isnt.

Posted

Indeed, get the car out of the yard by any means possible

-------------------------------------------------------------------

But yes, get the car into your possession.

I'm with Fly... get that thing the hell out of there and parted out for some extra coin if you can. When granddad's Windstar was hit, the insurance company just told 'em that the Calgary PD would sell it at auction if they didn't want it to part it out. He didn't want to go though the trouble of having it parted out because he was in the lawsuit over the accident already and was certain he'd get money out of that. My suspicion is that the frame might be bent so maybe it is a better idea to walk away. My aunt's V70XC was in a serious accident that wrote it off, she had it fixed like Fly did his Aurora, but driving in it before and after, the thing was uneven, miscalibrated, and just not the same.

Posted

I suppose the real question is whether one not the frame is bet...if it is than it is indeed a gonner, but if it's not it may be repairable. First thing's first: getting it home.

Posted

Unibody "frames" are never the same if not repaired with the high end bodyshops.

Repairing a car with unibody damage must be VERY complex, think about it, the

hard points for the suspension, and all related components all bolt up directly to

the unibody & as such if the car is off by 0.1" it will never be the same. Today's

unobody cars (esp. Toyotas) have sheet metal 'bout as thick as a Diet Pepsi can.

Posted

Unibody "frames" are never the same if not repaired with the high end bodyshops.

Repairing a car with unibody damage must be VERY complex, think about it, the

hard points for the suspension, and all related components all bolt up directly to

the unibody & as such if the car is off by 0.1" it will never be the same. Today's

unobody cars (esp. Toyotas) have sheet metal 'bout as thick as a Diet Pepsi can.

I'm contesting this based on grounds of 'cause I feel like it. It very much depends on the car. A high-strength unibody has a high tolerance of damage. I offer our Bonneville, which had moderate frame damage yet drives better with less pull than it did when it was new. A Corolla, however, is not one of them.

Dodgefan, I'm still going to PM you, but I'll just say this here, too. Your heart and emotions towards your car may be the same as mine, but the conditions surrounding the accident aren't. Remember that my 'frame damage' amounted to a 1/4" bend on a extraneous part of the frame structure caused by the headlamps bracket pushing against it. The other reasons for totally my car was Progressive's foggy-headed insistance on using only General Motors as a parts source, meaning a fender and bumper cover (which was more damaged after the ass clowns touched it) did indeed cost more than the value of the car. There was no real damage to my car. In fact, the day I got it home, I shoved the bumper they cut up into the fender and drove it 20 miles. Straight, true, no leaks, tracked perfectly. Again, no frame damage.

I don't know the extent of your damage, whether its mostly cosmetic or the frame structure was compromised. However, if it was compromised, then the car is a throwaway. Unless the car is extrodinarily rare or of such extreme value to you, I would take the money, cut your losses, and replace it with something else.

Again, the wild card is the frame damage issue. Once you find that out, you can make a better determination. On having the car in my possession, well, until you sign the paperwork, its your car and I only feel comfortable when my car is out here where I can see it.

Posted

Good advice in this thread: take it.

To properly fix a unibody car is very labor-intensive, and frankly, your car isn't worth it.

While the measurements taken when correctly repairing such a car can result in better alignment than factory simply because of the time spent on that one car (like Fly's Bonne). The factory can't spend that sort of time on any one unit, so sometimes a repaired car will be closer to ideal spec than a brand new one. However, any repair that falls short of this standard can be very,very wrong after being "fixed".

Judging by the pics you posted, repairing your car properly will far exceed its value - even if only the rear panel and floor need to be straightened/repaired. It's a parts car at best now.

Even so, get it home pronto!

Guest YellowJacket894
Posted

Camino's post just reminded me of a very serious fact: it's hard to find someone that can do any serious automotive job right anymore.

Heh ... for some reason, the intensive labor both Fly took and Dodgefan is taking to repair their respective cars reminds me a hell of a lot of an uncle of mine. He has a '99 Silverado Classic with all the bells and whistles and a maroon interior (when's the last time you saw one of those, huh?). He bought it with around ... I guess it was about 17k miles or less on the odometer, he got it here in Berea at Briton's Chevy, the previous owners run and own a local furniture store around here and they traded it in on a then new at the time GMT-800 pickup. This was November 1999. Now it's July 2007, and some 350,000 miles later, he's payed out enough money to have every little aliment fixed two times over. When the engine finally bit the dust (it didn't have to do with the engine and how it was built, no, it probably could have lasted another 200k miles, it $h! the bed because whoever performed the last tune up/inspection/oil change forgot to put new coolant in the radiator and it overheated to the point where the engine just crapped out), he had a brand new engine put in it. And he told my dad a few days ago he now has to have a new rear-end. He can pretty much get any car he wants ... so I don't know why he's sticking with that old 'Rado. Granted it has been a hell of a truck but still ...

If it was me, I would have used it as an excuse to get a healthy dose of new car smell. :P

Posted

Fly, I agree... but that's a Bonneville.

Even the FWd Bonnevilles I like to make fun of are much more

sturdy and well built cars than some economy car To-Jota.

Bonneville > Prizm.

Posted (edited)

Fly, I agree... but that's a Bonneville.

Even the FWd Bonnevilles I like to make fun of are much more

sturdy and well built cars than some economy car To-Jota.

Bonneville > Prizm.

Dude, no offense but what you're saying now sounds more like your bias than constructive advice...I really don't want to hear about your dislike for FWD cars or Toyotas. You can word your posts in a way that's not so condescending and you know it.

Anyway...

As for the car itself, I missed the phone call from the insurance company while I was out getting the rental. They've declared it a "total loss" (no surprise) and now want to start settlement talks.

Obviously, I want the car back first before anything happens, I don't have to settle in order to get it back right?

Once it's back, I'll take it to my mechanic and the body shop he recommends and see what's what. If the frame has serious damage than whatever, I guess we'll part it out. If they can at least straighten the trunk out and make it so the tail light will fit back in and the bumper can be reattached than that'll be good enough. Whatever, like I said, we'll see. My primary concern is getting the car home (besides there's wood in the trunk I'd rather not let sit there any longer than needed).

On to some good news. They determined liability and it was (of course) the other guy's fault...so we went out to Enterprise to get a rental (which is where we were when Liberty Mutual called). The insurance only will pay for an economy car...which is like a Neon or less...yay. $h!fires and Crapaliers are a "step up" to intermediate and cost more. However, the people at Enterprise were very nice to us...so they gave us an "intermediate" car for the price of the cheapest one...so here's what I got:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

I'll take more later.

When we pulled in I saw this car and said to Jessica...that's a nice cclor, I wonder if we'll be able to get this Cobalt LT....guess so. :P

Edited by Dodgefan
Posted (edited)

That's a nice car... good thing they were nice enough to give you an intermediate... and good luck getting as much as you can in the settlement or whatever you can do to fix it!

Edited by vonVeezelsnider
Posted

Congrats on getting the Cobalt for the rental :).

As for the Prizm ... sorry it is a total loss (tho, not all that surprising) ... and good luck with dealing with the insurance companies....

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I hope I'm a little bit stronger" ... KT Oslin ... 'Come Next Monday'

Posted

DodgeF:

Not trying to be harsh, sorry.

It just seems as if you're WAY too attached to the Prizm.

It's not a 1996 Supra Twin Turbo T-top...

Posted

::Update::

Well we finally have the car back...it's currently sitting in the Broadway Tire parking lot. Maybe I'll swing by for more photos before teh sun goes down...if not then tomorrow.

Getting it there was the fun part...

Well first I had work today, then I had to go get the Intrepid's oil changed. When I got home I gave Enterprise a call confirming that Liberty Mutual would pay for collision and the full cost of the rental at no cost to me...so that's one less thing we need to spend money on. Then I called AAA to set up a tow out of the yard, which would be done by the very people. I drove down to the tow place to confirm it all. Then the fun begins. The person there says that he needs the money before it can leave, and the insurance hasn't paid for it...he said they usually reimburse. So I had to call them, waisting cell phone minutes, to figure this all out. Basically the guy said I can either pay for the expenses and they'll reimburse me in the sttlement (meaning I have to settle to get it back) or they'll have a salvage yard take it and I'll have to deal with that place...

Obviously, it's not going to a junkyard...f@#k that. I have like 40 bucks on me, so I have to call Jessica to come down and bring the cash we have and pay the rest with my in-the-hole debit card....total cost was $245 bucks...lovely.

This is beautiful because in 3 days our car insurance will pull out another $400 dollars...there's no getting ahead.

--

On to some better-ish news...Nothing was taken out of teh car or the trunk...so that's good...we took it all out after it got to the shop. The car still starts right up and runs fine. There's no leaks and the gas tank wasn't damaged. As far as I can tell it's driveable.

Also, the Cobalt is doing fine.

--

More bad stuff...there's already surface rust where the paint came off...niot that it matters on the trunk, but there's some on teh quarter panel...2 days of rain will do that I guess...but at least nothing in the trunk got wet.

--

Tomorrow I'll be up bright and early to go to Broadway Tire to see the car get looked at...and we'll go from there.

The insurance Company estimated that the damage to the car was $3,606.81...they're still determining the value of the car...

I've asked this before and to the best of my recollection no one has answered it yet: can I dispute the value of the car or what I should get for it? Say they value you it at $1,000...can I argue that I should get at least $1,600, because I've seen the exact same car for $1,600? There's one on craigslist...same color, 5-speed and all for that price...I printed it out...also auto.consumerguide values it at about $2,000 or so. Can I dispute it or am I stuck with what they give me?

--

Sitxy8:

I don't expect you to understand, I mean you go through cars like people change their socks...I don't. That being said, just ease up on the "I hate Toyota, Japanese cars (except I own Nissans), FWD, Transverse motors, and so on...I really don't want to hear that crap in this thread...not in the mood for it. Mmk? Mmk.

Posted (edited)

You spent $245 to get the car out of the tow yard? For what? $3600 is probably twice what the car is worth, and that price sounds like they used junkyard parts to try to save it. What if Liberty Mutual doesn't pay that money back to you? They surely would have paid it to the yard to get the car out of there and take it away. All you've done is delay your settlement by making them chase the car around.

Go to NADA.com, Kelly Blue Book, etc., to get an idea of what it might be worth. NADA is the site the insurance companies ask us to use to make a quick reference on value if the car is near a total. Click on the "consumer" button and punch in the car's info.

EDIT: I just went to check at NADA, and I was right on the money if the car is a '92 with 175k miles. "Clean Retail Value: $1800."

Edited by ocnblu
Posted (edited)

You spent $245 to get the car out of the tow yard? For what? $3600 is probably twice what the car is worth, and that price sounds like they used junkyard parts to try to save it. What if Liberty Mutual doesn't pay that money back to you? They surely would have paid it to the yard to get the car out of there and take it away. All you've done is delay your settlement by making them chase the car around.

Go to NADA.com, Kelly Blue Book, etc., to get an idea of what it might be worth. NADA is the site the insurance companies ask us to use to make a quick reference on value if the car is near a total. Click on the "consumer" button and punch in the car's info.

EDIT: I just went to check at NADA, and I was right on the money if the car is a '92 with 175k miles. "Clean Retail Value: $1800."

Well first, it's a `94...it's generation was introduced in `93.

According to NADA, a `94 Geo Prizm is valued at $1,550 as low retail, and $2,325 as clean retail with 175,000 miles on it, like ours has. From what I've red about the clean title, it should fall under that category, because everything worked on it, it had no rust, and the paint was in good shape overall.

As for why we paid $245 to get it out of there...what choice did we have? If it stayed in the yard any longer than today the insurance company would not cover for the storage fees...so it meant 20 bucks every day starting tomorrow. The alternative was to let a salavage yard take it and let me deal with them from there...do you think I want to deal with another place and another mess? The insurance company clearly stated that they would only cover the towing fee, other fees and storage fees until today...after that it was up to us to pay for storage. Plus, I don't see how this would delay the settlement...they don't need to chase the car around because 1.) They know where it is, and 2.) They've already looked at it...the total department just needs to determine it's value.

Thanks for the NADA link, that was quite helpful.

Edited by Dodgefan
Posted

Tomorrow I'll be up bright and early to go to Broadway Tire to see the car get looked at...and we'll go from there.

The insurance Company estimated that the damage to the car was $3,606.81...they're still determining the value of the car...

I've asked this before and to the best of my recollection no one has answered it yet: can I dispute the value of the car or what I should get for it? Say they value you it at $1,000...can I argue that I should get at least $1,600, because I've seen the exact same car for $1,600? There's one on craigslist...same color, 5-speed and all for that price...I printed it out...also auto.consumerguide values it at about $2,000 or so. Can I dispute it or am I stuck with what they give me?

I saw this question before, DF, but didn't answer ... because I don't have any personal experience with this type of thing (yet, anyway) ... BUT... from what I've seen and read and heard from others that have experienced something similar to this, the answer is ... yes you can.

In fact ... I know others from several of my MC boards have fought and WON a better value for their MCs ... based on market value (i.e. Craig's List, AutoTrader, etc. ads) and receipts of what all they had done to their car. Granted, it's a bit different for your Prizm, but the idea is the same. The more "ammunition" you have ... the better the fight for you.... If that makes sense.....

GOOD LUCK!

Oh ... and, I completely understand about being sentimental about a car. Been there, done that way too many times of my own ... he he.

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"Maybe things could work out right" ... Johnny Hates Jazz ... 'Shattered Dreams'

Posted

I saw this question before, DF, but didn't answer ... because I don't have any personal experience with this type of thing (yet, anyway) ... BUT... from what I've seen and read and heard from others that have experienced something similar to this, the answer is ... yes you can.

In fact ... I know others from several of my MC boards have fought and WON a better value for their MCs ... based on market value (i.e. Craig's List, AutoTrader, etc. ads) and receipts of what all they had done to their car. Granted, it's a bit different for your Prizm, but the idea is the same. The more "ammunition" you have ... the better the fight for you.... If that makes sense.....

GOOD LUCK!

Oh ... and, I completely understand about being sentimental about a car. Been there, done that way too many times of my own ... he he.

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"Maybe things could work out right" ... Johnny Hates Jazz ... 'Shattered Dreams'

Thanks knightfan, it's appreciated :)

Posted

In fact ... I know others from several of my MC boards have fought and WON a better value for their MCs ... based on market value (i.e. Craig's List, AutoTrader, etc. ads) and receipts of what all they had done to their car. Granted, it's a bit different for your Prizm, but the idea is the same. The more "ammunition" you have ... the better the fight for you.... If that makes sense.....

I will say with all due respect to Dodgefan, a Prizm/Corolla is not in the same league of a vintage Monte Carlo in that guides like KBB do not take the collectable aspect of such a car into account. A Prizm - no matter the year, condition, or rarity - will never have that level of collectability.

Right now, you don't know what their assesed value is. Wait on that.

Posted

I will say with all due respect to Dodgefan, a Prizm/Corolla is not in the same league of a vintage Monte Carlo in that guides like KBB do not take the collectable aspect of such a car into account. A Prizm - no matter the year, condition, or rarity - will never have that level of collectability.

Right now, you don't know what their assessed value is. Wait on that.

Well I know that, it isn't exactly a collector's item that fetches butt loads of money on ebay and draws stares wherever it goes :P I just want to get what the car is actually worth, and not be ripped off by it...we'll see when I get the price in the next day or so if they're going to be nice or be cheap f***ers.

Posted
Dodgefan, I should have remembered by the pictures it was a newer car. Hopefully you'll get somewhere around that figure you posted, would you be satisfied with that? Also, I don't understand why Liberty Mutual would cut off paying for the storage fees, after all, it was their driver who caused the accident and put the car in there, and it is on them to come up with a settlement in a timely manner after liability is established. Now that the car is out of the tow yard and not accruing storage fees, do you think that'll make them move faster or slower in settling with you? Again, good luck for a quick resolution.
Posted

Dodgefan, I should have remembered by the pictures it was a newer car. Hopefully you'll get somewhere around that figure you posted, would you be satisfied with that? Also, I don't understand why Liberty Mutual would cut off paying for the storage fees, after all, it was their driver who caused the accident and put the car in there, and it is on them to come up with a settlement in a timely manner after liability is established. Now that the car is out of the tow yard and not accruing storage fees, do you think that'll make them move faster or slower in settling with you? Again, good luck for a quick resolution.

If I can get the clean retail value of the car I'd be reasonably happy with that. I don't know why they wouldn't pay for extra storage besides that, insurance company = @$$h0le.

They said that the total department would be calling me today or tomorrow with a settlement figure...If they don't call today I'll call tomorrow. After I'm done eating I', going to the mechanic to see what he think of it...and see if we can go to the body shop.

Posted (edited)

Well I've got lots to say but I'll leave that for later.

Not all hope is lost, we'll say that...not by a long shot. Also, It drives like it was never hit, and it's plenty quick enough to make the Cobalt work to keep up with it. :P

Edited by Dodgefan
Posted

Thanks knightfan, it's appreciated :)

*nods*

You are welcome ... just hope it was helpful for you.

As Fly noted ... and as I tried to elude to ... it is a bit different for your Prizm, particularly in the "collectability" factor. BUT ... the concept and the preparation are virtually similar.... Just gotta do your homework to get a good outcome :).

Cort:33swm."Mr Monte Carlo.Mr Road Trip".pig valve.pacemaker

WRMNshowcase.lego.HO.model.MCs.RT.CHD = http://www.chevyasylum.com/cort

"I am tempted to keep the car in drive and leave it all behind" ... John Mayer ... 'Why Georgia Why'

Posted (edited)

Well I guess I'll post the rest of the story thus far.

Our mechanic looked at the car and said nothing mechanically was damaged and neither was the frame...the damage is all above the frame rails.

He recommended to us a body shop down the road...so we got in the crap, me in back to hold the driver's seat up for Jessica....yeah that thing's f@#ked...but we have teh old seats so I can temporarily bolt the old one in, and fix or swap parts out to make the nicer one work again.

It drove fine, started right up, drove straight, A/C worked, and no strange noises.

We got to the shop where the owner greeted us...after we went in to the shop because there's no "door" to the office....you have to go into the bay. He was very nice and understanding, and he also gave us a lot of options for how to go about fixing the car. He looked at it, and said it was all "cosmetic" damage...nothing important like the frame was hit. He said that it would cost about $300 to straighten it out so the trunk would fit and not leak water. If we wanted we could stop there, throw a bumper and trunk on it and call it a day, or we can go to the next step which is making it look pretty and straight.

The final step would be painting, which he advised having Maaco do it, because it would cost less for them to paint the whole car than for him to paint the damaged area...because they buy in bulk so it costs less for them...plus red is apparently expensive. I could also paint the area myself if I wanted, or have him do it anyway.

So we've got lots of options basically, I just need to get the settlement so I can begin. Then track down a bumper, tail light, and trunk from a junkyard. He said he's got a car in there until Tuesday, with similar damage as it happens, but after that he's free.

--

It's been 2 days and I haven't got a phone call yet with numbers for the car's value...I'm calling when they open today at 9am and find out what's taking so long. I'm also getting pries together so I get the value of the car, not half of what it's worth...they aren't screwing me out of the money I deserve...it's their client's fault this mess happened in the first place.

Oh yeah, the shop owner suggested I find 5 cars Prizms for sale of the same year and similar mileage for a price close to teh NADA value...not a problem...I found a few LSi models more than that cost of the LSi price on NADA...yet they had less features than ours. I'm confused if ours is an LSi or not...I don't get how the rim level works. You can have an LSi buts till have teh base engine, seats, and no cruise or tach. Ours has cruise, and well...now anyway, it has the upgraded seats. The Title says "PRIZML" So I wonder if the "L" is for LSi...her insurance in KS would have it say LSi on the paperwork.

Edited by Dodgefan

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